Clarence H Dupuis Jr

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  • August 8, 2011 at 11:33 pm #32202

    Welcome to our forum: I have been restoring cars most of my life and would be happy to walk you threw it the first time.Bud! As you probably all ready have surmized the finish is the most important step to any project.so it must be done right for that show room appearance,OK? OK,you have small chips and light scratches in the finish. Your going to need a few products before you get started.You will need a can of putty coat,some OEM primer sealer,spray bomb cans will work,and some sand paper/wet or dry paper. OK,and the paper is called Wet or Dry sanding paper. OK,remove all the emblems to be protected or tape them off so not to damage the chrome finish. Then you can start sanding wet with 220 and scuff all areas to be repainted. Then put down a light to medium coat of primer or primer sealer (medium grey only). Let dry thouroughly and lightly wet sand with 400grit paper and rinse off with plain water. Let it dry and mix up your putty coat and apply directly to the areas where you see chips or scratches,let that dry for about 30 to 40 minutes and then test it with your finger nail,by tapping on it.If no marks are left in it then it’s ready to sand on. When dry you can wet sand it down with soft sanding block available at your automotive paint store,for a few bucks. Anyway wet sand with 400 grt. paper all the areas you have filled with putty coat,then dry it off with a terry clothe towel.Next step is to apply your next coat of primer,a medium coat should be enough but you can add more if you can still see or feel imperfections on the surface to be painted,OK? If more had to be applied then you must sand it down again with 400 grt. then dry it off with a terry towel. When your ready pick out your paint B/C and C/C.to be used. Wet sand one final time with 600 grt. paper or 1000 grt. paper. Remember soak your paper overnight before using it.Final steps are paint preparations,and I like using 2step urathane finishes,because you can do so much more with the clear coats these days. But thats up to you what finish you choose. P/S I use a 1.7 thru 2.0 spray tip for my base coats and a 1.3 thru 1.5 for my clear coats. I hope this has helped you out and will give you the confidence you may need to complete your cool project. Be safe where your respirator and good luck,and when your finished post some pics.

    July 11, 2011 at 7:40 pm #31643

    Hi everyone,Ben is right first thing you need to get is build up of the materials then go for perfectly smooth. I would rough it with 3-M 600 wet,then then lay 3 more medium coats and keep it kinda wet by adding a bit more reducer so it will fill some of the lows and have time to flow out before it flashes. Then wait a couple of days before wet sanding with 600 again then go to 1000,and then 1500,and final out with 2000. Use a wet or dry soft sanding block for contoured areas and the solid block for all the flat areas and stay off all edges at least 1/8 of an inch. After you 2000 wet use a wool or an aggressive 3-M foam pad with a fine to medium grit compound by 3-M. Then you can work your way down to softer pads and ultra-fine polishing compounds. Remember stay off the edges!!! Good Work takes patients and the rewards are self evident. Have fun making it perfect!!