Ricky
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[b]Doghousels wrote:[/b]
[quote]Are you using the new prospector color reference system. I was told they are using this system and going away from the alternates. Not that it has anything to do with color match but what clearcoat and sealer are you using?
Have a good weekend
John[/quote]hey dog, ive been using prospector and when there is a chip ill trust it enough to skip the spray out. but ive been having problems where the prospector wont have the color chips for the alternates. they are always blendable but sometimes i dont want to blend like on a rear bumper. im new to the system and just trying to get a feel for it, but overall i like it. as for the sealer iam using an acme finish 1 sealer. my clears are crossfire 2110 and ipc21, i like them both alot.
i use a full face fresh air system when i clear and a fresh air half mask when i paint. the face mask will help. it takes some getting used to but worth it in the end. :cheer:
thanks guys. i agree it is hit or miss but it just seems like its been a miss more often. :unsure: i do go with the color chips but a few of the cars ive had does not match to the available chips. the alternate color chips are not always available which sends me on a goose hunt doing spray outs. im doing a toyota 4Q2 right now which has 10 possibilies including the std. i just made a custom formula after doing 4 spray outs already. :pcorn:
could be quite a bit of reasons. maybe it dried too quickly. did you use the correct reducer and hardener for the temperature? did you wait for the proper flash time between coats? how did it look as soon as you were done? it shouild not change very much at all from the time you applied it to the time it dries. 😉
:welc ive been around that part of the world a bit. ive been to cork, went around the ring of kerry and even kissed the blarney stone! welcome nigel!!!
I wish i was making $25 an hr. i do body work and painting. i make $15 an hr straight pay for MY family’s business. thats why i am [i]born into it[/i]. sometimes i wonder why i left my old job. 👿
[b]Born Into It wrote:[/b]
[quote]thanks bondo. :cheer: but when you double back, do you hit it with another light coat or a full wet coat? ill definitely give it a try next time i have one of those.[/quote] duh…nevermind bondo i read your post again after i replied. you just told me :blush:thanks bondo. :cheer: but when you double back, do you hit it with another light coat or a full wet coat? ill definitely give it a try next time i have one of those.
o man… hes right 😉 different bumper, body lines under the door moldings, space between the windshield and antennae. but, maybe he didnt have a pic of the original van though. sometimes i cant wait to get working on a vehicle and forget to take a before shot also. either way, the van looks great!
ive had a problem with zebra stripes a couple times. it has always been with solvent based light metallic colors. BUT, i KNOW it happened only when i laid down the clear coat(on the hood). my gun is in near perfect condition(iwata w400, 1.3), clean as a whistle :whistle: and im sure i waited long enough for the paint to dry. it got annoying and got me a little gun shy with those colors. i havent had any problems now that we switched to water, but id still like to know whats going on. anybody ever had this problem? :huh:
you showed that dent who’s boss. 👿 thats an area where i need to get it together. i cant tell what you did with the ram. are you pushing that bow back down? either way, great job, i can see how you rake it in on jobs like those. 😉
looks like i should look into getting a sun gun. thanks guys :cheer:
true…i hate having to take the car out. keep in mind i rarely have to but id rather be sure before i lay down the clear. i have been painting for about 10 mos., now. i wonder if anybody else ever has to take the car out of the booth. what do you do? have you ever used those hand held “sunlights” i think 3m makes them. or are your booth lights adequate? :unsure:
yeah most all clears and primers need activators, but not all [i]need[/i] reducers, just check the tech sheet or ask the paint store. not all solvent paint needs activator but they need to be reduced. just remember, spraying activated(2k) materials release isocyanates so use a good respirator. like ryan said forget the rattle can or youll get outlines of the repair area after you paint and clear it all. looks like crap after you put in all that work.
they probably would for a shop. but for a walk in guy i wouldnt force it. just talk to the guy who sold it to you and let him know what happened. he might give you some stuff that works, especially if you go in there a lot.