dave
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[quote=”ScottB” post=31376][quote=”R1campr” post=31369]I’ve only used HOK KK, with DBC 500,if you use that, get tech sheets online for both. Use a gun with small nozzle, like .1 or .2, I use a .1 touch up gun for bikes. I also add a little hardner to the candy if I’m going more than 3 coats, the same hardner that I’m using in the final clear.[/quote]
Why aren’t you using [color=#bb0000][size=5]DX57[/size][/color] in the DBC500 or any tricoats? Where did you read or hear to use clear activator in basecoats? If you are using a tricoat system, DX57 is specified on the TDS. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2,3 coats or more of DBC500. I don’t use a touch up gun for bikes when the whole bike’s background is candy, nor if it’s just BC/CC or any factory tricoat. Graphics yes, for a flowcoat on a small part maybe.[/quote]
DX 57 is a must,you can get away with it sometimes,but that day will come when it all goes to shit,all because of a $18 bottle of hardener you either forgot or thought wasn’t neccasary.[quote=”MoCoke” post=31716]looks like a lot of work. keep us updated[/quote]
I’ll try and start it’s own topic when I get time to upload picts,it looks worse than it is,car was a 64000 original mile survivor with only one repaint done sometime in the early 70’s according to the original owner.[quote=”statestreetautobody” post=31707]i haven’t been able to see the long term results yet but akzo apparently dropped their etch primers and have gone to the pretreatment wipes for all bare metal etching. seems pretty nice although i can see how spraying might be easier in many cases especially in tight or where there are lots of stampings in metal. if not though, there is still PPG DP although I think you can get it in a low voc formula now.
http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_369_english.pdf%5B/quote%5D
I really don’t trust the wipes on a complete(and I spray Sikkens daily @ work),I always found a good epoxy primer had good bite over a properly prepared substrate.JUst got my 1960 Impala back from the dustless blaster,uses a mix of crushed glass and water/rust inhibitor sprayed at high pressure,very happy with the outcome,$700 to do the whole car including jams.Doesn’t touch lead filler,but plastic fillers and rust is eliminated.
[URL=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/lowdeville/media/P1010004_8_zps107ac52c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/lowdeville/P1010004_8_zps107ac52c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/lowdeville/media/P1010003_11_zpsd900e171.jpg.html][IMG]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/lowdeville/P1010003_11_zpsd900e171.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s260.photobucket.com/user/lowdeville/media/P1010014_3_zps8a3daf18.jpg.html][IMG]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/lowdeville/P1010014_3_zps8a3daf18.jpg[/IMG][/URL]We switched to the flexzilla hoses as well,they last a long time,and you don’t have that coil and twist up like a regular hose.
Please post
[quote=”sbooy42″ post=25383]On average how many ounces of clear are being used per panel?
thanks[/quote]
Depends on the size of panel of course,varies between painters as well,I know I hog on the clear(unless I’m trying to match some funky factory orange peel). :whistle:What kind of paint are you using?
I’ve painted a couple “new”Camaros at the dealership with autowave base,and found you need a yellow ground coat to get the color right as it is really transparent.I always used PPG for candies and metalflakes,stocked up on dbc500 and candy toners before they were discontinued,down to enough dbc to do a bike maybe,woukld like to know of other alternatives,this “sherwill-wrinkle”planet color sounds interesting…..
[quote=”ding” post=22599]DP40 :rock[/quote]
Is DP40 still availible for sale?Cool car,you got alot of work ahead of you.
[quote=”JackMarshall” post=25178]Hi.
This is my first post here so please excuse any ignorance.
I am 22 and I would say I am also of similar experience as the guys you are employing. I have been painting full time around 4 years now.
I was taught with a SATA and I never felt in control putting the paint on, it just seemed to run.
In the end I bought a different gun, a Devilbiss Gti Pro and since then I dont remember the last time I got a run or sag.
I also found using a slightly better clear (Lechler) than previous the result was alot better.
So maybe your guys are not experience enough to be top coating or clear coating with a SATA?[/quote]
Devilbiis>sata?????? :rofl
you must not have had it set up right.thanx for the compliments :stoned
[quote=”thenextlevel” post=24955]I own a shop that does probably 50% overall paint jobs and 50% spot jobs. We have a older crossflow spray booth. I am using a Sikkens Base along with a Keystone clear. My problem is that I cannot find a painter that can paint a car without putting runs all over it. To be fair on our all overs we are not disassembling the vehicles. Mirrors and door handles usually stay on. In a previous job I managed a shop doing the same thing I am doing. I watched that painter paint probably 700 cars with very few runs. My painters have kept telling me that it’s the environment that they are painting in that is causing the problems, but I am not buying it. We have been open since August of 2011, the runs happened during the 95 degree days of summer and the cold days of winter. I am on my second painter getting ready for the third. What I am trying to figure out is if I haven’t found a skilled enough painter or if there is something that I am not providing them that is causing the problem. My painter uses 2 satajet 4000rp paint guns, not cheap. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/quote]
I purchased a 4000 brp less than a year ago for clear,I refer to it as a”runless” gun,as it lays clear down flat effortlessly,runs are a non-issue unless I rush it,which comes down to technition error.[quote=”nick@dunsdale” post=25034][quote=”thenextlevel” post=25029]I am running an economy operation. As far as paying my painters I put them on commission, the last guy would be making $20 hour if he paints 4 cars a day. I don’t have a problem paying a painter what he is worth, I am just having a problem finding someone who is worth what I am paying.[/quote]
4 cars a day should be no problem for any painter, four complete’s may be a little harder i will leave them for the experienced under 30yo old guys with loads of energy lol[/quote]
4 partial cars a day for a flat rate shop translates from anywhere from 16 hours,to 40 and up,hell 4 completes would be 100+ hours! :wak
$20 bucks an hour isn’t enough for straight time workers.