Craig Coburn
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OK – so blasting panels probably wasn’t completely worth the effort…but I did find a few rust through areas that the blaster discovered. Restorations are like that, for example, my “good” trunk lid turned out to be full of bondo and is basically junk. Had to strip and prepare the original.
I sprayed the last of the evil ProForm epoxy on the parts that won’t go on the car just to seal them up and burn the paint. Then I switched over to the new PPG DPLV – sweet mother of pearl, that makes a difference. Two full wet coats and it’s nice and shiny. Looks great, easy to work with and totally kick the crap out of what I’ve been using. :dnc :dmc So pleased with the results (just doing a panel or two at a time as it’s all I can handle.
I picked up some Norton black ice 180 for the DA and the primer and a few other things…set me back $500! Man, the good products are a bit more expensive, but I’m sure glad that I’m out of the generic lines of paint.
Another stupid question – the TDS for the epoxy says that I need a 1.4 to 1.7 tip (HVLP) to paint this stuff. My Iwata LPH400 is so equipped, but I was thinking that I’d prefer to shoot it with my Sata Jet 3000 RP 1.3. Let me know if this is stupid.
Thanks Ben…I’m blasting the parts and will be very careful of the effort put into it. I’ll buff it all with 180 then shoot it.
I know – I have a friend that’s working on a car and they mixed him up some single stage (sold him the hardener and a new gun) and sent him on his way. I checked it tonight and he had the same story – thick as heck and could get it to flow. He’s a first time painter, so he’ll have to sand it off and do it again. Nice.
So when I’m doing the real thing, what system do you recommend? I’d like to stay in one paint line from the metal up. Price isn’t a big deal – not planning on painting until next summer.
So I did change two variables: I bought a new can of the universal hardener (I know – but it’s just a little bit of this stuff) and added 10 % reducer and I changed out my fluid tip to a 1.4. Adding the 10% was like night and day for this product. It was evident even while mixing that it was significantly thinner. I sanded the block and put down two wet coats, which sprayed normally and the finish is great. I’m thinking the 1.3 tip didn’t make that much difference, but boy that reducer sure did. It’s drying more normally (it seems slower than other SS products I’ve used) and is dust free in about 40 min.
Ya – the changing product lines is so difficult for a garage guy to keep up with. The last three things I’ve painted have all gone different systems. As I’m starting to roll up some of the fabrication on my car, what would you suggest for epoxy primer? As usual, I don’t care much about price, I’m just doing one car at a time and it’s my car…so why paint it with cheap products. I’ve done this and not been very pleased. What would you use if you were doing your car again?
I’ll report back with what we discover this afternoon.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35533]From my limited use of urki its not that great of a product.You were given bad info from the store,a solid color should be reduced 10% metallic 15%.It is quite thick and slow to dry,I’m not that impressed with it.I wonder how long you waited in between coats of epoxy and how much flash did you give it?[/quote]
I was in at Off-Shore today and they didn’t know much. They took the paint back and we’re going to test it together tomorrow. I let the epoxy flash for 20 minutes and let it sit for 24 hours before top coating (with a light scuff). This, I think is OK for the ProForm stuff. Right?
I just noticed this was posted in the wrong section – could one of the Mods move it to the paint section?
OK so I’m back. Don’t know where I went for a while, just really bust. This car was driven for another year then parked for a repaint…well. one thing has lead to another and I’m completely redoing the mechanical and body. In the mean time, I’ve been working at my sheet metal shaping skills. Here’s where I got that dent to on the weekend.
Started working it back out with a plastic mallet, then I had to stud pull parts that I couldn’t access from behind.
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140614_154140_zps9110af60.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140614_154140_zps9110af60.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And pulled some more.
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140614_155822_zpsa93dbdb1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140614_155822_zpsa93dbdb1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
A lot of hammer and dolly work and planishing with a spoon. Pretty much a done with not much need for any filler.
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140615_095503_zps1e27c31e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140615_095503_zps1e27c31e.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140615_095547_zps43635bbe.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/Body_Work/IMG_20140615_095547_zps43635bbe.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I’ve also replaced some nasty speaker holes on the deck lid and I’ve stretched the rear fender wells.
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/IMG_20140602_182600_zpsf965e2ea.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/IMG_20140602_182600_zpsf965e2ea.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s862.photobucket.com/user/grpA_240/media/Volvo_122_Restoration/IMG_20140531_113038_zpsffad0355.jpg.html][IMG]http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab189/grpA_240/Volvo_122_Restoration/IMG_20140531_113038_zpsffad0355.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Painting is still a year away at least, but I’m making progress.
Thanks for the info Jim – I’ve been lurking on eBay trying to find a little of the Trizact. I’ll look for the Eagles Bufflex system a look.
I know this as I’ve used the system for a couple of years. I don’t polish a lot (cause I don’ t paint a lot) but when I do, I get unpolished areas showing up after a few weeks (couple of washes). At first all looks well (I’m quite careful with my polishing) then my imperfections show once the fillers rinse off. My way of dealing with this has been to either use an alcohol wipe or spend more time with each buff to be sure I’ve not missed anything.
I paint in my garage in the winter and I live in Canada…never had a problem. I admit that when it is really cold, putting on the big fan and exhausting the garage has caused problems. So I wait for “warmer days” and try to move fast.
HOLLY SH!T that’s awesome :cheers
Have a look here.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVN1ty4gX2A[/video]
I’ve used this on touch ups and had excellent results.
Craig
[quote=”ding” post=22880]paint’s paint :whistle: .. but i really like the job you did on the woodwork :rock[/quote]
So true – rebuilding the parts from a pile of rotted wood and veneering them was a real education. The rest was just a few coats of clear – flatten once it shrunk into the grain and re-clear. So many debates about how to do it right…I just did it the way that made sense to me.