Craig Coburn
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That kind of makes my 3 box fans and filters look a little bush league. Nice work.
What are we looking for? I see some corrosion on the cooling fins – but the rest looks fine. If it is chrome and chrome polish/steel wool (which is brutal on chrome) won’t touch it, I don’t know of anything that will make it look better. You could try to cut it with emery compound (then progress to rouge) and a felt wheel, but if it is pitted, this will just polish the pits.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Yep
You can convert the Iwata LPH 400 to work with most any material with just a cap change.The only difference is indeed the cap.
I may be able to help you out on price.
Just look around, see what deal you can find, and I’ll see if I can beat it.[/quote]Sending you a PM.
Quick question…is the 1.3 fluid tip going to be OK for clears?
I only made it in about 45 seconds…jeepers that is nuts. I love to watch the videos of people painting as I’m a visual learner. Anyone got links to some good videos?
[b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]:woohoo: You’ll love the gun!Do some research, some actually like their orange cap better for spraying clearcoat.
Spray clearcoat with it first, see if you like it.
Ask HUB @ http://www.asetusa.com about it.[/quote]
I just found that site…good think I’m snowed in this weekend. There’s some good reading there. Anyway, I picked it up for $290 – used once. I’m pretty happy about the price. This is the first high end gun I’ve ever owned. I’m going to have to look into my pile of old paints and that fender is going to get a few more coats of something before I shoot the car. Thanks for all the help guys.
Craig
Ok, just picked up a used once LPH 400 LVX Extreme. Looking for a silver cap locally. $87 is pretty cheap compared to other on-line deals I’ve seen.
I’m bidding on one right now (everyone stay away from e-bay for a day or so :rofl ) Depending on which one I end up with I’m either going to need a silver or an orange cap. What price can you do for them?
Looking good. I’ve got a couple of fenders on the boil right now as well. So all the work goes into them first, then test fit, prime, install and paint? Doing the base off the car, then putting it back together sounds like a pretty good idea for some parts. I’m guessing it would depend on the car. My 2 doors have very heavy doors – I can’t see me fighting with them to get them in place then setting them up. Now a trunk lid or a hood is a different deal.
What’s the difference between the LPH 400 and the
LPH 400 LVX EXTREME. All I see is the orange cap?I’ve only ever used POR 15…I find it is really sensitive to surface preparation. When I first started to use it, I did have a number of surface failures. It seems to like it if the surface is NOT smooth. Even if it is sanded or ground smooth, you have to use the metal prep to etch the surface. Then you have no problems. That said, I’m contacting my local supplier to see if they can get me in some of this stuff to test.
Here’s my engine finished in POR-15 products.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/14434-2/HPIM0766.JPG[/img]Where does everyone suggest I pick one up on-line? Suggested/preferred retailers?
Thanks guys, so I’m looking for an Iwata or a DeVilbiss GTI…let the looking begin.
Back to the project – I got sidelined with a few other little projects this week and didn’t get back on the job until Saturday. Here’s how I shortened my later bumpers to fit my car (again the idea was to make it fit my existing trim).
First up, measure the length of the trim and mark it on the bumpers when installed (Yellow marks).
Rear (going to have to shorten it about 6″):
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18602-2/HPIM1360.JPG[/img]
Note the rather poor condition of this set of bumpers (they were free).Front (better, only 2″ to loose out front):
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18605-1/HPIM1361.JPG[/img]Then cut the ends of the bumpers off – a jig saw worked best.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18611-1/HPIM1364.JPG[/img]Then take the cap (this is the rear bumper) and position it to get the correct length relative to the trim line. Then cut back to this point.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18614-1/HPIM1365.JPG[/img]In preparation for epoxy, I roughened up the back side and V’d out the cut line (fitting was completed first) on both parts. I found that my carbide burr left a pretty decent finish for the epoxy.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18617-1/HPIM1366.JPG[/img]Apply the reinforcing mesh. On the front bumpers I used my soldering iron to melt the mesh into the bumper.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18620-1/HPIM1367.JPG[/img]I used foil tape on the back side to keep the epoxy in place.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18623-1/HPIM1368.JPG[/img]The material to stick it back together. Norton Speed Grip Epoxy, reinforcing mesh and applicator. My bodyshop supply pal let me borrow the gun for the night – great guy.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18608-1/HPIM1363.JPG[/img]Finished – set it aside to cure.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18626-1/HPIM1369.JPG[/img]I then used some flexible filler to make the bumpers look a little better. I used this where the bumpers were gouged, or dented. I also filled the license plate screw holes in the front bumper (we don’t have front plates in Alberta).
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18647-1/HPIM1382.JPG[/img]The product says it’s fast and it is – open time is about 4 minutes. I counted it down using songs on my radio – only one song’s worth of working time from squeezing it out of the tube to application – you have to move.
I then sanded out the rest of the bumpers to ensure good adhesion of the bumper paint. Areas that were not damaged were prepared with a burgundy 3M pad.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18629-1/HPIM1372.JPG[/img]Then on with the bumper paint. The first few coats revealed a bit of plastic fuzz in the repair areas – so I sanded it off with 400 wet and dry and shot it again.
Here’s the finished product. They aren’t perfect as there are many little dings, sandblasting pits etc – but they sure are a lot better than before.
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18632-1/HPIM1375.JPG[/img]Close ups:
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18635-2/HPIM1376.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/18638-1/HPIM1377.JPG[/img]4″ electric grinders from Princess Auto – I go through one in about a year. Why do I keep buying these things (or getting them replaced?)? The problem is always the cheap rocker power switch. How did this tool get through any safety testing when the switch doesn’t go off with the power. One time the switch broke and I didn’t know, when I plugged it in it took off and cut through my air line. Good thing it didn’t take me out :rofl