Craig Coburn
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Depends on the product. I have a 1.3 and find it a touch slow and when spraying UTech 3.5 high solids single stage it was painful and needed the 1.4. Most paint manufacturers produce a sheet that tells you what needle size for your gun for their product.
Not an expert – just a hack…so I know low tech. I’m looking into getting a 30″ barrel fan myself for the garage booth. The one I’m looking at moves something crazy like 7000 cfm. If your looking at 20′ by 8′ by 6″ that’s 80 ft^3 assuming you’ve got grate right out to the edge. I’d have to sit and work through the rest of the flow – but depending on the size of the booth area it sounds like it would work to me.
Thoughts – the grating is heavy (I use it for my plasma cutter) and not all that cheap. You could get by with formed ramps (bent 10 ga) with some expanded steel on the top. It would be easier to move IMHO.
I don’t know how I would do anything without the watchful eye of my orange tabby – sorry dude.
[img]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/199009_1789762578428_1070503471_32062217_3134691_n.jpg[/img]
You’ll need the orange cap for base and the silver for clear. If you’ve never painted a metalic before, get some test panels and try first before painting your car. They are not that hard when the colour is dark in my rather limited experience. I’ve watched a bunch of YouTube videos posted by Jimmo and Bondo (and others) on this forum and they are excellent for getting a look at how it should go. Lots of tips for shooting a complete or just bumper covers etc can be found by searching the forum. The rest of the guys are very knowlegeable and have always helped me out a lot with my garage painter questions.
So my advice – pick a product line, get the data sheet, follow the instructions, practice, ask, practice, ask etc.
I got it for $280 plus shipping – if I can’t get it to work I’m going to have to quit :rofl . I’m really looking forward to getting it in an giving it a try. I’m not letting go of the Iwata just yet…it’s been a really great gun.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20205]Hey canuck good score on the 3000rp;) The sata jet 90-2 is a reduced pressure spray gun,it is basically a glorified primer/sealer gun,not at all like the old jet 90.[/quote]
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20186]I don’t think the 90-2 are very good if I remember correctly. The old Sata 90 was good. I think jayson knows more about the two models.[/quote]
Thanks Ryan,
I just pulled the trigger on a used Sata Jet 3000 RP with a 1.3 tip. We’ll see how that goes.
I’ve been bidding on eBay looking for an RP…then when I was in picking up supplies I noted that I can get a SATA 90-2 RP locally for $300 (PN 123240) with a 1.3 tip. Any reason NOT to buy this gun?
That’s not enough distance (depending on a number of variables being assumed here). My set up is at least 50′ long and all 3/4″ copper with drop legs and ball valves where I need them. I’m going to be setting up a “radiator” with 3/4″ copper pipe just before my final filter/regulator on the wall where I hook up my line. I’ve never found the mini inline dryers worth the effort and I think the reduce flow a lot which is more of an issue if you’re painting with a smallish compressor. Get as much pipe between the compressor and you and get a drop leg on the final connection before the water trap.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20051]One thing to think about is low overspray really true? Now if you are spraying a complete or whatever in your garage an hvlp is going to take longer vs using a reduced pressure gun.The difference in time per coat can result in more overspray with the hvlp vs the reduced pressure gun due to the fact you will be spraying longer with the hvlp.Unfortunately your LPH 400 is going to be useless in our area due to all products(EVEN SW)are now low voc high solids,and a 1.3 hvlp will make it difficult to achieve good results.For myself I like a 1.4rp or 3000rp to spray single stage,but I am a fast sprayer with a heated booth.Like ryan said you might be better off converting your lph for about half the price of the $400rp.If you want a 3000rp I think you would be more suited to a 1.3
Utech 2.8 is even more high solids than 3.5,so I wouldn’t even try it if I were you in a garage.Now 3.5 can work very well but you need to put 1 oz of 994 accelerator per sprayable litre or it will be slow(did you do that :P) in an air dry evvironment with little air flow.Try to get out of the habit of thinking that if you aprayed brand x this way it should work with brand y,if you need help over the phone before you spray next time PM me.Good luck next time.[/quote]All great points – the 1.4 sold, so I’ll start looking for a 1.3. I wasn’t made aware of the accelerator (boys at Off Shore should have tried to make more of a sale :deadhorse ). It’s not a habit to think that one thing will work – I’m just surprised by the difference between the products. Changing every minute is difficult when you spray once in a while. I’m getting the gist on the low VOC stuff high solids stuff :teach. I’ll get the hang of it as long as you guys still reading.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20049]U-tech is a pretty high solids product, so it can be a little more difficult to spray if your used to lower solids products. I can’t really answer if the sata would be better for you or not. I like both guns, the Sata more so, but the W400 is a nice gun. You already have the Iwata, so if money is tight I would convert your LPH. One advantage to the Iwata is you will be dealing with considerably less overspray than the RP. In a garage setting this is a good thing. Also you have to move at a good pace with a RP, so if you are not real comfortable painting, moving at a slower pace is a good thing.[/quote]
That was the reason for getting the LPH (garage painter) and I’ve really liked the transfer efficiency of this gun. I’ve got a line on an RP for a pretty good price (under $400). Tax time, so if it solves my issues for a product that works better for me I don’t mind spending the money. On the U-tech sheet, it says that if I cut the product I have to clear it. For the price difference, I wouldn’t mind having both around – I’ve got some plans for moving a lot of air in my garage.
Anyone spray the U-Tech 2.8?
That’s what learning is all about! Coming from the SW line, it’s completely different. I’ve shot the single stage SW with the Iwata without issue at 16 psi. I just didn’t know what the heck to do with this stuff. It was so slow and I didn’t have the tech sheet (putting together a binder today) so I didn’t know if I could thin it to help out or jack the pressure. Last thing I needed was it drooling all over the floor! If I get the jet – I’ll be looking for a test panel for sure before I try to lay it on a car again. As I don’t do this all the time, when things go south I try to not make a mess. I can deal with the peel later if it bugs him (and it would bug me – looks like a new Ford truck for texture!).
What would you suggest…I’m looking at a Sata jet 3000 RP 1.4. I hope it isn’t too fast. The garage temp was all over the place as it flipping snowed when I was trying to do this job! Kind of tough to open the door and get some air flow when the it’s 24 degrees C in the “booth” and -5 C outside. I didn’t have a choice, but what a gong show. I was really careful not to lay it on too wet as I’d been warned – but it was very slow and it didn’t atomize well at all. It’s not the paints fault – it covered great and seems tough as nails…it was me and the gun this time.
Well, that SUCKED – I did the best I could with the 3.5 and ended up with orange peel that is just a little excessive. I hate trying out new products every time I paint. The weather took a nose dive and my buddies garage is NOT set up like mine for paint. Not exactly the best of all circumstances, but I was hoping for more. The 3.5 took forever to be hand slick, coverage is excellent with 2 coats, but my Iwata LPH400 1.3 didn’t like it at all. I had the fluid needle backed all the way out and with the fan dialed down to about 10″ at 6″ or so off the surface, it was spraying like ceiling texture. I had to go so slow it was painful. I had the pressure at the gun set to 16 psi – just couldn’t get it to work very well.
Now I’m stressing about using it on my car? What’s the gun set up? Do I reserve the Iwata for B/C and get something else? New fluid tip (1.4?) – sh!t…changing all the variables. HEEELP
OK, thanks for the tip. I thought the 3.8 was slow and the guys at Off-Shore warned me that the 3.5 is slower still. I’ll crank up the heat – hey, 2 coats or 3 while I’m asking?
Excellent information Andy. I picked up a little paint job for a friend and am trying out the U-tech 3.5 that Jayson suggested. It’s good to have other people paying for my practice:whistle: . Let’s see how it goes – what would I do with out you Jayson? Thanks again:clappy .