Fred
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Thanks Jay. I want to use it on the interior trim and dash for sure, but will have to do some testing before deciding on the exterior.
I’ve heard that it is difficult to make a repair on ceramiclear,not sure why, but have you found that to be true?
The only humidity problem in cold weather is for humans not having enough. Its not about evaporation, its the amount of moisture that the air can hold. Slow evaporation in the winter is because the cold air already has all the moisture it can handle.
You can tell that humidity is not a winter problem by draining your air traps. What little moisture I have stays in the tank in the winter. My air compressor is upstairs without any heat so its cold, and with a 7 foot metal line going up to the ceiling, that is enough to cool the air for the moisture to run right back to the tank.
Its because cold air can not hold as much moisture as warm, even though the air temp may be 30 degrees and humidity is 88%. It sounds like a lot of moisture, but humidity is relative to air temperature. When you bring that 30 degree air inside and heat it up, the 80% humidity that it had, drops dramatically.Thats what matters most, that you like it.
It really looks wet and slick.Cool, I guess that makes it easy to do things the way you want.
jeremy I noticed the word ower under the big E, are you the owner of Elite Customs?
Someone on the autobodystore forum answered a question about proper sequence for overall paint jobs and stated that he has done thousands of cars and starts in the middle of the roof and comes back toward him and down the side over the hood and then pick up in the middle of the roof.
Thats when I first knew that this guy is not who he professes to be. Also he never talks about how the different paints spray or how different guns handle them, he just has text book answers or wrong advice.
Not trying to start the whole thing up again on here, I just wanted to tell you and Ding what you already know.
Actually I may be out of line by posting names here, but if it is permitted then I think the more people that know the better. A new painter could easily waste a gallon or more of paint by following some of that guys advice.Have you guys ever heard of starting a complete in the middle of the roof? Not just on one style of car, but doing it everyday on all cars.
Is it not acceptable to use G&W remover?
I guess the blue is from the picture, I forgot to mention this time that is just an example, and not the actual car.
[quote=”bloverby” post=22603][quote=”chevman” post=22601] I don’t remember what type paint Kosmo used[/quote]
I’d be real surprised if he was using anything other than House of K(osmoski)olor. Since he owned that paint comopany.
If your doing that thing in the blue and white solid colors just use ppg concept single stage and forget the clear all together, that little tiny paint break line in a crease isn’t gonna amount to a hill of beans.[/quote]
I know who he is, I meant the type of paint.
Not sure when blue came in, its actually solid Yellow and white.
It seems to me that its much easier to scratch without clearcoat, maybe my imagination.There are so many top guns on this site, so I am really pleased that you guys are giving my question some thought.
Yes, I am now talking about using acrylic urethane for both colors, and PPG says their DCC can be cleared, so I would like to do that. From what I have read, the clear over it will make it a much better system.I saw a video by Jon Kosmoski a few years ago, and he was doing a custom job with several colors and strips, and to keep the build up down he taped the paint line before spraying for EACH color, and by doing that he had the same thickness on both sides of the paint line, then cleared over.
In my case I will have extra clear on one side, but I don’t think it will be an issue in this case. The paint line is only a few inches, and the way the two colors meet on the recessed body line, and with the doors closed this is only place the two colors meet. I intend to sand the colors, and that will reduce build also. I don’t remember what type paint Kosmo used, so will all this work?
[quote=”jim c” post=22272]All you really need is a step ladder. clearing the two colors seperately really isnt the right way to do this. you get your color the way you want it then clear is the final thing. your making it way harder on yourself than you need to.[/quote]
I guess I like extra work or something. I’m retired, I have time, and I would like to walk the roof with my spray passes, so what do think about this.
Using acrylic urethane DCC concept PPG instead of basecoat
1 Spray white on the roof down to the recessed body line
2 mask top to the line and spray yellow on the bottom
3 sand the whole car
4 spray clear on the top, and extend it just a couple inches past the line
5 mask the top to the paint line, and spray clear on the bottomIf you look at the Nomad picture, I don’t think this line would be visible, and with a little sanding on the line it would level out and have the exact same coverage on both sides of the line. I know this is a little tricky with basecoat, but would it work with the urethane?
OK, thanks Jim
Just didn’t want to stir up the dust by putting up and taking down the platforms several times while doing the clear coat.
