Craig
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I’ve seen this once before. I believe the sanding paste used to help in the sanding process wasn’t completely washed off. I did an experiment by sanding one side of an old part with sanding paste and not washing it and the other side by sanding with the paste and washing it off properly. When I did a crosshatch test the side not properly cleaned peeled right off. There was no sign of adhesion. The other side never moved. I think it’s a prep issue. IMHO
We have one and use all 3 grits, 40, 80, and a scuff pad. Removes spot welds easier than drill and grinds down spot welds without any filler work. It is one of the best tools I have bought.
Drain the compressor daily, sometimes twice. It’s acting like the air is being heated and cooled after the filter system. We have a three stage devilbliss system. Going to look into a refrig. drier next week.
At what point in the line id your drier? Is it close to the compressor or closer to the booth? I have read different opinions on the location.
I am signed in. Why is it showing that I am posting anonymous? I am CraigD.
Basecoat , clearcoat. we’ve used PPG and Dupont in the past. It can be used with any topcoat system.
Use it all the time on bare plastic. It is a very good product. Haven’t had any failures that we know of. Make sure you use the super cleaner with it and you shouldn’t have any problems.
I have found that sometimes ordering a new bumper is a much easier, better and cheaper way of doing a bumper job instead of trying to strip it. It usually happens that the paint wants to stick in all the tight spots and you end up spending alot more time on it. Just my opinion. 😉
Apply a coat of clear base, spray color until coverage, reduce ready to spray color 1 to 1 with ready to spray clear base, apply 1 coat. If stripes are still there reduce again 1 to 1 with ready to spray base. This should make them disappear if all other spray directions and techniques were followed.