Dan
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Yep, I agree with Jim, and other guys on buying a quality piece, not a piece. I have a Lincoln 140c mig that works great. I use my larger Lincoln 255c on larger stuff, both run on shielding gas. I’d suggest a miller or Lincoln (depends whether you like red or blue better) and not look back. A 120 volt welder with gas will allow you to do several types of automobile repair. Get yourself a bottle of gas, (argon/Co2) and some 0.023″ wire and start practicing, it’s relatively forgiving and can be lots of fun! good luck!
I have been using the Devilbiss Deekups also, how do the Sata cups compare?
Car looks great! What is the HS+ clear? who makes it? What’s your favorite clear? Do you think cost plays a big factor in quality of clear, or do you find the smaller companies can hold there own against the big guys clear?
I hear you guys. Lots of costs in r&d for the company, especialy in color formulations. That aside, I often wondered if you pulled the label off the clear, do they all copy each other to some degree? How many ways are there really to make a good clear? I would think that the aftermarket companies don’t wanna fail and establish a name for themselves, and wouild strive to make a good clear, wihtout the overhead of the larger companies. I have never had any clear fail on me, name brand or otherwise…I begin to think that a good clear is a good clear and a cheap clear is a cheap clear, that is aftermaket companies advertise low and high end clears like the major companies…why can’t they make an as good or better clear for less money? and if you are not a dealer or painting several cars a week, is there really a difference in the quality of the actual product and not the quality of the warranty?
Point makes sense Ryan, I just often wonder how much marketing hype is involved with these products. Some clear is $100 a set-up, others around $400 are they really 4 times better in quality? How much of it is marketing, does it really cost that much to make a clear? I’d love to see a chemical analysis between the top name brand clears vs. the top aftermarkets. I know how things are marked up in industry, wonder if it’s a similar scenario with clear, as we are buying a blind item unless we are chemist with access to an expensive lab…how can we really say one clear is “better” then another unless we are a chemist?
Ryan, what clear(s) do you like better and why. I’m obsessed with this paint stuff and always trying to learn more and try new products.
If you are painting a car hear and there, why use the expensive brands? I’m not sure that they are any more durable. I have used Glasurit for a number of year and it has worked great but very $$$. SPI is resonably priced and seems to hold up for a number of years. My question is why spend tons of money on clear does it really matter?