D.C Rockafeller

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  • October 27, 2010 at 11:46 pm #24745

    Got a few more pics of the skylark, I’ll post the engine after it gets sprayed

    [IMG]http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y344/dcturcotte/68%20Skylark/dill2.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y344/dcturcotte/68%20Skylark/dill1.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y344/dcturcotte/68%20Skylark/dill3.jpg[/IMG]

    October 27, 2010 at 5:22 am #24719

    [quote=”painter123″ post=14915]did one about 6 years ago epoxy’d it and then single staged it and it still holding out..:compsmash[/quote]

    [quote=”jim c” post=14916]I have done quite a few engine blocks on moth car and motorcycle. I always epoxy then ss on them. Never had one fail[/quote]

    How did you guys prep them? The only thing that has me leaning towards etch is media blasting them isn’t really an option and I don’t trust scotch brite. I would rather epoxy them I’m just worried I might not have bit into the block enough and might want some self etching attributes..

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14914]Tough call. I would say you can’t go wrong with epoxy, but I have never had etch fail on me and it’s been over a decade.

    Have you ever over hardened clear on engine parts?[/quote]

    can’t say that I have, Probably not going to use BC/CC, rep is looking into some products for me

    October 27, 2010 at 3:11 am #24712

    [quote=”Ben” post=14911]could you soda blast it or something like that to help with abrasion?

    Personally, I would just go straight epoxy.

    Is the engine disassembled or in pieces? If it is pieces, could you have a machine shop dip it?[/quote]

    It’s mostly assembled, The top end is missing, waterpump is attached, took the the distributor off. From what I understand the owner wants the waterpump pained too, bolts and all. I’m leery of blasting the block because I don’t want media in any orifices, from what I understand, the engine has already been rebuilt. Can anyone say @$$ backwards :cens

    October 26, 2010 at 1:08 am #24678

    [quote=”Stone” post=14870]blocking is cleaner and quieter and gets it straighter but for removing a little excess I have used the da before. …. we block filler by hand. :kofee[/quote]

    X3 :deadhorse

    You can use air tools to take some of the meat off it, but if your not finishing with a block your not finishing :huh:

    October 23, 2010 at 10:42 am #24608

    Looks good bra
    :stoned

    October 21, 2010 at 11:10 pm #24452

    [quote=”Stone” post=14688]well were gonna find out right away … they’re coming for my diamont and putting in a limco system :unsure:[/quote]

    Comon old timer :stoned stop fighting it and go water already :rofl
    :chair

    Call up Jason @ Western and get him to set you up with EHP, you can’t go wrong :dnc

    October 21, 2010 at 8:25 pm #24444

    :welc

    October 21, 2010 at 7:37 am #24436

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=14674]Well hate to say I told ya so….. Spraying at 45psi is not going to save you any material and defeats the purpose.If this swap was a go sata would have said it was a go a long time ago.The only hvlp I know that you can change to a compliant gun is the Devilbiss GTI to a Devilbiss Plus by changing the fluid tip and air cap.[/quote]

    That new Iwata HVLP has a tip and cap that make it shoot like a compliant, the rep let me demo it not to long ago. Sprayed pretty good, still love my 3000 though

    October 20, 2010 at 11:09 pm #24426

    [quote=”Underpaid Painter” post=14664]By putting an RP fluid set in an HVLP, Im sure the results will not be that great. But…It doesnt sound like anyone has tryed it yet so whats the harm in it. I just think that its interesting to expirement with things.

    Besides I dont think that Sata will be lowering the price on the 3000s anytime soon. They will just release the 4000s at a stupidly high price.[/quote]

    Time will tell, I can’t wait to demo one

    October 20, 2010 at 7:33 pm #24418

    [quote=”Nexson” post=14657]OT: Ryan, check your PM, I owe you![/quote]

    Don’t worry, this tread was hijacked to sh!t long before you got here :deadhorse

    October 20, 2010 at 5:09 pm #24414

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=14646]My supplier in Calgary has a couple 4000’s,it is just a matter of time before I get to give one a real good work out Keep in mind those are retail prices and I will beat my supplier down on price like $20 over cost.Will let you guys know [/quote]
    :exci

    if you can get em for that get 2 and send one my way :hij:

    October 20, 2010 at 8:24 am #24403

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=14642]What is the point to this experiment and what are you gaining :deadhorse ?The handles are made differently and one has air restrictions,it will spray like you are using 20 psi which equals to a corn on the cob appearence :rofl With the 4000’s minute away from coming onto the market for what you will pay for a nozzle set you could buy a 3000 gun that is new for less.Have fun ;)[/quote]
    :clappy

    October 19, 2010 at 8:54 pm #24370

    Yes, it is as simple as ordering a 1.3 set and swapping the parts. :rock :dnc

    October 19, 2010 at 5:09 pm #24367

    [quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=14603]
    To top all that there are a ton of guys who are too bull headed to even try water and dismiss it as not being good, and think water cant be as good as or better than solvent. Low voc solvent base will have a place in their hearts and that is a decent chunk of the body shop market. [/quote]

    cough! cough! frank cox! cough! :rofl

    October 18, 2010 at 5:14 am #24338

    Great job Brian, you never fail to impress :pcorn:

Viewing 15 posts - 121 through 135 (of 140 total)