brandon dingwell
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[quote=”strawberry” post=31578]Just got my Spies Hecker bank up and running. A few lids short but I ordered more. I have the tech from Dupont coming for training. I can mix it no problem but all the product info on the rest of the line is what I’m interested in. I am such a paint nerd! I have never painted with it but I see it mentioned here alot. Any comments or tips on this line would be great, as a painter or a vender.[/quote]
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/sph/home.html
[quote=”gtome” post=31526][quote=”ding” post=31524][quote=”gtome” post=31504]What do you guys think about hand sanding vs DA sanding. I notice the old guy at work uses his DA WAAAY more than I use mine, and he also destroys me on repair times. How do you decide when/where its ok to use a DA? Like the OP I also nitpick when I do things and it probably doubles my repair time.
I did a repair on a 2012 Camaro late in the day on Friday. Had to remove the bumper (to replace it and the grills) and the repair was right at the front tip where the fender meets the bumper. I hammered it out to as close as I could get it because of the funky shape and location if the damage near the edge. Then I ground off the paint in the area and feathered it back a bit. Then spread my filler and knocked it down with 80 grit since it was pretty close to good (sometimes I hit it with 36 grit to speed it up). Then blocked the flat edge with a small block and by hand (on a taco block) on the curved part. I then decided to try Slick Sand for the primer to fill pinholes and give me a little more material to work with in case I wasnt dead on with the filler, then sprayed my guide. Thats where I left it. Is it a terrible thing to use Slick Sand in this situation? Also, I plan to start with 220 to knock down the Slick Sand, then step to 400, then 600. What im thinking is starting with the 220 on a hand block, then maybe once I go to 400, using the DA. Obviously I would need to run 800-1000 to complete the panel, and normally would just do it all by hand. Id like to get more friendly with my DA and for sure once im past 400 grit or so, let the DA do the work. Any advice in this situation?[/quote]
See, in your original post you said you were going to use Slick Sand for primer, hit it with 220, then 400 then 600. Then suddenly after it was mentioned that basing over slick sand was not a good idea, you were suddenly going to come back and spray it with 3055. well what were you really going to do? Sorry, but this isnt Lens site. No one is spewing Bullshit to try and sell the latest greatest paint gun or rust preventor. If you want to ask a question, be prepared to get a truthful answer. you want bullshit and fairytales, well you know where to go :pcorn:[/quote]See…..same shit. Attacked for the gun I use.[/quote]
Didnt attack you for the gun you use. I dont care what gun you use. if it works for you great. I was attacking the BS lies and crap that is spewed over at ABS. Just read Styles posts and Lens lies about epoxy having acid in it. None of them can provide proof of anything they say.[quote=”gtome” post=31504]What do you guys think about hand sanding vs DA sanding. I notice the old guy at work uses his DA WAAAY more than I use mine, and he also destroys me on repair times. How do you decide when/where its ok to use a DA? Like the OP I also nitpick when I do things and it probably doubles my repair time.
I did a repair on a 2012 Camaro late in the day on Friday. Had to remove the bumper (to replace it and the grills) and the repair was right at the front tip where the fender meets the bumper. I hammered it out to as close as I could get it because of the funky shape and location if the damage near the edge. Then I ground off the paint in the area and feathered it back a bit. Then spread my filler and knocked it down with 80 grit since it was pretty close to good (sometimes I hit it with 36 grit to speed it up). Then blocked the flat edge with a small block and by hand (on a taco block) on the curved part. I then decided to try Slick Sand for the primer to fill pinholes and give me a little more material to work with in case I wasnt dead on with the filler, then sprayed my guide. Thats where I left it. Is it a terrible thing to use Slick Sand in this situation? Also, I plan to start with 220 to knock down the Slick Sand, then step to 400, then 600. What im thinking is starting with the 220 on a hand block, then maybe once I go to 400, using the DA. Obviously I would need to run 800-1000 to complete the panel, and normally would just do it all by hand. Id like to get more friendly with my DA and for sure once im past 400 grit or so, let the DA do the work. Any advice in this situation?[/quote]
See, in your original post you said you were going to use Slick Sand for primer, hit it with 220, then 400 then 600. Then suddenly after it was mentioned that basing over slick sand was not a good idea, you were suddenly going to come back and spray it with 3055. well what were you really going to do? Sorry, but this isnt Lens site. No one is spewing Bullshit to try and sell the latest greatest paint gun or rust preventor. If you want to ask a question, be prepared to get a truthful answer. you want bullshit and fairytales, well you know where to go :pcorn:Slick sand is a sprayable polyester filler. Little over kill on a small dent at the front of a fender. But if thats what you need to make it look good then do it. However, I wouldnt use it as a final primer. Its basically the same as using a polyester filler for a skim coat. you wouldnt paint directly over that (would you?)…
Block it with 180 and prime it a urethane primer before proceeding with your prep10 psi is at the air cap not at the gun inlet. 29 psi is the base line for that gun. how much clear are you using? 2 PPS cups worth? HVLP’s do not atomize the clear as good as RP’s do. you could be piling too much on to get it to flow out properly. try bumping the pressure up some more
what grit are you prepping with before paint
I use plastic. Don’t have any issues with getting clean jobs. Are you prepping or back taping different ways when you use plastic vs paper
It likely was sprayed with a matte SS paint
[quote=”billgaino” post=31155]Why do I always have to defend myself.? You CAN tape edge to edge if is is a simple 2tone, of course you can’t precision tape complex curves. I’m just knocking off the base where it leaves a edge at the tape line. I normally don’t touch my base before clear. You better watch what base you use, some cannot be taped before clear. I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money![/quote]
No need to defend yourself. Just realize that most arent going to think your advise is the greatest. taping edge to edge can work but you are not going to get as clean of a line as you would spraying one color then taping off and doing the 2 tone. That is just a fact. If you use proper tape, dont hammer the color on and unmask properly, then there will not be a big tape edge. Base will pull up with the tape if you did not prep properly or did not let the base flash properly before taping. Only base that I am aware of that needs a coat of clear before taping is BASF Waterborne. You are aware that Diamont is RM ?likely too small tip in the gun and the fact that you not only used a fast hardener but you used the wrong hardener. Why are you mixing products?
Guessing it’s an airborne issue if it only happens occasionally
my Akzo rep said it had a special toner in it as well. he said he has a formula. they tinted one the other week that was for a bumper cover job that was supposedly spot on…
dont make it too complicated. they are only headlamps. Sand and buff them or sand them and throw a coat of clear on them. if you sand ALL the haze out of them and buff them they wont start hazing again for at least a year or more. Most of the time it’s just easier to throw a few coats of clear on them though, and they will last longer
[quote=”billgaino” post=30904]So far it ain’t a major breakthrough in my opinion.. Bill
[/quote]Surprise :whistle: