RICHARD LENDINO
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- May 23, 2014 at 2:34 am #46700
I spray in one every day and it works very well. I can get the jobs just as clean as a “pit” style downdraft any day. Ramp pit downdrafts can have a tendency to cause turbulent air because the “pit” is not nearly as deep so you have air moving down then hitting the pit bottom and being pulled to the sides violently. A side downdraft pulls the air away much more consistently with respect to comparing it to a ramp pit booth. Now keep in mind my opinions are based on shooting solvent base coat so the need for fans or high movement air systems is not relevant to my situation. I have seen this be an issue for a friends shop in the area that has a similar booth to me but he shoots water and his fans really cause trash issues for him if the booth isn’t immaculate. So keep that in mind if you are spraying water.
March 21, 2014 at 1:10 am #46160Can it be done? Yes depending on the paint system. I spray solvent so I cant answer for water. Is it advisable, absolutely not! If for some reason there was a situation when you needed to do it, there are many many factors that can turn a little trick into a disaster. The clear has to be quite flashed off to even consider it. Then after you apply your base carefully, you have to wait quite a while to re-clear. when you do reclear, it has to be light coat with a long flash between before a wet coat. If you don’t follow the steps metallics will blush (like old single stage) and solids will split and yellow. Some systems even have a ultra reduced clear formula for wet bed purposes so it obviously can be done but when it’s clear that’s reduced and activated as a top layer, it’s a whole different ballgame. My advice is bake the clear, scuff and reshoot. Don’t mess with trying a trick that in all honesty takes the same amount of time and unless you have done it several times before, I don’t advise it.
March 20, 2014 at 2:29 am #46149The updated version of the Tekna Pro is very similar to the specs on the ProLite. they use the same air caps HP30, TE20, Te10. The are sold With the same fliud tip options and both have quick clean technology. The pro is slightly larger and heavier. Other then that same gun. Share almost identical parts. I use several Pro Lites and have been very happy with them. It doesn’t dump material out like my satas but I also never keep my fluid full open either.
March 16, 2014 at 1:06 am #46121Plastics are always a magnet for static which in turn creates trash. Obviously an alcohol/anti stat wipe down is optimal. Devilbiss makes a anti static tack rag but I would not suggest those as they leave more lint then they prevent. Even with the proper prep i always nib after my adhesion, sealer and first coat of base are applied. I’m painting with solvent so dry times are quicker and allow me to do that. If you are painting with water then having to nib base requires quite a bit of flash off. The closer the bumpers are to anything, walls, filters, doors etc. it will make the chance for trash higher. Moving air around a dirty surface next to a plastic bumper is always a nightmare. Long story short, get more plastic cleaner asap!
March 16, 2014 at 12:53 am #46120I agree with Ben on this. With Glasurit we have some options with pre matted clears. When we use our Limco clear on customer pay and non warranty work we have an additive. Keeping some metal spray outs for reference over a dark and light base is what I do this way I eliminate the guesswork when I have to spray a matted clear.
March 16, 2014 at 12:41 am #46119Hey everyone, new to the network but figured if I keep reading posts I may as well contribute. Being in a small shop and the only painter, I have the luxury of never having to worry about anyone contamination my work. I get to tape in the booth and use plastic without paper right up to the panels which reduces trash greatly. The biggest thing for me aside from always wearing a paint suit is never blowing when i tack. Once paint starts going on the vehicle the only air being moved is from when i spray. We have a side downdraft so limiting the air disturbance is crucial. Plus we are the repair facility for our Local Ferrari/Maserati dealer so the less dirt the better. When i do have dirt, i’m the one who has to cut and buff and nobody really likes to buff….ever. The one big thing I don’t do is wear gloves. It’s always hot in Florida so trapped sweat in a glove could always equal a nightmare for me so I avoid running the risk. I think I am going to steal your snail idea Andy. Seems a lot easier then fighting with back taping handle openings every time.
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