Dennis B.
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Come out of air comp. into 21 feet up and down wall with pipe and 180 degree fittings (copper or steal) into a water separator/water trap,
And then on out too shop plumbing and/or another air/oil filter for painting.That should/would be sufficient, (The first moisture trap should stop a lot) the second just guaranty’s it.
Don’t use hose in first 21 feet the metal pipe gives off heat easyer, Thats what you want to get rid of heat too cool the air.
So moisture will condense in first trap.[quote=”Stone” post=17545]tool box ……:rofl ……. oh hell just leave your tools all over the shop like the Pro’s :whistle:[/quote]
Thats the way its done isnt it?
Cant figure out how to take your tool box drawers OUT????
WOW?
Well
In your case Its the best advise I can give ya
Seeing how You dont have ALL the right equipment i.e. Air Compressor, DA, Sanding Blocks, Plastic filler spreaders,
Bondo File, PAINT GUN, sandpaper all the different grits and types, Not too mention Wax and grease remover, Lacquer thinner, Primmer, Paint, Clear,
Body tools= Like Body hammers and dollies slide hammers etc…..Your door may look fine from the inside and Im sure an experienced body man with all the equipment could fix it fast! :stoned
But seeing how its already been fixed with way too much Bondo before its going too need metal work to make it right.
Wich is already a lot more than your imagining I’m sure.Im also sure you could find a good door for an old Mazda 626 fairly CHEAP,
more than likely cheaper than what you could have yours fixed by a Pro at a Body shop.But do what you want its your car and Money :cheers
Oh by the way I use Junk yard Parts ALL time SO do these guys!
Way more than often there better than any AFTERMARKET china made parts out thereBeen long time since I updated this I have no idea what happened to my pics but oh well here’s a current shot
Its dirty as heck but I been tinkering away at it.
[img]http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t44/Marvinator/41%20ford/015-1.jpg[/img]
Why not just go around too local Junk yards and find a new door?
Probably find one with the right color or close enough.
More than likly door is shot any way or it wouldnt have needed that much filler any way.Loose the Rattle can
If you have to use a Spray bomb use one of these
http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/preval-paint-sprayer.aspx
At least you can use REAL automotive coating with them
But too paint a whole door you would be money ahead buying a good cheap Paint gun and a cheap Air CompressorDing
I used that dang thing before and it said the nearest one was up in Reno???
Might be my Zip code as Im 100 mi from vegas.
I am Familiar with De’Angelos paint shop although I didnt know they were a PPG dealer?
I will swing by there shop and try picking some up and try it.When I lived in Tulsa There I had a PPG store that was ALL PPG it was a really cool paint shop.
The guys in that place were really sharp.[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19736]Did you ever try the PPG DX103 or wetting the floor?[/quote]
I did wet floor down but I havnt tride the DX103 (No PPG dealer in my area)
[quote=”JCClark” post=19533]Laugh if you want to but I don’t use tack rags anymore.
And hardly ever use wax and grease remover.
Before I start, and when I’m done with my final sanding, I wash everything
with Dawn dish soap, never had fisheyes after doing that.
Once dry, I never blow it off with air, that just causes static,
which will make dirt stick to it.
I tack off with Endust useing clean dedicated shop rags that I wash and
keep just for that. Laugh if you want but it works better for me
and the Endust removes the static which keeps it cleaner.
Been doing it that way for over 10 yrs now, never a problem.
You all can keep those nasty sticky tack rags.[/quote]JC
I know your work from the other board its always nice and I know you’ve taken flak for publicly admitting to useing that stuff before.
I almost tride it and I will try it just not on my current project.You know its a real shame guys wont look at the science of things before they call BS
Its really to bad the mfg wont let go with more information about the product and your use of it.As far as Tacking between coats I do if its Base coat But not single stage like Im useing now.
I had to respray my hood the other day and again I tacked it and blew it off and Tacked it again same thing.
Trash with the first coat! I have enough material on there to sand and buff but still something’s going on with my booth that I havnt figured out yet.:deadhorseI dont know if welding would be the way to go or not as Import metal welds so poorly Im more inclined for the Glue myself.
No warping with the Glue stuff as compared to welding with all the heat.When your useing that stuff remove all the paint from both pieces that are being bonded.
[quote=”ecksit” post=17205] Do I need any kind of special tools or equipment? [/quote]
Check book and a pen work real good in such cases! :stoned
[quote=”Wydir” post=19520]I use Cotton Rags and cheap Crystle Tack rags
and do that same as jason has posted works for me[/quote]
Thats what I was thinking
Worked good for me before :stoned
Well I was out in the shop again today and I am 100% certain My problem are from the Cheap Blue Towels Im useing.
I am going to shop for a better brand of towels to use as a Final wipe.
Water born W/G remover is breaking these towels down weird….. cheap towels.
Wish I would have caught it sooner would have saved me a bunch of work and time.
Wish My Eyes were better I would have caught it soonerBlowing the Parts off 1st before Tack ragging did help though thanks guys
I use Lac.thinner cheaper than reducer
Unless your useing an Airbrush then Carb cleaner works good without having to take the dang little thing apart
I went by my Vegas Jobber were I get the Towels (I needed some other stuff any ways)
Hes wondering if my W/G remover is breaking the Towel down some how.Ryan
There is no PPG dealer in Vegas that I am aware of.