Dillon T
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It’s a clear mid coat for the vibrance candys and pearls. solvent base, but “compliant” to go over waterborne paints before it came out you had the D895 to make your mid coat (a product I’m told my supplier can no longer get me due to the VOC laws). I find this VWM5555 bleeds a lot easier then the d895 you can’t put anything thicker then a “medium wet” coat according to the tech sheet. It bleeds very easily despite appearing to have a pretty high viscosity. if you want to put more then 4 coats you have to let it air dry for 16 hours :blink:. I did 3 candy coats on the escalade roof wednesday night, cleared it and went home happy because it turned out really nice. Yesterday morning i came in to find the worst case of solvent pop I’ve ever had.
I can normally trace my problem back to myself (I ALWAYS assume i’m the problem before the product) and find a hole in my procedure but honestly this time after going back and looking at all my tech sheets everything I did seems solid. I fell within all flash times. the hardeners were even all within 2 days old so it’s unlikely they were bad. I sprayed the body last night and once i had the candy on I went home and now this morning I’m going to go in and clear it. I know that some of these specialty products are tricky and often finicky but 16 hours to air dry, and severe solvent pop when falling within tech sheets flash times and recommended coats?
Lastly, we sanded a little part of the roof with 800 and it appears that we will be able to reclear and alleviate the problem without having to go back to the start.
thoughts??I’m probably going to find a different product to make my midcoat i’ve used this one several times and never been impressed. I had to warrenty a bike tank with a similar solvent trapping issue as well.
[img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof3.jpg[/img]Actually [b]TRUE [/b] Indians are born in [b]India[/b], when white people came from England to the new world they thought they found the trade passage to India they were looking for, and called the [b]Native Americans[/b] Indians, but being a proud Cherokee I’m sure you knew that. :huh:
Jayson pretty much nailed it on the head. Thats really interesting what Jim has to say about the Iwata. The rep is suppose to be stopping by today to drop off his demo again, this time with a fancy new tip that is suppose to make it lay clear down better. It would have to be a pretty fancy tip to dethrone my 3000 :P. I’m going to pay attention to the difference in transfer efficiency too. Man I love trying new gear :woohoo:
I am a big fan of the 88-98 chev and gm’s. mostly the 91-94 and the 97-98’s
I would really like to get my hands on a 454SS it’s to bad they sell now for practically what they were worth new.I would definitely strip that hood to the steel. the rest of the truck do as rat suggested and take it down to the primer,
also get a fleetside box :rofl
god damn i am an a-hole today :woohoo:
seriously though nice unit, my kind of truck :pcorn:
i’m just buggin ya, :silly: no question on here should be taboo either. Unless there is several extra layers of paint on the truck then you will be fine to scuff paint without having to strip, once you get into having excessive layers like four layers of paint and up the truck will be more prone to chipping and what not.
post some pics if you can, i’d like to see the truck
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