Dillon T

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 97 total)
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  • July 23, 2010 at 3:37 pm #23230

    It’s a clear mid coat for the vibrance candys and pearls. solvent base, but “compliant” to go over waterborne paints before it came out you had the D895 to make your mid coat (a product I’m told my supplier can no longer get me due to the VOC laws). I find this VWM5555 bleeds a lot easier then the d895 you can’t put anything thicker then a “medium wet” coat according to the tech sheet. It bleeds very easily despite appearing to have a pretty high viscosity. if you want to put more then 4 coats you have to let it air dry for 16 hours :blink:. I did 3 candy coats on the escalade roof wednesday night, cleared it and went home happy because it turned out really nice. Yesterday morning i came in to find the worst case of solvent pop I’ve ever had.

    I can normally trace my problem back to myself (I ALWAYS assume i’m the problem before the product) and find a hole in my procedure but honestly this time after going back and looking at all my tech sheets everything I did seems solid. I fell within all flash times. the hardeners were even all within 2 days old so it’s unlikely they were bad. I sprayed the body last night and once i had the candy on I went home and now this morning I’m going to go in and clear it. I know that some of these specialty products are tricky and often finicky but 16 hours to air dry, and severe solvent pop when falling within tech sheets flash times and recommended coats?

    Lastly, we sanded a little part of the roof with 800 and it appears that we will be able to reclear and alleviate the problem without having to go back to the start.
    thoughts??

    I’m probably going to find a different product to make my midcoat i’ve used this one several times and never been impressed. I had to warrenty a bike tank with a similar solvent trapping issue as well.
    [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/roof3.jpg[/img]

    July 22, 2010 at 9:12 pm #23175

    Actually [b]TRUE [/b] Indians are born in [b]India[/b], when white people came from England to the new world they thought they found the trade passage to India they were looking for, and called the [b]Native Americans[/b] Indians, but being a proud Cherokee I’m sure you knew that. :huh:

    July 22, 2010 at 6:45 pm #23173

    I usually send small parts like that to be blasted. I’m not sure what media they use but they do a great job and roughs it up really nice and fine.

    July 22, 2010 at 3:26 pm #23166

    :whistle:

    Looking sharp son

    I prime a lot of dechromed parts too. I like created more work for myself i guess :wak

    July 21, 2010 at 4:59 pm #23129

    :pcorn:

    Jayson’s been laying paint since before I was born. :blush:

    and then there’s Bondo, who actually predates the spray gun. :whistle:

    :rofl

    July 21, 2010 at 8:08 am #23110

    Neato, I’m painting the panels to a 79 this week and next 😛 .
    Hopefully get some pics of the BOSS tomorrow too, i’ll be sure to post those :woohoo:

    July 19, 2010 at 8:33 pm #22982

    When I first got my RP I was spraying about 32psi, for the year and 1/2 I’ve sprayed 26 – 27 psi. Works great for me

    July 19, 2010 at 7:42 pm #22979

    Jayson pretty much nailed it on the head. Thats really interesting what Jim has to say about the Iwata. The rep is suppose to be stopping by today to drop off his demo again, this time with a fancy new tip that is suppose to make it lay clear down better. It would have to be a pretty fancy tip to dethrone my 3000 :P. I’m going to pay attention to the difference in transfer efficiency too. Man I love trying new gear :woohoo:

    July 9, 2010 at 6:19 pm #22565

    :pcorn:

    July 9, 2010 at 5:24 am #22541

    Wow, that is seriously cool

    June 4, 2010 at 5:19 pm #21758

    I just sprayed some sw solvent on a BMW and had some mottle on the hood, however i blame myself and not the system, i should paid more attention to what it looked like before i cleared it

    June 4, 2010 at 1:53 am #21753

    I am a big fan of the 88-98 chev and gm’s. mostly the 91-94 and the 97-98’s
    I would really like to get my hands on a 454SS it’s to bad they sell now for practically what they were worth new.

    I would definitely strip that hood to the steel. the rest of the truck do as rat suggested and take it down to the primer,

    also get a fleetside box :rofl

    god damn i am an a-hole today :woohoo:

    seriously though nice unit, my kind of truck :pcorn:

    June 3, 2010 at 6:43 pm #21748

    i’m just buggin ya, :silly: no question on here should be taboo either. Unless there is several extra layers of paint on the truck then you will be fine to scuff paint without having to strip, once you get into having excessive layers like four layers of paint and up the truck will be more prone to chipping and what not.

    post some pics if you can, i’d like to see the truck

    June 3, 2010 at 6:18 pm #21745

    what are you building a show truck 😛

    if the paint is original or only been repainted once before and is in good condition I wouldn’t go to crazy with it

    June 3, 2010 at 5:29 pm #21743

    I agree 100% withe kevin campbell that the first coats are critical and it’s a good idea to spray them a little lighter and it makes it easier to avoid blotches. That being said, your first attempt doesn’t look to bad at all

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 97 total)