Elliott Gervais
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Well, painted it today…color match isn’t great on one side of the car…I think it’s because one side of the car was painted previously by a P.O. and the other side wasn’t…
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341440510.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341402014.jpg[/img]
The blend on this side isn’t great…
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341417387.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341389341.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341386541.jpg[/img]
This side looks pretty damn good!
Elliott
Painting the front of the car tomorrow (sans bumper…will leave for another time). Just working out some last minute bugs like one of the rub strips being broken…fixing that as we speak.
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341303450.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341286983.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1341335275.jpg[/img]
Thanks Ben. Yeah there is no label on the stuff he gave me…anyway I guess I won’t use it just in case. There is a distinct smell to the PPG wax & grease remover that I have, and it does not smell like it at all…
I mean, can any sort of “solvent” cleaner be used to de-grease/wax a panel if it is wiped off (like they should be)?
Thanks again,
ElliottAlright thanks guys. I ended up using the sandpaper and it worked out pretty well.
I just had another question: I asked my local paint supplier if he could give me a smaller amount of wax & grease remover instead of buying the usual 1 gallon (I think?) jugs. He gave me a quart instead which is fine.
The thing is that the stuff he gave me smells very similar to the “solvent” (does not say wax & grease remover, just solvent) I have…can this be used as a wax & grease remover? I’m guessing it can since he gave me it when I asked for wax & grease remover, but I just want to double check before it causes me lifting issues.
Thanks,
Elliott[quote=”bondomerchant” post=26684]sandpaper are ya sure :blink:[/quote]
Well that’s what I have on hand right now…going to the store for me is a problem because I work every day and when I get home the stores are usually closed…I thought that’s what people normally do was sand paper?
Great thanks.
And if I’m going to sand it with sandpaper, I just go until the panel isn’t shiny anymore as you mentioned with the scuff/paste method? Basically when it’s not shiny anymore that means that the new clear has something to bite into?
[quote=”Ben” post=26677]Most of us us 800 with and interface pad on a DA. Probably the quickest way, but also the easiest to screw up and burn through. Grey pad and scuff paste can be fairly quick too, and is almost foolproof. Just make sure to clean it (not let any residue/sludge dry on there) and check for shiny spots when dry. Sanding with 800-1000 wet works ok as well, but is probably the slowest possible way of prepping. A grey pad with paste may be the best way for you.
If I am ever prepping a blend panel and I am worried about the clear being thin (like on some Korean cars, I would go grey pad (wet or dry).[/quote]
Thanks Ben.
Is the scuff paste expensive?
And when you say grey pad (wet or dry), what do you mean exactly? Like when would you do it dry and when would you do it wet?
Also, am I looking for the “ultra-fine” gray pads or just regular ones? Anyone know the # of the pads? 3M I think?
Thanks,
ElliottOh okay. So what do you guys usually use to sand down thin clear coat? Should I use 1000 grit wet instead?
Hey thanks.
So there is no chance of going through the clear doing that method? And what do you mean when you say wet? Do I have use water with the paste, too?
If I don’t have time to get that stuff, will 800 wet sandpaper work just as good? What is more aggressive in terms of 800 wet vs. gray w/ scuff paste? And what grit sandpaper is more or less equal to gray w/ scuff paste?
Awesome job, man. I love those new Fiesta’s…I guess that’s some RS model or something?
Alright so with quite a bit of help with the sanding to get it all semi-flat…I sprayed more primer on everything…maybe it’ll be the last coat…will have to wait to see after I wet sand it all…but it looks good so far!
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1340527746.jpg[/img]
[b][size=150][color=#FF8000]Anyone know where to buy the undercoating stuff they put on the bottoms of these?[/color][/size][/b]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1340475808.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1340557221.jpg[/img]
[img]http://184.154.165.18/~devilthe/uploads/1340525601.jpg[/img]
Elliott
Hey.
I see. So basically you have to shoot the 2k before the recoat window closes (7 days), but after 30 minutes, as it says in the tech sheet I posted?
Thanks,
Elliott[quote=”Jayson M” post=26552]Never used it can’t comment,looks like industrial or from delfleet division.Whats wrong with 2k urethane primer?[/quote]
Nothing…I just don’t have any and don’t really have any time to go buy any…
Anyway…back to my original question, should I be sanding the primer prior to using body filler on it?
Hey here’s the spec sheet. It’s PPG but their industrial line.
I don’t really have any 2k urethane primer…bleh…
[quote=”smooth” post=23088]If you live in Quebec or any where else in Canada, the law is passed on lower voc compliance. which means that all the major body shops are using waterborne paint due to the fact that its the only paint out there now that will match decent. You can get the lower voc solvent still but more than likely shops aren’t using it because it doesnt match, its still probably being used by back yarders or shops doing completes.
If you are looking to buy a good gun to get started i would suggest buying a devilbiss tekna. It is the best all around gun i own and you will not be disappointed.[/quote]
I see. So do you think that if I go to buy paint at my local store they would be selling me waterborne paints then? If so, would I need to buy some of those air dryers to help cure the paint? I was reading somewhere (here I think in an article), and it said that the paint would almost never cure without them.
I like the Tekna but I’m not really looking at spending $400 on a gun really…for my first time shooting paint especially.
[quote=”Ben” post=23090]In regards to the tip size, it depends on the products. The clear I am using now works best with a 1.4 in my gun. The clear I was using previously was best with a 1.3 or 1.2. But in a different gun, it may work better with another size altogether. You should get an idea of what you are spraying first.
The difference in the starting line vs. something like the Tekna or SATA would be very noticable in feel, the way it sprays and ultimately the finish. The starting line with atomize the paint differently which will make it lay down differently.
For the sake of only a few hundred dollars more, there is no point to buying a cheap gun. If that few hundred dollars makes that big of a difference to you then painting cars may not be for you.[/quote]
I see. I wouldn’t be using the gun very often (quite rarely) in fact…so I’m not sure the work I would be doing (a fender here and there…reclearing my car maybe) would warrant buying an expensive gun…
Are there any other decent guns in the $200 range? The GTi I see is more in that price range. But I read [url=http://www.autobodyreviews.com/2011/06/devilbiss-gti-review/]here[/url] this:
[quote]Cleaning this gun is somewhat of a choir and they incorperate a spacer (baffle) that I have had to replace a few times from wear and tear for about $40 each time. When the baffle goes it doesn’t spray quite right and it is quite frustrating to find that out in the middle of a spray job. With regular cleaning and maintenance I’ve had nothing else go wrong with the gun in the last 8 years having them so with that in mind I guess there is worse things in life.[/quote]
What do you think about that?
I mean if I saw a used Tekna for those kinds of prices I would buy it but it doesn’t seem like anyone is willing to part with theirs at this time lol. :cheer:
Also, looking at guns, how do I tell if they’re waterborne ready or not? Looking at one of the Tekna’s on eBay and it says “Waterborne versions available”. Are the GTi’s waterborne? I know Ben you said that most guns are OK but what does that mean? Wouldn’t they start to corrode inside if they weren’t all stainless steel?
[b][color=#FF0000]What is the difference between the Devilbiss GTi and the Plus? I think the Plus is the gun with the better cap or something like that? But I also read that the Plus is not an HVLP gun? Is the GTi an HVLP gun? Isn’t that pretty important to have?[/color][/b]