mike
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Great work!
The biggest problem we have is profile mapping.Wet sanding the clear and reapplying gets rid of the problem.Depending on the product there are different guns that are preffered.I find my Iawata 400 LV to have the best performance with any clear.Adjustment is key with some of them.Lild is right ..crank up your psi at the gun..it helps break up the product.And yes you need a regulator/filter at the wall.
If ya can take a pic it would help.Looking to see how consistent they are or are they in groups yadayada.
Sure will.LOL!I told management yesterday I want product Monday…get the bugs out fast before we have to deal with it full time.
Yep ya need to be wetter.Try a slower reducer until you get a new cap set.
Try a 1.3 fluid tip and cap.You typically need a larger droplet size for better layout.Also make sure your using the right reducer speed for your temp /airflow and environmental humidity.
Dude…I’ve been in the trade since 86.I have used most paint systems for at least 6 months.BASF and Sikkens for the first 10 years.I did industrial for a year…that was definately a learning curve.LOL.I can make anything work..that’s what we do.My boss has to go back to Sherwill due to contract.I would choose something else for sure.
What we have been told is to regulate pressure at the gun.You need the regulator on the wall to adjust correctly.Like we ever do but we’ve all been doin this for a while.The idea as I’ve been explained is that the cfm has to be regulated at the wall to the gun because the line has a tendency to bleed so many psi depending on how long it is.That’s what all the trainers say.Good luck!
No..my blends are generally not grainy.What I have found is that the larger the job the more over spray is in the air and it tends to cling to the units.All water can be reduced with the activator up to 30% with Sikkens this has to happen with tight spots with silver or gold more often then not.Also blendining in some 666 helps.I’m pretty sure my orientation coats are not dry cause it only happens with large jobs,silvers,golds,and hard to cover colours.No problems with tri-coats.
I try to base my opinions on all the systems that I have used..which is a lot.I have rarely seen these sorts of issues.I lived in Kelowna BC for ten years so I have a lot of experiance with high heat as well as dry conditions.
I’m merely sayin that Sikkens needs work.They came out with Autobase Plus..I was one of the first to have it.I said the same thing.I used 90 line..same thing.Spies was the best in solvent..better than any Glasurit,RM,PPG,Dupont,Sherwill the list goes on.I sprayed Cromax for 8 months (before I moved)and outside of the normal tinting stuff I found it had very few issues.Blowers a must..cause when ya wack all that base on at once it needs it.Otherwise no sand piling,easy to blend,as long as you apply a wet bed,and the convenience of putting on all your base at once.Sikkens on the other hand..does not have a true wet bed.You need to reaplly 666 and begin to reduce or blend out the base.Since it does not have a wetbed,sandpiling begins.
I have sprayed Sikkens for many years..like 8 years of my career..Autobase,Autobase Plus,Lesonal.There water needs some work.Thanks guys.
Just want to get some idea of the item.Asked management to get me some so I can start working the bugs outa it as soon as possible.Hope it’s a little better than the Sikkens water.Hi there.Been spraying the Sikkens autowave for 7 months now.Compared to dupont ICI/PPG even 90 line..it has too many issues.Nexa/ICI is definately the better way to go.