Lobsang
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Thats what I was going to order was the quickclean tekna with 7e7 cap. I read on a lot of forums that the 909 cap is worthless
I am also a sata junkie.. I had been researching recently for a new clear gun and was a little tempted to go with the tekna because of its good reviews… I also looked into the Sata 4000 RP. The Tekna I could get for $350 and a Sata 4000 RP 1.2 digital for $689. Thats A huge price difference… I thought about it for about a week and decided to order the Sata.Today was the first day I used it and I was really impressed.Guess its time to retire my Sata 2000 1.5 Hvlp. If I would have been on a budget I would have gone with the Tekna. Also now I use two minijets with 1.0 needle for spot repairs but when I first started I used a Shaprpe Finex FX100(green) with 1.0 needle for both base and clear and I must admit it sprayed identical to the minijets I now use. minijets run me about $380 and the finex ran me like $100. I was so impressed I bought the full size FX300 with 1.3 tip but unfortunately I was dissapointed with its performance. But like I said the fx100 sprayed great and made me quite a bit of money on spot repairs when I started out. :weights
Grind low spots to bare metal. Pull with stud welder. Remove pins and grind smooth. Apply body filler. Block out with 80g. Apply activated putty. Block out with 180g. Spray primer(2k if possible). Apply guidecoat. Block out with water and 400g . Scuff hood. Spray away! :rock that would be my way :teach
I’m a SATA guy but if your considering the w400 go with that one. Good reputation
Bondo is right. That hood is not too badly damaged I would repair it. I would blend that color into the fenders for sure…Then flip it and celebrate ! :weights
Well I have never sprayed with an Iwata but your w400 is known to be one of the best for clearcoat so you got a good start there. I’m pretty sure the clear you are using is also very good. So next is your technique. Everybody is different. The painter I learned from taught me to spray clear fast and wet. This might sound wrong but it’s MY way and has always worked for me. I only spray 2 coats with no waiting in between coats. I start from the bottom of the car and spray a semi wet coat followed immediately by a nice wet coat. Also depends on the hardener you are using. If I use a slow hardener it will lay smoother than if I use a fast hardener. Hope this helps
If I have to I can sand and buff after spaying 2 coats… I have tried it with about 8 different clears I have sprayed but I have never heard of the one your using…. Do you have any experience wetsanding and buffing? I have to admit when I first started about six years ago I would burn through. I havent burned a car for a very long time but it took me a while to get the hang of buffing VERY fresh paint…
Best advice If your new at it is let it cure properly before you begin the process :cheersThanks guys…. I never go a chance to get back on to read your replies and ended up ordering a 4000 RP Digital 1.2 and also the extra 1.3 needle/nozzle set. It comes in next week . Im spraying 4 cars between now and then I wish it would get here sooner…I heard/read that the 1.2 is great for HS clears and I wanted to have it for when that comes around… Can you guy advise On the psi, distance and overlap with the 1.3 you guys are using…. thanks
Oh I see you answered my message. Sorry im new to forums hope Ill get the hang of it soon. ill try to make it short… Ive been painting for a couple of years now at a little dealership . Own a 2 minijets 1.0 …. 3000 hvlp 1.4…. 2000 hvlp 1.5. …… I use my 2000 1.5 for clear but im uhhappy with the results. Im currently spraying Matrix MS clear for my production work. I average 2 to 3 panels per vehicle. Im looking to purchase a 4000 RP but cant decide on a 1.2 or 1.3….. I also consider myself a fast painter as i feel my hvlps are sooo slooow but i have never sprayed RP
thanks… i actually sent you a message about sata rp’s . hope you have time to help me out