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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • September 21, 2009 at 10:03 pm #16068

    hi bondo can you tell me what the 3m product was called in step 3 used with black foam pad ????

    September 2, 2009 at 11:17 pm #15651

    welcome i hope you not another crazy yank who never wears an airfed mask like the rest hahahahahahahahahaha

    August 31, 2009 at 8:27 pm #15608

    crazy yanks no air fed mask lol lol lol

    August 31, 2009 at 8:16 pm #15606

    i know what type of weld that is A BAD ONE !!!! lol lol

    August 18, 2009 at 12:39 am #15389

    rtsang i do alot of this kinda stuff airbrushing ect i find that its best to remove the tape while still taky leaves no marks and a nice crisp edge ive tried all different ways i get the best results removeing while semi dry

    July 18, 2009 at 12:51 pm #14929

    lol jimmo i was on step ladders when it came to painting i had to stand on the tire engine ect

    July 18, 2009 at 12:44 am #14916

    custom work is even worse airbrushing ect people just don’t get how much works is involved

    July 17, 2009 at 11:46 pm #14913

    heres the stuff i use if we run out of 3m its not bad stuff

    [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m167/wheelieman/DSC00346.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m167/wheelieman/DSC00347.jpg[/IMG]

    July 17, 2009 at 1:22 am #14910

    we use the 3m and another type but i carnt for the life of me remember what its called ill look in my paint store and let you know its cheap and cheerfull stuff lol

    July 17, 2009 at 1:20 am #14909

    i think there’s a few things going on here the obvious fish eye cased by wg remover which has left non adhesive particle behind then there’s the spray pattern very poor application but I’m sure hel learn i have also made the same mistakes in the past but you soon learn from them lol

    July 8, 2009 at 12:37 am #14840

    i got to agree with jc clark its all about the prep im not a fan of just cutting with compound for clear coats in my opinion its not enough i use both pu and acrylic and there isn’t much difference apart from drying time but then that varies from manufactures i do find that p.u are a little tougher but then i can only speak from the products i have used like lechler chrodex ect if im looking for longevity ie alloy wheels then i use p.u anti scratch by lechler its really tough and looks brill years down the line

    June 25, 2009 at 2:36 am #14787

    i use a product called mira chrome for airbrushing for larger stuff its tricky to use due to overspray very slow light coats is the trick i have painted a gsxr in this and turned out brill not sure if you can get it in the states though

    found a few vids for you

    http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mirrachrome/mirra_video.htm

    no expensive start up costs normal spray equipment

    June 25, 2009 at 2:28 am #14786

    i use one of theese never breaks down

    [IMG]http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m167/wheelieman/skd186689sdc.jpg[/IMG]

    June 25, 2009 at 2:13 am #14784

    i agree with bondo if its metalic id put the doors ect back on that way theres no probs with metalics sitting wrong

    May 11, 2009 at 9:53 pm #14294

    love the PDR did he ask at the end if anyone wanted to buy cocaine lol lol lol lol lol

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)