Glen
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I use mosaic. Some colors are very transparent and the color match is not the best. I order paint mixed by the jobber. I’m in Toronto as well. We were using Keystone in North York. I would have a rep come and scan anything that I needed a good color match. It was still hit or miss.
I don’t spray enough to justify a mixing bank. The metallic control is good, blending is good.
No jobber should be able to sell high voc products here.
I would like to try basf solvent.
I had a hard color to match in the mosaic on my last job. 2013 VW Jetta LD7X. The standard is blue then I had a part scanned and was too light and then I had one of the paint techs come and scan it and modify the formula a bit. It got alot better and seems to have blended fine. I will get a better idea tomorrow. I did not use the blending additive for the base coat. The metallic laid down better than the factory. Tomorrow I have chrysler PXR so should be easy.
I used the far right on the car, can take pics of it tomorrow.
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Glen440/media/IMG_20150414_1124538701_zpssnh5ufsl.jpg.html][IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20150414_1124538701_zpssnh5ufsl.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I have used mosaic on my last few jobs. So far I like spraying it. The axalta rep was in last week and wants me to spray cromax pro instead. Going to send me to training. Will be good to know how to spray it and maybe some tricks with the clears but I don’t know if I will use any at work.
I hope it works out.
Whatever it was sanded with was really fine. I could not see sand scratches but they broke through every edge so they used something.
The paint had died back a bit but not really bad.I guess could even be a wax and grease remover that left a film.
I sprayed the other car today. I only took 1 picture. I had to hustle a bit. Didn’t start spraying till 1:15 and 3:15 is home time. It flashes quick and best of all its not like sand when you try to blend it. It lands wet from far away. I did not get a real good look at it but it may be a tiny bit blotchy in the blend in a couple spots. It could be my lack of experience or not having the blender additive for the basecoat. I really needed to blend the doors but it didn’t need to be perfect.
I’m happy with it right now, it sprays good and goes far.
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I peeled it off under the emblem so can’t even blame the sun. The crown vics peel everywhere but not where the stickers are. Its a sun related issue with the single stage and the epoxy they use.
To me it was easy to spray and how I remember. I know I had to try to stripe and mottle rm diamont. I was spraying that as an apprentice with success. It flashed quick but not like the other stuff that dried before it got to the panel.
It lays down nice and smooth. I will get a better feel on the next one, rear bumper and 1/4’s. Gonna try a blend without the base blender additive. As far as I can tell there is no wet bed.I tried to get the adjustment binder for 65F but they had never heard of it. I had the part number from the tds. I also watched the e learning course.
I used the one for 75F. It gets cold in the booth because the bay doors are opened alot because the mechanic side is drive through and park inside.I know I’m not a good person to say how good this stuff is. I have only been spraying garbage for the last 2 years and before that was RM diamont in the 90’s. I can say it sprays 1000 times better than the other crap I have tried. The silver turned out extremely well. I put on 2.5 coats of base. I did a spray out of the ford UN. The adjustment binder is milky so it does change the color when reduced. I used my prolight with 1.3 tip. tds says 1.3-1.4.
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Glen440/media/IMG_20150218_0747179211_zps69a9e60d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20150218_0747179211_zps69a9e60d.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Glen440/media/IMG_20150218_1007579271_zps13daf511.jpg.html][IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20150218_1007579271_zps13daf511.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Glen440/media/IMG_20150218_1250385291_zps0c349529.jpg.html][IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20150218_1250385291_zps0c349529.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Difference between out of can color and reduced and sprayed, I needed the bluer variant but this car doesn’t matter. I can get the paint scanned first when I need a good color.
[URL=http://s295.photobucket.com/user/Glen440/media/IMG_20150218_1052133911_zps31a2874c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20150218_1052133911_zps31a2874c.jpg[/IMG][/URL]I will be spraying some Mosaic tomorrow. Chrysler silver PS2. Colour looked good. I also got some ford UN which is not a good match. This car doesn’t matter so its ok, gonna blend it and see how it goes.
I was curious how it works so just ordered some for my next 2 jobs. My first impression is its thin un reduced compared to what I have been using. Its mixed 1:2 so its gonna be thin. If it covers it will go far.
I found with the transtar you have to pour the base on so its smooth. If it needs to be blended its gonna be a disaster as its like spraying sand as soon as it has any travel time. Mine is the zero voc so the reducers all suck. The clear on the base would die back in a couple hours and I had some that were really bad. Would not die back on the sanded clear, just the base, flash times did not matter could wait hours and the same. I had some tints that would basically spray chunks, didn’t matter how many times it was filtered it would blob on the panel. I have been using a different low voc basecoat that is a little better. Genrock. Color match is just as bad but the clear does not die back and it technically can be blended. Metallic control is really hard when you have to spray it soo wet. It stays like it is sprayed even though flash times are long. I still hate it. I use DuPont clear on top of it.
I use to have a real hard time with the first coat of clear when the base is soo rough you can’t tack it.
If I had to use this stuff in a real shop I would quit. My situation is messed up, can’t get it fixed so I don’t care anymore.
I have no good advice on how to use crappy base.I’m curious how its working for you.
I unfortunately use it at work but most stuff is fleet and I don’t really paint that much. I wish I was on here earlier. No use saying much now.
If you used a reinforcement tape it would have something to hold the repair material up. Or if you do use something like fibertech you can do what we call hot patching, at least around here. Its for when you gotta hack fill a hole from the outside only. Use something the material won’t stick to. Its tuff for something that long in one shot. Tape works, or plastic. put the repair material on the tape and put it material side down over the crack and squish it around till covers everything and make it low. When it dries pull it off and it will be filled. The tape holds the material from falling in.
I was thinking this crack could be glued back together then repaired, I guess its missing some.
Looks interesting. I may order some to play with some day. I see it needs no reinforcement.
I would use a 2 part epoxy for fiberglass and reinforcement mesh tape or backer (looks like drywall tape that has holes). You can grind it down and lay some reinforcement tape on the outside and epoxy over it. You can make a low spot so the tape is lower and won’t be exposed after sanding. I personally use 3m panel bond for everything. Its slow unless its heated.
Resin and mesh is messy.
I would try through the tail light pocket. I don’t have a stud gun at work, I weld washers on and use my slide hammer.