Glen
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That looks like it turned out great :rock
I miss doing collision work sometimes.
I had an interesting thing come in for repair this week. The place that made it could not fix it and no longer had the mold and wanted to make a new mold to make a new one. Its some kind of door on a boat. I love aluminum for its repairability even cast. I had a spot I could not weld at all, was something in the aluminum.
I would show more paint stuff but just doing peeling crown vics right now. I’m backed up with work right now.
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[IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20130219_142747_zps3a9e33a6.jpg[/IMG]I actually had it all ground and decided to beef it up a bit, these are the final.
I only know the insurance companies like shops that are I-car gold. I have some I-car training because at my old work we needed so many courses to get I-car gold status. They kept my certificates when I left, I guess I could get them from I-car if I wanted them. They paid for the courses and the instructor came to our shop after hours as well as other techs from the area.
I only use the tig for aluminum. I tried the mig years ago and didn’t have much luck on anything dirty. Tig helps clean and I know its not just sitting ontop. The boat aluminum pinholes when you melt it. These were good ones, have had them come in twisted and missing way more.
Its going to be whoever is cheaper that gets in. I won’t be able to control what happens. It may be the current supplier vs 2-3 others. I may end up having to buy pre mixed paint. I may be able to have a say in what paint lines are competing.
I sprayed some lv905, it drys smooth and flat. Have to hammer it on to keep it wet but its ok. If all the base layed down like it, I could manage alot better.
What I did today. Welded a couple lower units from boat engines.
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[IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm148/Glen440/IMG_20130208_110106_zpsbc3ca9e9.jpg[/IMG]My work is going to be revisiting the paint contract soon. If you know any suppliers in the gta for this stuff and matrix let me know. Maybe I’ll get something better in here.
On that black hood I was tacking door filter hairs off the base between coats. They changed pulleys on the fan motor years ago to increase airflow cause of the lead paint in the yellow cars.
That car they said didn’t need to be good so i saved them some money, I had to remove the window cause I had to get paint on the inside.
My old job we had to R&I everything.
booth is a disaster, if I ever get time I will clean and paint it, painters didn’t do any maintenance. I cheat and crack the front doors open to slow down the air movement so I get less dirt. Bake lights are still in the front but have no tracks. Its a Devilbiss of some sort.
I can’t wait to try water. Watching Jimmo’s vids with dupont that system would kill solvent for time. By the time I wait for the blending clear to flash water color would be done and waiting for clear.
The bosses will love this guy cause he makes them more money if he really hustles. If he sees you as copetition he likely won’t teach you anything. I guess you guys are hourly if you don’t see repair times. If he blended the clear without a blending solvent he found a bodyline to tape off. You can roll the tape off some lines. Maybe he used a spray bomb blender.
I whipped my gti out for some silver base today. The transtar really dries before it hits the panel with that gun. The funny thing is the lv500 basecoat blender sprays nice. I find the iwata lph400 can put it on wet but that gun we have has a messed up spray pattern so silver is out of the question.
I wonder what would happen if I mixed the color with the blender and added a little reducer. The clear wherever the base is takes on a little texture when the clear dries. Over the basecoat blender its fine. Maybe I can hammer that stuff on as a last coat to seal in the base.
We have 2 cross draft booths that draw air from inside the shop through the doors. There is enough air movement to dry the base. I also have time to let stuff flash as its not a production shop. Last week between coats of base I was welding.
Its why I think the paint supplier is trying to make money. I’m sure people spray water in their garage.
I would have no issue with water but they have an issue with the booths. I can’t remember how much money they wanted to be spent in upgrades which is really some kind of scam.
I heard they wanted my old work to spend 50grand. Pro spray did a demo in there and only brought dryers and it worked no prob. I don’t know what happened there because the painter moved shops before the laws came in.If I even had a full color chip selection I would be far ahead of where I am now.
Thanks for the info.
Gonna be a bit of a learning curve to this stuff. Usually first time its mixed they have added a color it doesn’t need and is way off. I did a UJ ford and it had blue where it needed green and the metallic was way course. The first few paint jobs I did here I had my boss come out of the office and tint the colors. They were not any better than what I have been able to do. Getting the color scanned and cross referenced is a waste of time as that color is way off as well.
I only painted as an apprentice and for almost a year a did a bunch of jobs start to finish but still handed most over to a painter after body work. I never had to tint any color, I always found a variant close enough.
I have more been elected the painter as they won’t be hiring one in the near future.
The funny thing with low voc base is you pretty much can’t get a run in it, I tried on a piece of paper with the spray pattern sideways and the very center got a sag about 1/4 inch thick that sagged about 1/2 inch.