Glen
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I will have to see if we can get pre mixed water base. That will still have some of its own issues with gun cleaning and waste disposal. There is another low voc system the paint supplier has, I don’t know the name but my boss asked them if we could switch. Supposed to have better color match but more transparent.
I have the whole dupont chroma premier system still, they didn’t remove it but have no binder or reducer.
I have noticed they use the wrong aluminum tint in the colors I have been mixing, all too course. When you use the less course one in its place you get a different color. Its lighter. This was my 2nd time swapping them and had to add a ton of black to compensate.
My only issue with products is it can only come from one supplier unless I try through the aftermarket parts supplier we use. My work deals with contracts for all parts and supplies. Only one place bids on the paint side. They are dupont. They wanted us to do alot of upgrading to go water so it didn’t happen. I do fleet work. Most stuff does not have to be perfect. The 2 issues with the base are the texture and I seem to have the clear change when the clear dries just over the base, not sanded clear.
What I want to try is le-1075s reducer. I can order anything dupont if you know one that will be good. I’ll have to go look through there products.
I’m gonna try some dupont reducer I have for clear in the transtar base tomorrow. I mixed some base with the reducer and it seemed ok and sprayed on a piece of paper and seemed good. Painting a 1/4 panel tomorrow, I was gonna use single stage nason but will try the base instead.
I am using the transtar no mix base. My work has had it for maybe 2 years. I have just taken over as our only painter this week. I have been over reducing it and it still goes on a little ruff. I have sprayed maybe 7-8 things so far. I might reduce it a bit more.
When I get some free time I’m gonna play with spraying some base with the different guns that around. The lv500 blending base seems the only thing that lays down nice.
Color match is horendous. painted 2 fords with UJ and the color has no variants, no color chip and isn’t even close. 2nd car I basically made my own, switched the 2 aluminum tints to change the metallic left out the blue and added green and way more black. I got it pretty close after 3 spray out cards. Last car was a nisssan rab blue, had no variants again and it was just wrong, blended it and its ok but have not seen it outside.
The last painter that we had was useless so I never really asked him what he was doing cause it was a flip of a coin whether it was done the first time no matter what paint was used.My work has 2 cross draft booths with no air makeup units. The bake lights are on tracks. They don’t work so they have not been used in a very long time. Filters are on the doors. They do say Devilbiss on them. They have a huge amount of airflow.
Thats good to hear, I liked that stuff.
[quote=”Ben” post=25365]I’ve used the Snap Dry LE5400. It is a very fast clear, good for smaller jobs (up to 2…maybe 3 panels if you are fast). It flashes relatively quick and is out of dust super fast. 2 hour air dry or about 20 minutes with a heat lamp, but be careful not to boil the stuff. Has a reasonable finish and is pretty easy yo use. Definitely not a high end clear, but plenty good for fleet work.
I haven’t tried the LE5100, but I have heard it is decent, it should be better for the medium-large jobs compared to the 5400. Again, not a high end product, but probably what I would choose for fleet.
I would think that 1 or both of these should do good in a fleet shop. If you happen to be doing lots of small jobs and blow ins, the 5400 would be ideal.
Are you guys using Cromax or Nason for your base?[/quote]
We have the Transtar no mix base system. Used to be Chroma premier. We switched to low voc in the fall of last year. They wanted us to get new booths to go water so that will never happen. Also using Nason fulthane 2.8.
We have the snap clear.[quote=”Ben” post=25342][quote=”Glen440″ post=25335][quote=”ding”
So you were using structural adhesives for plastic repair :blink:[/quote]
I was told it was one product did everything. The shop owner is the one who told us to use it for plastic.
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/info/?product=201&category=24The 3m is a one product does everything. And it really does. Never had it not stick to plastic.
If they claim something, they better be able to do it.[/quote]
:blink:
We used tons of that Pro-Form when I was in the heavy truck shop. Great stuff. We used it to bond SMC and fiberglass (ie: rigid plastic) hoods together. It is supposed to get soft when heated, that is how you seperate parts (like on multi-piece hoods on Volvos and other trucks).
I can’t see that working at all of flexible plastic containing poly-olefin.
And the 3M panel bond, 8115, were you using that on plastics as well?[/quote]
My issue with the Pro Form was sanding it, if you heated it with the Da or grinder it started peeling. I could then pull it off. It may be fine for everything else. We had it at that shop the whole time I was there (6 years) I started using 3m for plastic and Pro Form for door skins because 3m does not have a medium dry time product, basically the slow which is 4 hour clamp time. You heat it to speed it up.
The 3m I fix bumpers with it and bake the stuff with heat gun or heat lamp to dry it. It likes heat, I think its epoxy based where Pro Form is urethane based. I have not had it not stick yet, I don’t even use adhesion promoter. I can grind it and sand it with the DA.
Lord Fusor and Duramix had specific products for what you were doing so I had no issues with them. I used Duramix for 3 years and fusor for 1.
[quote=”ding”
So you were using structural adhesives for plastic repair :blink:[/quote]
I was told it was one product did everything. The shop owner is the one who told us to use it for plastic.
http://www.proformproducts.com/en/products/info/?product=201&category=24The 3m is a one product does everything. And it really does. Never had it not stick to plastic.
If they claim something, they better be able to do it.
I used the green Pro form at the last shop I was at. I had too many adhesion issues with it on plastic repairs. I tried adhesion promoters as well. I also found if you heated it after it was cured it got soft again. Same trying to sand it. We also had some patch failures with it. seperated out in the heat. I didn’t use it for patching but other guys did at the shop. you can really cook the 3m stuff with no issues. I use the heat lamps on it with no issues. I don’t use adhesion promoter with the 3m and it sticks. I’ll bake the stuff to speed up the drying. I can grind it and it stays hard and does not peel off the plastic.
Maybe the Pro Form is better now, its been 6 years at least since I used it.
I only use panel bond to do wheel lips on 1/4 replacement and door skins with metal, the rest is fiberglass and plastic repairs. I doubt I ever had a metal repair failure that I knew of because its also welded so I judge the material with plastics.
I have used a few kinds. Started with Dura-mix which I’m pretty sure 3m bought and killed, but it was good. I used Lord fusor. I used Pro Form as well which I really don’t like. I now use 3m for everything, 1 product does it all.
We were using fast panel bond as seam sealer at the last shop I was at. Hard to match some factory thick sealer and get it to go hard.Thanks
I cut my intro a bit short.
I work in East York, Ontario. Basically Toronto.
They are trying to get me to start painting after 1 of the 2 painters retired at the start of the year.
I painted as an apprentice with the RM diamont system. Last time I painted anything was almost 6 years ago.Maybe I’ll get in the booth this week.