John Cirino
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I have been using Picklex 20 for years. Can’t say enough good about it. Not cheap, but does the job.
This stuff rocks! Read about it works great on bare metal and promotes welding while stopping corrosion.
And no, I don’t work for either of these companies.
I use the PPG DP epoxy all the time. You can fill over it without sanding during a certain window of time. I am uncomfortable with that so I scuff it with a red scotchbright pad then fill.
Epoxy doesn’t sand well but if you use some 330 per cleaner as a lubricant and some 220 or 320 it will sand real nice without loading up the paper.
Both methods work real well and I’ve never had issues with either process.
Try this Evercoat product.. it’s a polyester and has fiberglass in it.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=304
I use soda blasting equipment frequently and have had quite a learning curve with it. The residue left behind on the metal is alkaline and requires an acid to bring the ph back to normal. As good as epoxy is…. it will not adhere to the soda residue. I usually have to use a red scotch bright pad and anything acidic, or something similar, like PPG metal prep and some soapy water. A good washing is required afterward. Many a painter has been burnt by soda blasting and won’t touch it anymore. You just have to understand it. It also will not remove rust or harm glass, plastic or rubber. If you miss a spot you’ll know it and will have to prep and re-touch with epoxy.
I use the Norton system and a Hutchins water bug DA with intermediate pad and get fantastic results. I hit it with 1000, 1500 then 3000. I then rub it out with the Farecla compound products. I know everyone has their own system. This works great for me on big buck paint jobs that require a killer finish. Careful not to get any dirt between the pad and the finish or you’ll leave some nasty DA scratch tracks. Use plenty of water and flush frequently.