Mike Murphy
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I like my Sagola and my Sata. Sagola sprays great, cleans up easy, and has held up great so far. Some things I really like about the Sata are how the air cap is almost a single turn on/off, and the cup is the same way. The Sagola cap is about a 4 turn. Same with the cup. Not a huge deal, just something I found I like about the Sata. I have had trouble with the Sata digial gauge pretty much since I got it, but never enough to want to put it down. Never enough to even bother looking into why either. Sagola digital gauge is working great, but the control for the pressure is an add on part. Something I didnt know when I bought it and would prefer if it were part of the gun. The reason I get digitals is because I use the supplied cups, and it can be difficult to paint under rockers and such with a long gun. Just some differences I have seen. I think if I could find Sata guns for the prices other guys here get them at, it would have been a much more difficult decision for me between the two. I got my Sagolas for about $350 each, and the price for Sata that I have found in my area were $750 or more. For me that was a big difference for what I felt was the same tool.
Jayson, Im curious why you say to skip K36. I tried to get some K38 the last time I made an order and they were backordered on it. So I got the K36 instead. Seemed to work ok, but was a bit thinner.
I tried a red scotchbrite and scuff stuff on the one before this one and I just wasnt confident it was enough. I was also a bit worried that it may have some imperfections I would miss without sanding it.
This one turned out decent. And lucked out cuz the color even matched.Yeah that takes up much of my time. Squeegy and drying to see where im at.
I will try that next time. Always a bit leery about using the DA on these for fear of breaking through the primer and adding more work to the job.
Sorry I misread. So you use a DA with and interface pad? Ive been going at it 100% by hand.
Thats pretty much what I am doing, but its taking me closer to an hour. I do use the soft Durablock. Maybe its still a bit too hard for this job? Its the soft block that is like 1/2″ thick dense foam feeling?
[quote=”Jayson M” post=33673]Not all bumpers come primed,nissan,toyota,hyundai are all bare plastic.An oem primed bumper is ok,but most aftermarket primed bumpers should be stripped.[/quote]
99% of the collision work we do is GM (most of our work is run off from the GM dealership). I did do a Nissan a few months back that came raw.
They are OE. Primer doesnt come off with solvent.
The new bumper covers we get always come in primer.
Good to know! I bought a few old 1970’s Honda ATC 70cc three wheelers and I was considering painting the plastics. Would need something that would stay flexy.
I always thought flex agent was only temporary. Like only flexy for a few days. No info to back it up though.
[quote=”ScottB” post=33450]What are people doing that they can’t get sealer to lay flat? Laying down is inherent in it’s design. As far as sealer showing in jambs, just double tape like Jayson says.[/quote]
For me it was pretty early on in my career last I used sealer and I dont remember. Just remember it have some texture. Never really had a need for sealer on the restos before. A good catylized primer has always been fine. In the last year I have been in a new shop and they do things weird, but im working on changing things (and the way I do some things).
Why would I want to do that?! Im restoring bad ass muscle cars while your blending Kias!
I have only used sealer a couple of times, but as was mentioned, it didnt seem as flat as sanded primer to me. Seemed like it had just a bit of texture to it.
