Mike Murphy
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Ok thanks. Im glad you mentioned it because I asked about it today and they recommended DPLF. I will read the tech sheet and see how to mix the K36 as a sealer. I assume just add reducer.
Yeah I was thinking about that too. I have a couple small break throughs (couple edges). Will the sealer be ok over them? Or should I blow a little spray bomb epoxy on them first?
I forgot that I had already spray bomb guide coated the 220’d Slick sand (just the tub). So i went ahead and wet sanded it with 400. Will spray the K36 on that and probably 400 that as well. And I will be sanding to 600 before painting this one. I really dont want to seal it if I dont have to.
I cant go right to 600 after the K36 can I? Would it be better to reduce the K36 4:1:1?
Jayson, thanks for the push. I just got the go ahead to spray some 2k on this gto before paint. Big rush now because in was planning to paint it Saturday and now there is another step, so I’m hoping I can spray the 2k over the 220 slick sand and go right to 400 wet.
I understand that, but not one of them has done it. And im right with you, I dont want to do it, but I have to there. If nothing else it is a simple waste of time. Just stating, we do it, and so far its working great. Most of our work is repeat buisness, so far there must not be any complaints.
My Sata 3000 digtial has a seal leaking (With the air turned all the way off the lowest I can go down to is 13 psi). But I have had it 10 years trouble free. Coming up on one year on the Sagolas, but I use them much more than I did the Sata initially as well. No problems so far.
Probably should be done that way, but we are painting right on top of it and no problems SO FAR. In fact I have to do the seam sealer on it tomorrow, then another day to wetsand, and I will be spraying a 67 GTO Hardtop (7th GTO this year). Just about ready to seam seal a 69 Chevelle vert, wetsand, and it will be ready for paint too. Things are moving right along. The 69 Daytona bottom was blasted today and I got it in DP, tomorrow the tub gets blasted, and bodywork will be underway on it.
I will do that, and im not going to beat this to death, but bondo doesnt say it can be painted on but slick sand does. So it must not be the same as.
Although on the tech sheet, it doesnt list poly as a surface it can be sprayed on, I cant find anything that says you CANT use it. I doubt that sheet will be enough to change their minds.
If anyone could find some literature stating it shouldnt be done you would be doing me a huge favor. Then I would have a leg to stand on for my argument.
Yeah i obviously have no way to tell if it will last or not. But for all I know it may outlast a regular job. No real way to tell. I would say that slick sand is surely more durable than any 2k primers. Just seems to me it would be pourous. But there has been nothing I have seen to prove that. For sure takes more time though. And we never shoot any sealer over it. Just paint right over.
And I seriously doubt they use it because of cost. In the long run a couple hundred more in materials would be nothing. These are all full frame off nut and bolt restos. No expense spared.
I have only been there for 1 year, but I have seen ones that were done long before I started and they look great still. But its so hard to tell on this type of resto because they are garage queens. All 100k cars and up for sure. We had a 57 Chevy come in that they said they did a long time ago (someone ran into him) and it looked like it was restored yesterday.
I also agree that poly is often used as a crutch. And maybe in the past they had a lot that had to be redone or something, so they simply go right to round 2 with it again. I know the first full resto I did there, which was a 65 GTO convertible, I did slick sand then 2k turned out great too, and surely took less time. But they simply wont hear of doing it that way anymore?
I will take a look at the tech sheet for PPG but im sure there is noting that says you cant spray on poly. The rep is there all the time, so it has to be known that it is being done that way.
I will say that my arms are pretty much jacked all the time from the amount of sanding I do on these cars!2 days ago I had to block out a Chevelle hood that was sprayed with Slick Sand at least a year ago. It was hard as concrete! Harder than any old filler or anything else I have ever had to sand before. I also get zero shrinkage, and there are times I really pound it on. In fact I believe I could spray out 36 grit scratches and never have to worry about them ever showing back through. It is an amazing locker. And like $70 for a gallon is hard to beat. But on the last prime, it would be nice to spray something (for me) that went on a little nicer. Been spraying it with some no name gun with a 2.3 tip and almost no thinner.
I have a puck of it from the cup in my toolbox as well, probably more like 2″ thick, no cracks or anything. I have one with the Superbuild too that is pretty much the same, but it seemed to me to be a little harder to sand initially.
You dont have to tell me man! I have no idea why they do it? I dont know about anyone else here, but Ive have never been able to get slick sand to lay out nice. Not even close to how 2k sprays. But I will say that it seems that the slick sand makes a nice candy shell and holds down really really well. These cars are stunning when they are done and there never any problems at all.
After the 220 I blow it off real well, wipe with wax and grease remover, and then guide coat it to be sure I get all the scratches out. Really isnt too bad to do. But it is real hard mentally to sand the whole car flat after the slick sand knowing your going to just spray more of the super orange peely slick sand back on again. Wanna have some real fun, spray slick sand on the inner part of the front fender of these old cars and sand that back out. Or on the cowl and firewall. Super fun. Hours and hours of finger banging all the crevaces. Obviously I dont do it by choice, but they wont budge on how its done.Very true. I believe they have been doing it that way for 3+ years though. And im not saying its right or wrong. Just what we do. And the tech sheet says to finish it with 400-600 grit paper wet or dry and that it doesn’t require a sealer prior to top coats. And we are using PPG.
I usually strip the car, epoxy/bodywork, then 3 coats of slick sand and block with 120, spray 2 more coats, block with 220 then 400-600 depending on metallics or not.