Mike Murphy
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We base right on the Slick Sand. No troubles so far.
I think this dude is going to stroke out any day!! I’ve never seen someone so stressed out before!
The old guy is the manager sadly.
Thanks guys. I will try to do that. Ran into another snag with the old guy today. Anything I order has to go through him and he doesn’t like spending money. I told him I wanted to get some foam backed sand paper today. He told me to use a rock!! Ugh. I gotta do something here!! I think its time for a meeting with the chief.
Yeah I think its partially hollow from the manufacturing process. I measure it and I really cant squeeze it together any. Id like to just find something I can fill the void with so its good and solid. Then do a normal type repair.
It says it shouldnt be more than 1/4″ thick so I may need something else in there to help fill the hollow spot before I use something like fiber tech. If I do that, I may as well fill it far enough that i can just use some Duraglass that we already have at the shop.
Yeah you know me bro…I will lay some Slick Sand on it.
Unfortunately, I cant get to the back side to repair it. I have to find a way to fill that cavity, unless I am misunderstanding what some of you are saying. The spoiler is a few inches thick, and in the crack there is an empty cavity I have to fill. Could I use fiberglass matte and resin that I could maybe soak the matte in the resin, then stuff it down into the crack to add some strength?
I did v out the crack the best I could, like I said its semi hollow in there so there was very little to v. Then i used a roloc to knock the top off so i had some room for building.
My biggest concern is the hollow area inside. Whatever I use I have to pack it in there to strengthen it. I’m not too worried about finishing it, that shouldn’t be too bad to do. The local rep recommended I get “fibertech”. I have to call tomorrow and find out what it is. He said its what they use to fix cracks in semi’s.
Ok cool. I have a 3/32 throw that I got to do wetsanding clear with that never worked for me. So I will probly be using it with an interface pad to prep blends etc.
Yeah the problem is the boss bows to him. So really I dont have a lot of say in it. But I think if I just do my thing and get shit done, and it looks great, they wont say anything at all.
I didnt know there was a difference between a palm sander and a DA? Will have to look into that. We use some variation of the foam backed paper. Its listed as fine and superfine, I believe its 3m. I will have to look and see what kind of grits they list them as. Is a grey scotchbrite and scuff paste acceptable to prep a blend?
Thanks man. The old guy and our PPG rep butt heads like crazy. So I know his word will not be good enough.
I looked at a DBC tech sheet earlier and it says to prep for paint with 400-600 grit paper, so i wont be able to use that to get him to use 600 grit, or convince the boss I need to.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdbcp.pdfJayson (or anyone else) do you know where I could find some paperwork that states the bumper should be sealed. Im gunna need proof of this kind of thing when I make my case.
I know brother. You guys told me that before, and I wanted to. But hes the boss and said no sealer so…
But the old guy left and a while later the real boss showed up and I told him things were going to start being done correctly, and if he, or the old guy didnt like it, he could go ahead and fire me. He said he was glad to hear me say I wanted to do things right. So we will see how much of a fit the old guy throws when I start doing things “my” way.
The old guy was here for 8 years, left for 7 months, and is now back. And the owner told me nothing ever came back that he did. Thats all I can go on.
Im hoping that I can learn correct procedure here and tech sheet/manufacturer recommendations, and some hands on experience from the old guy and merge them. I just need to get a rhythm going and should be fine.Yeah it will work out. I learn more everyday. Some days less than others though! Like today I used a grey scotchbrite and scuff paste to prep the new bumper cover. Didn’t need to seal it because it came in black primer. But I really should have blocked it because it ended up have a slight little line in it that I missed. Bummer but all I can do is modify how I handle it next time.
And yeah I shouldn’t worry about what he does, but its hard because he can really whip this stuff out quick and NEVER has a comeback. But I am going to start doing things the correct way and just hope the speed comes. I am doing OK on this car. 15.5 hour repair and I am into it for 7.5 hours. Just have to nib it and put the grills in the bumper and put the bumper back on. I’m guessing 3 hours tops to do that. So I am ahead of the game so far.