Mike Murphy
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Thanks for the help guys. Got it done and under time. Now if I can get it back on without jacking it up. Turned out OK. Not great, but not too bad either. Thanks again for all your support! Had a really tough time seeing today. Must be time for a booth repaint and replace the light covers.
I sprayed at 15 psi but my fan was full, and it looked good none the less (even though I know know it wasnt correct practice and havent done it since). And lets be honest, the pics I post are as good or close to it as anything else I see around. Also, the other guys posting pics have sprayed a million times more than i have. I dont expect to be able to impress anyone, let alone a bunch of pros for quite a while. Dont get enough gun time to make that happen.
Fair enough. Just seems like anytime I post, I get my ass kicked. Maybe its me? I just want to be the best i can be, and looking for a place to hone my shit. Tons of pros here and cant think of a place with the collective knowledge there is here.
You can laugh all you want but youve seen the pics….im freekin getting there with that gun!! And you know how I feel about the primer gun!
I guess I better place an order right away because I dont have any of that stuff. Unfortunately…..basing over 400 is regularly done at the shop :S Something id like to get away from. But since Im spraying with a Sagola, I guess I may as well since its such a joke of a gun! :rofl
[quote=”ding” post=31524][quote=”gtome” post=31504]What do you guys think about hand sanding vs DA sanding. I notice the old guy at work uses his DA WAAAY more than I use mine, and he also destroys me on repair times. How do you decide when/where its ok to use a DA? Like the OP I also nitpick when I do things and it probably doubles my repair time.
I did a repair on a 2012 Camaro late in the day on Friday. Had to remove the bumper (to replace it and the grills) and the repair was right at the front tip where the fender meets the bumper. I hammered it out to as close as I could get it because of the funky shape and location if the damage near the edge. Then I ground off the paint in the area and feathered it back a bit. Then spread my filler and knocked it down with 80 grit since it was pretty close to good (sometimes I hit it with 36 grit to speed it up). Then blocked the flat edge with a small block and by hand (on a taco block) on the curved part. I then decided to try Slick Sand for the primer to fill pinholes and give me a little more material to work with in case I wasnt dead on with the filler, then sprayed my guide. Thats where I left it. Is it a terrible thing to use Slick Sand in this situation? Also, I plan to start with 220 to knock down the Slick Sand, then step to 400, then 600. What im thinking is starting with the 220 on a hand block, then maybe once I go to 400, using the DA. Obviously I would need to run 800-1000 to complete the panel, and normally would just do it all by hand. Id like to get more friendly with my DA and for sure once im past 400 grit or so, let the DA do the work. Any advice in this situation?[/quote]
See, in your original post you said you were going to use Slick Sand for primer, hit it with 220, then 400 then 600. Then suddenly after it was mentioned that basing over slick sand was not a good idea, you were suddenly going to come back and spray it with 3055. well what were you really going to do? Sorry, but this isnt Lens site. No one is spewing Bullshit to try and sell the latest greatest paint gun or rust preventor. If you want to ask a question, be prepared to get a truthful answer. you want bullshit and fairytales, well you know where to go :pcorn:[/quote]See…..same shit. Attacked for the gun I use.
You just proved a point I should have brought up before. I have been attacked here from the beginning because of the gun I use. I get as good a spray from it and most do from anything else so it simply isnt fair to even say that. And I guess I can go research somewhere else. I was under the impression this was a place to learn. But, we are really jacking up the OP’s post so I will start a new thread that you guys can get me on rather than here.
[quote=”MoCoke” post=31519][quote=”gtome” post=31514]Yeah ding really the reason I used it this time was because I had a few pinnys and it wasnt an absolutely perfect repair. That area is super flimsey, curved in all directions, and I didnt get it just right. So I figured rather than to skim it again with poly filler, then primer I would spray SS and get it leveled off perfect. Then come back with the 3055 surfacer. That stuff damn near sprays like base coat. So come in with 2 coats of that and knock it down with 600 wet. Come back with maybe 800-1000 on the DA and sand the rest of the panel. Or I suppose I could use a grey scotchbrite and some paste too. Either way.
By the way if it werent Friday night I would have just skimmed it with poly filler so i wouldnt have to wait for primer to dry twice. No baking at my shop.[/quote]
ive noticed you always have an excuse for your workmanship; be it being your booth, the weather, the paint, the size of the panel, the day of week, time of day, the compressor, the humidity, the spray gun, the other painter… honestly idk how your coworkers react towards you but id fire you if you couldnt just do your best without complaining.
every painter/ body man faces problems or challenges with every repair but a good tech can make things work without a cover story and thats what makes this trade an art.[/quote]
There isnt really an excuse there, just telling why I did what I did. Its not complaining? Also i dont think how I did things is wrong. It may not be the best process, but its what I decided to do given the circumstance. And the reason I post it up here is to learn from others. If I knew how to do everything the best, I wouldnt need to be here. What I notice, is there is always some asshole here ready to criticise me (like you) instead of helping. Isnt helping part of why there is a forum?
Thanks Ben. I think I have a hard time because the guy I work with has been at this for 40+ years and he can spread filler and never touch it with a hand block and its dead nuts on. He literally can do a repair in 10 minutes that may take me 2 hours to do.
I come from a restoration background and I learned that once filler is knocked down, never touch it with a DA. But those are show cars and havent been straight in 20 years and need to look laser straight when your done. Collision work on used cars dont really need that sort of perfection. So i would like to use a DA more often, and feel it would greatly speed up repairs. Especially like you said, to prep blend panels and such that are alrady straight. I am going to begin doing things my own way there as well. The guy I work with is really set in his ways, and I think processes have changed which means they way we do them should as well. For instance, he never finished a full panel in anything finer than 400 (except for blends of course) and I feel 600 or even 800 would be more appropriate especially for metallics. He does paint right over poly primer, and never seals new parts.
I had a meeting with the rep and the boss and we got a product training course set up to do in a couple months, so I am excited about learning product process correctly too. But for now I have a pretty decent grip on what to do, just need to find little ways to speed things up a bit. I have also beed given extra responsibilities to do the parts ordering as well. Ugh..Yeah ding really the reason I used it this time was because I had a few pinnys and it wasnt an absolutely perfect repair. That area is super flimsey, curved in all directions, and I didnt get it just right. So I figured rather than to skim it again with poly filler, then primer I would spray SS and get it leveled off perfect. Then come back with the 3055 surfacer. That stuff damn near sprays like base coat. So come in with 2 coats of that and knock it down with 600 wet. Come back with maybe 800-1000 on the DA and sand the rest of the panel. Or I suppose I could use a grey scotchbrite and some paste too. Either way.
By the way if it werent Friday night I would have just skimmed it with poly filler so i wouldnt have to wait for primer to dry twice. No baking at my shop.
What do you guys think about hand sanding vs DA sanding. I notice the old guy at work uses his DA WAAAY more than I use mine, and he also destroys me on repair times. How do you decide when/where its ok to use a DA? Like the OP I also nitpick when I do things and it probably doubles my repair time.
I did a repair on a 2012 Camaro late in the day on Friday. Had to remove the bumper (to replace it and the grills) and the repair was right at the front tip where the fender meets the bumper. I hammered it out to as close as I could get it because of the funky shape and location if the damage near the edge. Then I ground off the paint in the area and feathered it back a bit. Then spread my filler and knocked it down with 80 grit since it was pretty close to good (sometimes I hit it with 36 grit to speed it up). Then blocked the flat edge with a small block and by hand (on a taco block) on the curved part. I then decided to try Slick Sand for the primer to fill pinholes and give me a little more material to work with in case I wasnt dead on with the filler, then sprayed my guide. Thats where I left it. Is it a terrible thing to use Slick Sand in this situation? Also, I plan to start with 220 to knock down the Slick Sand, then step to 400, then 600. What im thinking is starting with the 220 on a hand block, then maybe once I go to 400, using the DA. Obviously I would need to run 800-1000 to complete the panel, and normally would just do it all by hand. Id like to get more friendly with my DA and for sure once im past 400 grit or so, let the DA do the work. Any advice in this situation?
[quote=”ScottB” post=31260][quote=”gtome” post=31246] I do have the digital gauge and as you said, I had some battery trouble with it and it occasionally shows 4 psi on the stand. I just take that into account when I spray, but like you, I mostly go by sound.[/quote]
You should be using a gauge. On another site you stated you sprayed without one, and your best guess was it was 22PSI or so. The objective of this profession is to comprehend, improve and perfect product control. Hard to do that with inaccurate pressure monitoring.[/quote]Agreed. That was a post about using my mini gun that I rarely use. I did order a Divilbiss digital regulator for it though (for the mini and the 3300 pro primer gun). I will say I varied pressure when I sprayed that single stage. From (guessing) say 12 to 30 psi and it didnt seem to make any difference? Only thing I could really tell that was different, was at higher pressures, I was getting more overspray on adjacent panels (im assuming you saw what I was painting and know what I mean by that). But for sure want to use a regulator on that gun if for nothing else, because the air pressure adjustment is uber sensitive. It will go from (guessing) 15 psi to like 50 psi with just a touch on the knob…. and I do hit it often.
I did the same thing with the same gun. It was pretty much my only gun for a super long time. Sprayed everything with it and it performed flawlessly everytime. I do have the digital gauge and as you said, I had some battery trouble with it and it occasionally shows 4 psi on the stand. I just take that into account when I spray, but like you, I mostly go by sound.
I agree that a 2 stage paint would be a better way to start. Getting into the tri-stage can be difficult and really pricey. I did a pearl white tri-stage yesterday on a topper with Dupont and it was damn near $500 for just a quart of base and a quart of pearl (retail). A 2 stage pearl will look very good still but be much easier and very likely much cheaper to do. I have used 2 stage pearl House of Kolor that looked real nice and wasnt all that expensive. Maybe limetime would be close enough for you?
How well do guns like these atomize since your spraying at such high pressure?
