ABDUL CHATILA
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Nice work!
If you can find a local jobber that sells RM paints then you can get everything you need from them in the RM line, Sikkens is good too. There are many it just depends how much you want to spend. I shoot RM Diamont and I have NEVER had a problem with lifting like you had. You need to strip what you’ve done down to where you started, shoot a quality sealer and then base and clear. Good luck and yes, you learn from your mistakes but typically not on someone else’s car.
Just to give you guys an update, I told Progressive that I wasn’t going to repair it and that if they didn’t want to replace it I was going to contact the customer and let him know what was going on. After a short argument with the adjuster and then his manager :chair they finally agreed that it needed to be replaced.
It’s crazy how many corners the insurance company wants to cut on repairs. If the vehicle had been steered to a DRP shop like they initially tried to do, the repair would have been done incorrectly and the customer would have had no idea…:unsure:
Problem is you’re spraying Dupont…
:welc
I use RM and I think it’s extremely user friendly. When blending metallics I always lay a wetbed and most of the time I will move up one reducer level to slow it down. It gives the metallics a little more time to lay out correctly. If you are spraying in 80 degrees you should definatley be using UR60 anyways, with the UR50 your metallics are drying too fast and causing the mottling. I shoot with a Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3 and have no problems at all. Good luck and be sure to ask if you have any problems. You will be sure to get the most help from the guys on this site!:welc
Looks good Ben :rock
Welcome!
I would shoot the clear base as an orientation coat as stone said so when you blend your metallics lay down correctly and then re-clear the entire fender but then with that color silver you are not going to have a match with the door. The extra coat of clear that will be on the fender is going to make it appear darker… Either way, I wouldn’t attempt a clear blend if you have never tried before. Good luck!
Really impressive job. Did a job like that a couple months ago on a brand new Hyundai. I can tell you it’s intense when you get into inner quarters and such.
It’s a type of primer that they use before gluing the glass back in. We also sub out all of our glue-in glass work and I watch him use the stuff every time he does a windshield.
Awesome job!
1.3 is the way to go for sure.
[quote=”timbo” post=15687]Takes application to make it look that way huh..HA! try the poly trick on that one.
;)[/quote]
Not trying to jack the thread but what is the poly trick?Give the 5300 a try and maybe give an extra couple mins of flash before clearing. Stay away from DC92 though unless you like sanding runs….