Charles Smith
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Are you flat rate or hourly?
I found that code in the computer, but it will not pull up a mix for it. I am guessing that it might be to old of a color. I think I might look at viper blue instead. Its going on a 78 elcamino. I don’t want this color to be an issue with matching it later on down the road if need be.
Thanks for the help
Chuck
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36706]Ok thanks for the info and we have the same recommendation about our sealer.The best way is to strip it but sikkens did come out with a waterborne sealer for aftermarket covers that works pretty good.Aftermarket covers are a pain in the ass……[/quote]
Jason,
Can you use use this sealer under solvent? I spray autobase plus. I would like to stay within the same paint line if at all possible. When discussing this with my paint rep he told me what some shops were doing was to prime it with a waterborne primer and that would lock down the crappy keystone stuff. But then I would have to go back and sand it again adding more labor to the equation. I also was told that I could use lesonal h’s surfacer sealer and that should fix the primer lifting issue. I guess the lesonal isn’t as aggressive as the color build plus.Chuck
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36686]I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.[/quote]I will try that with the extra slow activator and see where that gets me. Any thoughts on using bulldog as a barrier coat before sealing? I talked to a rep from keystone about our issues and asked him what the chances of getting raw plastic bumpers in and he told me that they have no control over how they are shipped to them. They at least agreed to pay us to repaint them when their primer busts loose and the customer brings it back in. But that still makes us look bad to the customer.
Chuck
Well started sanding and buffing on this thing today. Did a quick wipe sand on it with 800 wet, the knocked out all the trash with 1000 then 1500. Let it gas out for a few hours then hit it again with 1500/3000 da. It buffed fairly easy using just a foam pad and wizard mystic cut. Overall I think I am pretty happy with the system. I have got to get a better setup to paint these end caps though. Climbing up and down a ladder made it impossible to keep a wet edge while I was painting. I managed to get a few runs in it. But I kind of expected it with some of the hard to get to areas that I had to do. Basically had to narrow my fan down and hose it on like a squirt gun in a few spots. Just couldn’t get the reach on it. Still not real sure on how long to wait in between coats though. The data sheet said that you can put your first coat on then cross coat your second one. But I normally try to put at least 3 coats on these things to allow for plenty of buffing. So I am not sure if it would be best to allow each coat to get hand slick before applying the next one.
Chuck
I just shot the first two coats on the end cap. Started out with my lph400 1.4 combo and quickly switched over to a w400lv4 1.4. Just couldnt keep a wet edge with the lph. Kinda expected that though, was trying to keep the overspray down. I like the way you can slam it on and not have to worry about running it. It covers really well. I will let you know tomorrow how it buffs. I am using it to paint end caps on travel trailers. I was just base clearing them before but I figured I would try the Utech on this one.
Chuck
[quote=”Tylerbrooks12″ post=36051]I use the ws400evo 1.3hd as well and I love it. It seems to shoot pretty much any clear well that I have tried. Its more of a compliant/rp style gun and I find its abit slower then the ls, but that suits my style being abit slower I find I’m very consistent. My coworker uses a ls400 for clear and recently bought the entech tip set for it and used it for a couple month then swiched back to the silver tip again[/quote]
Have you tried the 1.4hd? I demo’d the thing and found it to drink the clear so I opted for the same setup that you have. But I have found myself wishing that I had more speed out of the thing. But it does do a good job at laying the clear, as long as it is clean.
Chuck
You shouldn’t need any more than 16 psi when shooting base. If you are having problems with your base mottleing, make sure your using the correct speed reducer. I know some guys will have problems getting Sherwin Williams to lay right. It atomized it to much. For your clear try setting your gun to about 22 with the trigger fully pulled, about 5 in from the panel. Iwata has a forum that you can go on and they can give you alot of tips on gun adjustment.
Chuck
Went thru this same situation two years ago. We had a full time pdr guy for about three months with us. A lot of the panels that he thought he could fix ended up being repaired conventionally. All you have to do is submit a supplement. Just get with the adjuster who cut the check and ask them how they want to approach it, You will find that the adjusters are overwhelmed and just want to satisfy the claim. Any way that you can make their job easier could result in more work headed your way.
We found a few ways to speed things up when it came to panel replacement. We painted most of our roof skins off the car. Grind the backside and prep for panelbond, make a few holes for your spot welds, then paint as normal. The next day we panel bonded them on and made the necessary spot welds in your corners.
For your panels that require conventional repair,Evercoat has a great video on youtube that shows a procedure that will speed things up quite a bit.Chuck
[quote=”ScottB” post=34836]PPG code is 917278, tri coat and not cheap. Many Goldwings are tri coat. Hopefully you did not beat yourself up too badly on the estimate.[/quote]
I got ahold of a PPG jobber on friday. for just a quart of ground coat and a pint of pearl and a gal of reducer it was $750.00. I have to get ahold of the guy and see if he wants to go through with it. I gave him a price with labor plus materials. I didnt really take this on to make any money, just thought that it would be something different to do for a good customer. I have to get ahold of him on Monday to see if he still wants to do it or not. He didnt really say one way or another what his budget is.
Chuck
We have a PPG supplier that is not to far away. I will get ahold of the owner and see if he can take it by and get something matched up. I dont know of any place around here I can get Glasurit at. Hopefully this will work out without to much of a pain. I priced this thing really cheap because he is a good customer and I thought that it would be something different to paint. Thanks for the help and I will let you know how it works out.
Chuck
I use a sri pro all the time for spotting in jambs, give yourself alot more room than you think that you will need and try to flick your base in as you were describing, when I clear I generally try to keep all my wet edges straight and go in the direction of the smallest area ( if that makes any sence ) so I can add some blending solvent and step it out a few times that way it will give me a little more room to hand rub and get rid of your clear line, I generally use some superduty compound to prep my area that I plan on burning in at, that will clean it up good and normally will give your clear something to bite into. I also use alot of the 3m transition tape and make my burn in area as small as possible.
Chuck
Yeah spraying abp
When are you doing your drop coat? Debeer likes the drop coat done right before your base flashes. Dont let it dry first like most bases.
Chuck
I went in today and did a few jobs with it. All of them were small jobs, 3 panels max. Everything turned out good but I gave it about 10 minutes to flash in between coats. It was pretty cold this morning and I don’t have heat in the booth, but as the day went on I was able to sped it up some. Everything looked good when I left, so we will see what they look like on Monday. I was told that the superior 250 would have a hard time without a bake booth and alot of airflow. One of my main concerns is running the booth fans to long and killing all the heat in the shop. I did that the other night and panel temps dropped real fast and my clear was wanting to take off on me.
Chuck