Charles Smith
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What do you think that he should do from this point on? I was kinda wondering about the hardener myself but I dont know anyone that uses Nason that puts the stuff in. I seriously doubt that the place that even sells the stuff even sells a gallon of it a year.I had told him that he should put hardener in all the colors on this thing from here on out just to minimize any issues that might come up.
I found that if I soak my mirka in a mixing cup with a few drops of soap between uses it cuts down on the pigtails. Just rinse it out before use.
Chuck
Where did you find these and whats the price compared to the Mirka? I have been using the Mirka 3000 for awhile now, I stopped using the 2000 due to the pigtail issues that you described earlier.
Chuck
Real nice! What is your normal procedure for filling fiberglass parts like that? I really like the way that turned out.
Chuck
If we change really isn’t up to me, it’s more or a financial decision from the powers to be. If it was really up to me I would stick to the current system or maybe even switch to the Lesonal line. I know both of those can perform well in our shop and I can get predictable results. I am just not really sure that our shop is really set up to spray water. And I really don’t want some salesman trying to put band aids on things and then we get stuck with a system that won’t perform well.
I have never sprayed water and don’t really know enough about it to talk educated about it. But I know every company will try to wow you about why changing to them will be best for you. We have a few shops in our area that spray ppg and I haven’t heard anything bad about it and anyone that I talk to that sprays waterborne says that they wouldn’t go back to solvent. So what upgrades would I really need in order to make it work. And how does water perform in cold weather? In the winter it really be a struggle to keep the building up to a decent temp.Chuck
[quote=”salbert55″ post=32069]I have a question that anybody knows the procedure of the door skin installation? How to remove old door skin and replace with the new one. I appreciated if anybody will guide me?
[url=http://www.unitedcarcare.com.au/services/mechanical-services.php]Learn about mechanical repair in details[/url][/quote]
Go on youtube and their is a ton of videos on it. But probably the biggest tip I can give you is to make sure you fit the door before you tack weld anything in place. I have seen to many guys not take 10 minutes to prefit it and then spend an hour with a big hammer and half gallon of mud trying to make it right.
Chuck
Stuff works real good. Sets up really fast and is pretty runny though. But I am not having any more issues with the repair ripping back out though. Heres a link to the you tube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INLpg-aKUz8 . Still need to get another tube so I can finish up tomorrow night.
Chuck
I picked up some SEM problem plastic repair, it’s supposed to be for some of the tougher to repair plastics. Watched a few videos on YouTube on it. One thing they mentioned is to make sure when you grind out the repair area you keep the speed low to avoid sealing up the pores in the plastic. That might have been my problem with the plastic weld. Anyhow I am going to try this out and see how it goes.
Thanks, Chuck
What do you have for material in the walls?
Chuck
I like using epoxy. You can use it and fiberglass mat or they make a netting material that looks like that screen for drywall. I have been using 3m rigid parts repair system lately, its a little slow but you can put some heat on it to speed it up. You can go to http://www.fibreglast.com and find their white pages and it will explain alot about repairs on fiberglass and composites and all that.
Chuck
The speed clears tend to be thinner, if your going to put a third coat on it I would wait until it stops stringing before you put that last coat on. Then give it a little more time than the tech sheet says before you bake it.
Chuck
Try using a pair of duckbill vicegrips. Works pretty good.
Chuck
I am not real familiar with the Martin senior line but from what I can tell they have a premium line and a low cost line. Whenever possible, and especially with high metallic colors spring for the good stuff. Cheap basecoat is known for being difficult when it comes to silvers and golds. When spraying metallic colors finish sand everything with at least 600 grit and put down a wet bed on your blend panels. Don’t take it all the way to the edge. Sherwin Williams s66 is a good product to use for your wet bed. I imagine Martin senior has one that is equivalent. Use your slow solvent in your base and let each coat flash completely before putting on the next one, once your sealer area is covered then start your blend. If you notice your blend is not blending out like it should you can mix your base half and half with your s66 (the same stuff you used for your wet bed) and this can make your blend a little easier. Most sherwin type solvent basecoats like a drop coat as soon as your last coat goes on. But to be sure get a copy of the tds and see what it says. Also try doing a sprayout card before you start to see how close your color is to start with. If its not decent take it back and have someone tint it. I am sure someone else will chime in with some tips but try this out and let us know how it goes.
Iwata makes a purple aircap for the lph 400. Spray at 8-10 lbs, 80 percent overlap, and about 4-5 inches from the panel. Sprays real slow, so unless absolutely necessary I just stay with the lvx aircap.What basecoat are you spraying? A lot of bases just don’t do real well metallic control. I spray Sikkens solvent and life is good with most colors, but as soon as I am forced to use DuPont chroma base and it’s silver or gold I am in for a workout.
Chuck
[quote=”Painterman1″ post=31781]I use a red mirka scuff pad on blend panels,primer and i have with solvent and water with no issues on metallic or soilds the only thing i use a gray scuff pad for is a raw bumper[/quote]
This is exactly what I use. We switched from 3m to mirka pads cause the 3 m pads would leave streaks in blend panels with silvers. I still keep 3 m red skuff pads for primer.Chuck