Charles Smith
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You can buy just the caps. I use the orange for 99 percent of what I do, but if one really fights me I will throw on the purple one. What size fluid tip do you use? I had to go to a 1.4 to spray most metallics. Something about the 1.3 didn’t like metallics. The biggest thing that helped me was to go 1 temp slower on your reducer on metallics and read up on the tds on what to do for drop coats.
I have really considered a sata or a tekna just because of the issues with metallics.Chuck
You could also look at the utech line of epoxy primers. I am not sure what they have avail to you in Canada though. I have liked everything I have used in their line, and it’s normally priced right.
Chuck
I wish we had something like that around here. Not crazy about the whole soda blasting thing. I have a spot that I have to fix on that 65 Ford cab I did that apparently didn’t get all the soda off it and had some adhesion issues. Hopefully it’s the only one that pops up. It was on the pinch weld at the bottom rear of the cab, not a real big deal but still enough to tick you off. We have a local sandblaster that works cheap. Does a great job at getting all the paint and rust off and then continues to warp the crap out of the rest of the panel. So needless to say anything else I need stripped will get good ol aircraft stripper until I can find someone who has a clue at media blasting. Looks like yours turned out great though.
Chuck
I like using 3m 05885 . It is a 2part epoxy used for rigid parts repair. Handles nice, finishes out real good and dries fairly quick. Drill the ends like you were talking about and v out the repair area a little more and clean it with acetone. Follow the sheet that comes with the repair kit and you should be good to go. Let us know how it works out for you.
Chuck
[quote=”ScottB” post=31260][quote=”gtome” post=31246] I do have the digital gauge and as you said, I had some battery trouble with it and it occasionally shows 4 psi on the stand. I just take that into account when I spray, but like you, I mostly go by sound.[/quote]
You should be using a gauge. On another site you stated you sprayed without one, and your best guess was it was 22PSI or so. The objective of this profession is to comprehend, improve and perfect product control. Hard to do that with inaccurate pressure monitoring.[/quote]Went to a training course in Atlanta for Sikkens and they did a demo on how air pressure alone can change a color, basically sprayed a fender with a silver let it flash taped off the top half and then sprayed it again, dropping the pressure about 7 or 8 lbs and you could tell a big difference. I use two booths a lot of times and each booth the air pressure can be 10 lbs different, so I make sure I pay attention to my pressure in each booth before I start to spray . Even then I wonder about color match issues with some of the more sensitive colors
We had the DuPont rep scan it for us yesterday and the DuPont only came up as one mix by the scanner and the sprayout was way off, he mixed us some up in standox and it probably could be blended but it looked to green to the panel. I don’t have any experience with standox as far as their color tools so I don’t know if the color could have been adjusted or not.
Chuck
I think your homemade booth turns out cleaner work than my purpose built booth! I would love to see better pics of your setup, I want to outfit my garage so I can get a few of my own done without having to borrow someone else’s booth.
Chuck
That looks like it worked good
I ended up taking some all thread rod and running it through the fenders with bolts and washers on the inside of the fenders and then bolted it to a stand, it allowed me to spin it around and get good coverage on all the edges. I hung the tank from a hook and that allowed me to paint the whole tank. Worked real good.
Chuck
[quote=”MetRamos” post=30442]Hello everyone, I was looking for some help and opinions on disposable cup systems, as I’m thinking about switching over from the pots and devilbiss bag liners and the mixing cups , I think it would save me time, although idk about the money, as all systems seem to be kinda pricey . I got a sample kit of the dekups to try out later this week , but I dislike that it doesn’t have the ratios on the cup opposed to the new Devilbiss Gunner cup or the Sata RPS. Which do you guys use and like. Another question I have is do you guys use them from sealer through clear or just base?
Thanks[/quote]
Do you have a scale to weigh out your paint/clear? That way you don’t have to worry about scales on the sides of the cups.Most of the time I have had issues with the blend with Sikkens abp is when I am rushing it and using fast reducers or cutting my flash times down. If it is still fighting you then it’s normally the wrong variant. With silvers and golds try to keep your spray out cards so you can see what your spray gun will produce. Also have a second set of eyes when using your pro cards , I have a hard time seeing what the side tone looks like and with so many variants in most of the silvers that you spoke of its real easy to pick the wrong one .
Chuck
Bondo, tell your son thank you for his service and for your family for supporting his decision.
Chuck
[quote=”gtome” post=30085]What is the aluminum foil for?[/quote]Its great for masking off ac lines and such instead of going crazy with paper and tape.
Do you you get many from the insurance auction? We normally have three or four going at any time. My boss tries to keep a few around for when things get slow. Just painted a 2010 Tacoma yesterday. The only thing that wasn’t repaired / painted was the tailgate.
Chuck
I will sometimes put a coat over my whole blended area to check my blend before clearing, it can really help in situations when you have jacked up lighting in a booth. And if you don’t have intercoat blender and you need to step a color down you can also use binder off the mixing bank. I take 1 part binder and 1 part slow reducer, mix that together and then mix it half and half with basecoat.
Chuck