Charles Smith
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[quote=”gtome” post=29925]I never have “too” much trouble. But then again, I do spray with a Sagola so…. :rock As long as I try to just sand the nib, its not too flat. Maybe one of those little 3m nib sanders would be worth while. Awfully pricey though.[/quote]Dont waste your time on one of those 3m nib sander, looks real cool in the video but waste of time we have one in our shop that does nothing but collect dust.
The lph400 has the three different air caps the silver (base coats/clears) the orange for most base coats (some people clear with this as well) and the purple cap which is used for the real tough metallic/pearl colors. The w400 comes in the lv2 which I understand is the older high pressure gun and the lv4 which is kinda like the rp guns. Iwata has a decent forum that you can go on that should clear up any issues you might have. http://www.asetusa.com
Chuck
A lot of times if you can show your boss how a different method, procedure or product will increase his bottom line or decrease his stress in life you can get a little more room to do things your way. With today’s economy and the pressures from the insurance companies most shops are finding it harder and harder to make money in this business. One of the most respected shops in my area has homemade paint booths, uses old bed sheets instead of plastic and buys their paint guns from some discount big box store. I was looking at AndyTs paint jobs in a parking lot with snow on the ground and it reminds me that someone has always got it harder than I got it. So I come here a few times a week and steal an idea from someone else that’s making it work for them. Just got to make it work for ya
Chuck
Have you looked into a 3m papr system? I picked up one on eBay last year for about 500.00. The filters are about 80.00. I like mine unless I am packing a lot of stuff in the booth, then I get a little nervous about the pack running into things. But other than that I like mine a lot.
Chuck
[quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=29553]HMMM I use 15 all the time on covers with little die back.(seems all ultra fast clears will die back some) Have you tried the ms 30 much better film build and better gloss retention.[/quote]I have used the ms42, liked that clear a lot, tried the ms 52 didn’t care for it, and the ms15. Is the ms30 anything like dc3000 clear? I tried some of that out and really liked it a lot. I keep hearing how matrix is pretty much a copy of ppg.
I have been with some of the bigger jobs, or jobs that they are not trying to get out the same day. We get alot of bumper jobs that we try to get out same day they come in.
I like the way the single stage on that rig laid down, is that Utech by chance? What gun/setup do you use for your single stage jobs?
Chuck
Well I tried the MS15 clear from Matrix today. Lets say the rest of the kit will be used to cut in jambs. It sprays great and dries fast but it is water thin and it dies back. I will probably stick with the Valspar clear for now. Its got enough build it can take a buff without you being scared to death that your gonna go through. My paint guy is supposed to get me in touch with a Valspar rep to see if I can change something to get away from the dieback. Most of the time it dont really matter cause we pretty much buff everything but it sucks on the rare occasion that I can get a no buffer and the clear has died back on it. I dont have the problem with the MS clear from them but with the panel temps getting so cold you have to let them sit in the booth forever before you can pull them out.
Chuck
We have that stuff everyday in our shop. Keeps everybody busy, and with more and more people deciding to keep the check and drive them I will take what I can get.
Chuck
Youtube has a ton of videos on this. Evercoats website has some of the better ones. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4CkhaV2V6k
Chuck
[quote=”5LEater” post=29160]I havent used a 2k etch primer in probably 5+ years, most of the old good ones arent compliant for use in canada anymore like the washprimer 1k CF(or was it 2k? Cant remeber). I remeber before compliance ppg had a really good 2k etch primer as well. Sikkens has recently discontinued or are in the process of discontinuing the aerosol 1kcf as well.. Now for the past 3 years have been using the Bonderite Auto-Prep wipes, which are supposidly better because its an actual conversion coating. Anyone else using the auto prep wipes or similar products?[/quote]
I still have been using the Sikkens 1kcf aerosol on bare metal areas before we put 2k on them. Havent heard anything about them discontinuing it down here.[quote=”bondomerchant” post=28529]ive found if i pull some of the stronger colors out an put em in a separate container i can add em back in an match the faded color i have some lil ez mix cups i put em in when mixing that look like Dixie cups i use hope this helps just try an stay in the formula an u should be fine :stoned[/quote]
Thanks for the tip on this, I left out a few of the stronger tints and marked them on the label how much I shorted them and did a spray out, had to add some of it back in. I did it a few grams at a time and it was real close on the face but the side tone was a little funky so I called my jobber and he gave me a few tips basically added 10 grams of q190 (sikkens abp) and that seemed to do the trick. I also took some clear base and cut my basecoat down a little on my blends just to make the blend invisible. Other than the difference that the new clear made to the panel it turned out great. I put way more work into it than the job was supposed to get but I was trying to learn something new on this job. I will try to get some pics of it in the morning. It has really made me realize that I need to go to school for this to get the basics down. But for everyone that offered advice thanks again.
Chuck
[quote=”ryan999″ post=28655]A couple things i have used with great success are the following.
If using foam tape I like the newer 3M blue and white. If I am painting a quarter I will put the adhesive side of the foam on the rear door. When I shut the door there will be some foam in the gap you have to push back to make it flush. Leave it sticking out some. Once the car is sealed use a spreader to push the foam back some so the base will cover your sealer. Works very well like this.
If using folded tape like the ez edger, once the jamb is taped put a piece of fine line 1/8 of an inch past where the tape edge is and leave some of the fine line on the outside of the panel so it can be peeled off after sealer. Now your base will cover the sealer and the line from the fine line will be easily covered.
With all that said if you are doing a car like some Mercedes out there where the jamb is very flat and there are no easy ares to tape, try and avoid sealer there and use the folded tape real close to the edge.[/quote]
I had never thought of using the foam tape on the back of the door instead of the jamb itself,I think that would work pretty good, that would keep me from having to buy so much transistion tape. I think I will try this out tomorrow and see how it works.
[quote=”Ben” post=28620]Sounds like a good plan.
If something is that old and junky, I usually don’t sweat it too much[/quote]
Its not that the boss or the customer will be that picky about this job, I think they just want it back on the road with some color on it. I am still learning at all of this, been back to painting about two years now and want to get my jobs to come out like alot of the work I see here. I dont get alot of opportunity to get any schooling in so its been a learn as you go thing for me since I picked a gun back up. I am glad that there is so much knowledge that is willing to be shared on this site.
Chuck
The lip from the paintline if I get one is easy enough to deal with, a little compound on a rag and its good to go, but the problem I run into is that the sealer always seems to get past where my base or my clear is going in the jambs. And not sealing is not really a option most of the time, I need all the insurance I can get with some of the stuff that gets sent to me.I think that the transition tape will work once I figure out exactly how to use it, I am still on my first roll of the stuff. I just got to get the stuff figured out so I can get the other guys in the paint shop on the same page.
Chuck