Charles Smith
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[quote=”Ben” post=28585]sell them on a complete 🙂
Is the base colour faded too then, not just the clear? Sounds like polishing the adjacent panels won’t help in this case…[/quote]
Yeah the base is faded, the thing actually polishes up decent. Didn’t really figure out what was going on until I compared the jambs to the exterior. This thing is a beater, no way will they kick the extra cash to paint it all over. I am going to try Bondos tip and try to get some spray out cards to see what happens.
[quote=”jimmo” post=28533]lol, we would just carry on and blend into it. If it were extremely severe then we’d try and upsell to paint over it but if nobody’s going to pay then I don’t see any choice……oh and I also curse bondo’s name as it rolls in.[/quote]
That’s what we end up doing as well, except cursing bondos name. Not much you can really do when the customer won’t pay a little extra to fix it. Oh the joys of collision work.
If your using pps cups you will more than likely save money due to the fact that you won’t have to use as much thinner to clean your gun back up. I still use the cup but we have a gun washer and a minimizer that recycles the dirty thinner. Also you might want to spring for a better base when spraying high metallics, metallic control is a little rough sometimes with the cheaper bases. If your tight on money you can sometimes cheat and use base coat from a previous job that is close in color then spray the correct color over it. But if you do this do a spray out card first to make sure that it’s not going to affect the color.
Chuck
I use the orange cap for almost all my colors, most of the time I use the purple cap is when I picked two fast of a reducer and need to even things out. If you find yourself fighting modeling try some slower reducer and letting your base flash completely between coats. The purple cap does a great job but it is real slow. Sprays completely different than any of the other caps. Once you get used to the iwata you could probably spray everything with one cap, but the others just make it easier.
Chuck
I use a lph 400 everyday at work everyday mainly with the orange cap. I have all three. I tried out the supernova but stayed with the lph cause it does everything I need it to. I use the w400lv4 for clear cause the lph is just painfully slow to me.
Chuck
We only do it if it has a moulding that covers the seam. We grind the bottom of the skin, paint the top, let it dry overnight then panel bond it the next day. We only weld the corners, grind the welds and put a little seam sealer over the weld and touch it up over the seam sealer. We normally do the roof skins the day they come in while the panel beaters are fixing the rest of the stuff. Basically got the vehicle out a day earlier so it didn’t have to be painted in two or sometimes three sessions. Much cleaner jobs as well, not forced to struggle with rigging up something to be able to reach everything on trucks and big suv’s. Easier to buff as well.
We had alot of hail as well over the summer, lots of work for months. When your replacing the roof skins do you paint yours on or off the vehicle. We started painting ours off the vehicle when ever possible. Paint them, panel bond them on the next day, put a couple of welds on the corners and its done, alot easier than standing on ladders benches and crap.
Chuck
When mine gets nasty I take some aircraft stripper and pour it into a mixing cup and tear the gun down and soak it in it for about 10 min or so and then rinse it off with hot water and then blow it dry. Then take a can of carb cleaner and spray and scrub the insides out then run some reducer through it. I wouldnt do this with a cheap gun though it might eat the seals out of it. But I do this with my Iwata at least once a week.
Chuck
Whatever paint system you end up using make sure you get a tds for it. Most of the time you can download it. Use the appropriate reducer for the conditions. Take some time and clean your gun, check your spray pattern on some masking paper and give each coat appropriate flash times. If you are going to use a drop coat make sure you read the tech sheet for recommendations , each company likes it done a little different. If you want the easiest spraying look at Sikkens or lesonal if you can find it in your area. I used to love DuPont until spraying Sikkens. JMO though.
Chuck
Do a search for some of Nexsons posts, he actually has some YouTube videos that he has done. Just dont play with the iso’s to much. Spend a few bucks on a respirator, some gloves and one of those disposable spray suits.
Chuck
If you lookon the side of the da you will see a small tube coming off it, you can take a small screwdriver and stick that in their and then turn the pad until it locks. Their is little grooves that it will lock into, then just spin the pad off. Great da by the way, will last forever if you keep a little oil in it, I have one that is well over 15 years old.
Chuck
The air pressure loss that happens with the dissident snake isn’t a real big deal unless you use a gun with a lot of air requirements. I think they only flow about 20 cfm, it’s been awhile since I have used one. But I have used them before in a pinch and they do work, I would just shoot a few test panels to see how it’s going to act for you. The biggest area that you might notice any issues is shooting your clear, you might get a bit more orange peel than what you would normally, so I would try a few test panels first so you can make some adjustments. What spray gun are you using along with what paint you are planning to use? I am sure that some of the others can chime in how they deal with moisture issues.
Chuck
I will use them from time to time when I dont have a conventional air dryer/filter system but I have found that they will kill any sort of airflow that you have and most guns will suffer from it. You can make it work but you can find much better solutions. If money is tight and you dont have the money for a refridgerated air dryer and set of filters look at some of the toilet paper filters from Motorguard. That and a well thought out plumbing system will work.
Chuck
With raw plastic you also want to make sure there is no mold release agent left on the bumper, once you have prepped the bumper per your paint manufacturers recommendation spray the bumper down with isopropyl alcohol/water mix and make sure that the bumper does not bead up. Also if you happen to come across one of the lovely reconditioned bumpers that have the funky thick primer on it make sure you sand all the orange peel out of the primer or else all of that orange peel will show in the finished product.
If you are the least bit concerned with any type of warranty follow the paint manufacturers recommendations, if you don’t your on your own. I have been paid on several redo’s with aftermarket primed bumpers due to the suppliers primer failing. Sucks to have a paint failure but we are at least getting paid to do it again.Chuck
I have the snap on that you are looking at. They do pretty decent but I have had to send mine in twice. If I had to do it again I would have bought the dynabrade. The snap on one only has a year warranty so if it starts making any noises get it sent in before it runs out.
Chuck