Charles Smith
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- June 8, 2012 at 6:10 am #37120
I figured out the issue, someone turned the valve to our airsupply that tied it into the community air for the shop. That air is not filtered very well and the compressor is decades old, works fine for DAs but not so much for painting. Fixed the issue by taking off the handle so board a@@ people wont turn the stupid thing. Now I got to change out the booth filters and get some new airhoses to make sure I get all of it out of the booths. Man I hate fisheyes, so much fun trying to figure out where they are coming from.
Thanks for the help
Chuck
June 4, 2012 at 5:54 am #37105Well the seam sealer turned out good enough to make the customer happy along with the rest of the job but it still didnt leave friday when scheduled. He didnt realize how bad his front bumper cover looked until it was butted up against the rest of the new paint. So I will get to do that monday. I ordered some of the fuzor to try out on the next one. (we have had nothing but hail jobs the last month or two) On another note does anyone else here paint the roof skins before putting new ones on? We have been doing that for about the past year or so and it makes life so much easier. Especially on Suburbans or Expeditions.
Chuck
June 4, 2012 at 5:16 am #37103I have seen this happen when using hi-build primer and hard lineing your masking area. Make sure you dont stop your primer in the same spot every time you end up with to much film build and it will actually create a high spot in your panel. Once you get done blocking out your primer take a clean towel and wipe your area to check and make sure that its flat. Alot of times you will feel stuff that way that you didnt with your bare hands.
Chuck
May 30, 2012 at 6:48 am #37064I pretty much use a da with interface pad to prep all my panels that dont need blocking,then I still cheat and use a skuff pad around the edges and close to bodylines. I dont block and wetsand unless its something that I am doing for myself. Its hard enough to make any decent money with the insurance companies cutting your time and the cost of materials going through the roof. I dont consider it a bit lazy, what I concentrate on are processes that I can use that produce predictable, repeatable results.
Chuck
May 30, 2012 at 6:32 am #37063I found a video on youtube on the fusor 122ez (Roof Ditch Self-Leveling Seam Sealer Application – 122EZ) looked like it worked pretty good. I might try that on the next one. (the Navigator that we did a few weeks ago) It seems like I have been getting at least one a week that is a pain in the a@@. I guess that is what happens when they really dont want their cars fixed.
Chuck
May 23, 2012 at 6:44 am #36987Another vote for the flexzilla, (if you can get it shipped to you) And although not absolutely necessary, the high flow couplers make things just that much nicer. I can tell a difference when using them and when not using them.
Chuck
May 23, 2012 at 6:36 am #36986I just used a gal of the new 4-1 Evercoat. They have two different versions of it a regular build and a high build. The high build can be used over bare metal without etch or epoxy. I havent used any of the G2 version but I hear that it works real well. Per Sikkens TDS sheets raw fiberglass should not be covered with 2k primer without some sort of barrier. They recommend polyprime. And it is recommended that it be cleaned with acetone not normal wax and grease remover. Just had a 78 ElCamino in the garage that the guy wanted in black epoxy and it still had the factory paint on it. Didnt want to put the money out to strip it and it wouldnt feather out so we put two coats of Evercoat 4-1 on it blocked it with a DA and 180 then put two coats of black epoxy on it. Turned out great. I dont think that I would paint over it without epoxy or 2k but some of the manufacturers recommend it.
Chuck
May 5, 2012 at 10:09 pm #36833I use a lph400 1.4 with all three tips for my base, occasionally I clear with it if it is small enough but for my clear it normally is my w400lv4, the lph400 is way to slow for me. The guy I work with does everything with his and wont change a thing. I have seen quite a few w400lv4’s on ebay for decent prices. But the older model Sata rp’s seem to be the weapon of choice for alot of the folks around here.
Chuck
May 5, 2012 at 10:03 pm #36832I went in and sprayed a roof skin today with it. It really seemed to handle nice, sprayed easy and had about factory peel to it. Kinda slow flash times even with fast activator took about 15 minutes between coats. I havent tried the Lesonal Glamor clear. I might try that on my truck when it comes time to paint it.I needed a good air dry clear that you dont have to leave the fans on forever once you walk out of the booth that buffs well, I am happy with the Valspar so far. I will try a few gallons this week and see what I come up with. The z9000 speed clear did really well, seemed pretty hard to run and it buffed nice the morning after. But I went back and buffed a hood that was painted a week before and it was hard as a rock, hardest thing that I have had to buff in quite awhile. I will see if I can get a few pics.
Chuck
May 1, 2012 at 7:05 am #36799When it comes to your compressor, go bigger than you think that you will need. The cheap so called 5 horse 60 gal ones that you see at the big box stores will work for a little while but they will run hot, make alot of noise and wont last very long. I did that very thing and it cost me a few redo’s before I figured out that I needed to research some more. A good compressor will cost you, but in the long run a good compressor could possibly outlast you. I would recommend at least a 2 stage 5 horse that runs at a low rpm. I looked for about 8 months before I bought my last compressor. I went with the biggest one that I could run without going to three phase wiring. Another thing to research is your air piping tp tools and sharp sprayguns both have some good links that will give you some ideas on what you need to have. And last but not least, stay away from those cheap air fittings. They will have you wondering why things are not working as they should.
Chuck
April 25, 2012 at 5:49 am #36740Look at some of Nexons videos on youtube, he turns out some really impressive work with a relitively lo-tech setup. He has some really good ideas for setting up temp paint booths, exhaust fan, air compressor etc for someone doing this as a hobby.
Chuck
April 25, 2012 at 5:40 am #36739Any time I have to question if a product is good or not, it goes in the trash. Its not worth it to risk paint failure and having to redo something. But you can usually look on the tech sheets and it will tell you the shelf life of any product. I would just get a quart of your favorite primer and use it instead.
Chuck
April 5, 2012 at 5:28 am #36630We use Lesonal Universal clear with the lesonal hardners and the Sikkens activators. Sprays nice and buffs real good for quite awhile. Buffed one today that I sprayed almost a month ago and still buffs real easy compared to other clears. Still need decent airflow or it can act a little funny. We used Pro Air for a long time does real well in booths with poor airflow but I hated buffing it. If you didnt buff it the next morning, your gonna take a bit to get it buffed, easy to spray without running and both clears are real durable. The pro air is alot faster out of the booth if you dont have a bake booth. Especially in the winter if you have a hard time keeping heat in the booth.
Chuck
April 3, 2012 at 5:03 am #36591How bout some pics/descriptions of the intake/exhaust setups. And what did you build the walls out of?
Thanks
ChuckMarch 28, 2012 at 6:52 am #36517I have been dealing with this same issue, especially silvers, I seem to get little clumps, you can get it flat but you will still see it under the clear, most of the time you will never see it outside but it still sucks not knowing where it comes from. I am thinking that it might be from just stirring my sealer instead of throwing it on the shaker like my paint. For whites when I get that irritating black speck in an area that will really be noticed I will dust a little base on top of it and then put some more clear on it to give me something to buff. This can bite you in the rear if your base eats into your clear. I have tried pulling trash out with tape before but it seems like it makes more of a mess than what it fixes. I do keep a pair of tweezers handy, I sharpen up the tip so its not so large and sometimes that works for me, as long as I havent had to much coffee that day.
Chuck
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