Charles Smith
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Another thing to remember is to allow plenty of flash time for the solvents to get out. Sometimes I will add a cap of clear hardner to my base, seems to help things stay put. Keepin the trash out of white is the biggest problem for me, nothin sucks worse than that speck of black in the center of a tri stage panel, also read the tds for the material that you are spraying. See if it is any different application from what you are used to spraying. Lets see some pics when you are done.
Chuck
I have the 3m papr as well, works pretty good but the filters are pricy, but the nice thing about it you can use it anywhere, you dont have to rely on a compressor to supply your air.
Chuck
If the floor is pushed up you could probably take a block of wood and a BFH and get most of it out. If it works then check and make sure your undercoating is still intact underneath, if not get a can and recoat.
Chuck
I have brought up tracking material prices on jobs but thats as far as it has gone. I just try to control the things that are in my grasp right now. I am pretty much able to order materials (except paint) from whoever I want to, and I just want to make sure that the dollar is going as far as it can. We get alot of suppliers that get in with these great deals and promises of discounts and all that, then when they get comfortable you see the prices start going up again.
I love the Sikkens line of products, but it sure does send you into sticker shock every time you get your material bill. I would like to look into the Lesonal line once this contract is up. I have sprayed a few jobs with it and it handles about as well as Sikkens does. Not quite as good but better than most that I have used.Chuck
I was more interested in what some of their sandpaper, mud things like that. I have gotten some killer deals on mixing cups, red skuff pads and things like that but I am hesitant to order any mud, glaze or clear till I can find out more about it. Our material bill goes up every year and the insurance companies wont kick out any more money to cover it unless all the shops they deal with do the same.
Chuck
My recomendation is to build a few for yourself, find something that looks like a real light hit and something thats cheap to fix. Do a quick search on aftermarket/replacement parts and see what they are running. Sometimes those light hits have headlights that cost between $500.00- $1000.00 to replace also look at airbags etc. What dont seem like expensive stuff can sometimes kill any chance of making a buck. Then go online and see what folks are paying for cars in the same range.
Once you find one get you a box or a file of some sort and some way of logging your time. Track every expense to build it and keep track of your time and once your done figure out if you made enough or not. My son is in the process of building a 2002 Maxima, real light hit in the front didnt kick the air bags or nothing, but what really sucks about the whole thing is those headlights that run $500.00 each. That could make or break you if you are not prepared for it.
Coparts and IAAI are both good sites to go through. But I would look into all the legalities to put these cars back on the road. In Ohio (where I live ) all salvage vehicles have to be inspected and you have to provide reciepts for all the parts you replaced etc. I have heard horror stories from guys stating they had parts siezed from them when they couldnt provide reciepts. I work in Ky where the laws their are entirely different. So look into the laws where you live before you buy something.
I would also not buy anything without going out to look at it in person. It never looks to bad in the pictures on the internet but you also have to realize that it totaled out for some reason. If you can find auctions that deal in rental cars those can be good ones to get into. Alot of times they have clean title cars that they remove from service that will have real light damage. Alot easier to sell a car with a clean title compared to a rebuilt title.Chuck
Need more info about your air system, is this a one time deal or is this something that is going to be used quite a bit more?
If you are using Sikkens paints you might also try the pro air clears as well, these clears do very well in cross flow booths and dont run very easily, I can also vouch for the Universal clear that Jayson mentioned earlier, I went from Pro Air to Universal and love the Universal. I was struggling with some runs with the Universal but with a little help figured it out. Some of the things that helped me were to ensure that my clear was hand slick before putting on my second coat, increased my air pressure by about 5 lbs and put my first coat on med wet instead of full wet. I shoot in an old cross flow with no make up unit, so when it cooled down had to learn how to paint again. Another thing that helped out was to get one of those laser thermometer to check what the panel temp was before I started to clear. I had the room at about 70 degrees but alot of times the panel temp was alot cooler than that. Another thing, with the cheaper clears like the Finish 1 and Wanda they both tend to run fairly easy. You dont have to hammer them on to get them to lay down nice, the thing that I have found that works for me is to put the first coat on real light and not worry so much about getting it to glass up and then concentrate on making it look right on the second coat.
Chuck
Any particular brand? I gotta get a new pair this week, with the recent snow we have had I have found my feet to be wet and cold more than I like.
[quote=”ding” post=24668]if your getting 6 months out of your footwear you are doing really good.[/quote]
I think that you might be right, I think that I might expect a little to much from my boots.
Heat it with a propane torch setup and hit it with a wire brush, dont heat it so much that you cause any more damage or warp anything but that should make fairly quick work of it. Also make sure you dont have anything that will catch fire right behind that panel and keep a fire extinguisher handy, I would keep a small air blower on hand to blow out any small issues that you might have.
Chuck
I have switched from 3m to Mirka c20. I like it alot, its supposed to be followed up with their f05 polish but I am not real impressed with it.I still like the 3m stuff for the #2 and #3 step.
Chuck
The shop that I work at uses Sikkens and we quit using the colorbuild for most of our work, we had them drop off Utec 2k works pretty decent as long as its not abused. We still use the colorbuild for spot jobs when you dont have alot of area to work with just cause you can get the color real close on it.
Chuck
[quote=”lild” post=23645]I never had a problem with this color. But to add to the whole 2 coat & 3ct thing, I have done the ford e9 in the 2ct & I can get by, but if do the 3ct it does have more depth. Now ppg does offer the e9 & pel in 2ct formulas in the dbc but not 301n, how ever in enviro e9 or pel is only a 2ct & not offered in 3ct. I just did a caravam last week. New hood butt matched to the factory. Ender. Perfect. Which is nice cause u don’t have to do a mid coat. I was told also that the cheater formulas were for doing spot jobs. But, that’s what I was told.[/quote]
So I take it that you are using mainly PPG? I am spraying mainly Sikkens solvent and then sometimes throwing in Debeer when I cant get a color to line up right. Still kinda learning what colors line up well and which ones dont.
Yeah the wife would probably go for it as long as it gets me home earlier!