Julian
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Hello from Dover Kent.
Also as this product goes on in one hit you need a fair amount of room to blend, putting a coat on drying it putting another coat on drying it like many basecoats are applied is easier to keep small, Dupont coatings need more room.
Hi I use the spies hecker hitec (basically cromax pro) over here in the uk, they put it in our shop beginning of last year, it came with no colour chips only the spectro camera, the reps didnt know all about it as it only be in the country weeks before they installed it.
I found out many things but one main thing is paramount is that the spectro is calibrated and colour checked exatly at the same place,temperature and humidity the same, so for example dont calibrated it 8 degrees in the prep shop and check your colour in 20 degree spray booth I found this to produce much better results. I alway sprayout my colours and clear and dry to a point before making an informed decision.
Do you use blender on your blends? this is very important that the dry overspray from your blend is absorbed by the blender as these DPC products need a wet film to arrange the metalic particles.
Another thing I also do is never swamp it to much base (I know its hard as some silver dont cover in the 1 1/2 coat yeah right!) and give the base a couple of minutes to settle before putting the booth on flash-off. Clearcoat as usual with 1 coat of clear at the end of the blended panel and bobs your uncle youve a spot on job.Just clearcoat as normal one or two coats whatever the product indicates, if you dont want and lines around your decals you will have to coat it dry it out 1000 dry da flat and re clearcoat it, the temptation is to ‘swamp it’ to get rid of the edges of you decals causing your runs.
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I have my guns sat onto what I would call rods that are fixed on top of our paint bench,they go inside the air inlet on the gun, nice neat and simple.
Another thing if the aluminium has sat around bare for a while and handled alot I would chuck it in with another job and bake it before Id clean and paint it.
If it was me I would use proper etch as I call it (not 1k stuff that comes in aerosol) then wet on wet and base and clear, simples.
We do alot of audis (aluminium panels) and they recommend the spies 4075 which is proper etch and on new panels and repairs and for any warrenty corrosion work we have to use the epoxy primer which can be used as an etch sanding and non snding surfacer just takes ages before you can do anything with it sand or recoat it. Ive always maintaned that etch should never be painted straight over with waterbase.Do you bake or infra red these parts your painting, alot of paints need high initial heat to start of the curing process. if your panels are air dried and temp drop belows 20c then your paint may never cure properly hence your issue with your polishing, paint should be cured and cool before being buffed. Solid black base/clear jobs at our work are baked at 80 degrees c for 45 minutes then if nessasary nibbed next day, if i try and nib and polish same day your id have a job getting it perfect. Just an example but obviously differs because of what paint/oven i use and what you use, but same point of it being fully dry to be able to finish it with no issues.
I didnt mean it to come across that they are rubbish,they are a neat bit of kit for a smart repair or custom jobs so it horses for courses.just at my work the smallest smart repairs or locals we do I can do and prefer to do with a full size gun our spies hecker hitec can be applied better nicer and colour match better with a larger setup.
Youve hit the nail on the head,I would say without looking at the jobs that it’s that your basecoat hasn’t gone on flat enough to grainy or textured creating your sucked into the base look. putting to much basecoat on and not sufficiently drying base can cause this.anything under your clear example etch wet on wet basecoats need to be dry flat and stable before clear or your finish will be compromised.you can buff the clear and it will look great but it sink again.
good question, ask the etimators they know best. lol. seriously it all depends on size of panels? horizontal or vertical?and the type of clear?clearcoats can vary on application could be 1 coat, grip and rip 1.5 coats or 2 full coats.
We use Spies hecker spectroflex as a surfacer or sanding primer they consists of 6 already coloured primers which can be mixed on the scales to produce a multitude of colours. Some manufactuers primers can be tinted with a very small percentage of direct gloss to give it a bit of colour but add too much can affect the adhesion and corrosion properties of the primers.
Looked at our minijet today at work its two sided fan control, I thought i got that idea from somewhere. I dont like minijets (sounds like you dont either) thats why its sat on the shelf collecting dust.
Like a lot of ‘special’ paint finishes, its not long before the paint companies bring out a straight forward 2 stage finish to replicate the original. I guess depends on what tinters you have on the scheme nothing spies has is fine enough.
