Jack Marshall
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Never measured the noise coming from ours but it is quite noisy to be honest. We can just about have a conversation over it. Is it a new fan your using? As ours was really loud until we changed the bearings a couple of years ago. Get some pictures uploaded of your booth we would all like to see it!
That is a smart home made booth. I wish ours looked like that!
We air dry all our jobs in the warmer months and in the winter we have central heating which keeps the booth warm enough all night to cure jobs. I can paint 2 or 3 jobs a day if I’m on a roll leaving one in the booth over night to cure and a couple in the workshop with the masking pulled off.
I don’t use infra red lamps much apart from drying filler and spot primer but they do work well but expensive if you buy a set up rather than making your own.
We use Glasurit HS for direct gloss and usually use Lechler Macrofan 2000 HS clear coat. MS would work better in our set up but I actually prefer working with HS.
My jobs are usually pretty clean. Sometimes I don’t polish them at all, sometimes just a handful of nibs and sometimes I give them a general polish all over. That’s usually when the workshop and booth is ready for a clean out.
I always wash cars before doing paintwork which I find helps a lot with avoiding dirt in paint. I use a washable spray suit which I wash often and always give a good shake before doing a job. I use an old tack rag on my airline and gun before starting as well.
I have no idea about that to be honest mate. I would imagine you need more pull from your exhaust than from your inlet otherwise you’ll get positive pressure which will force paint fumes out your booth into the workshop. I am only guessing though. We don’t have that problem because we don’t have a fan pulling air in we just have filters and rely on the exhaust fan to pull air through.
We just buy those 2×2 filter squares as they are cheap enough when bought in bulk from Dalby. We made the booth doors to fit 4 of these in and built an exhaust box with the fan in that also has 4 filters.
Are you doing this full time or just trying it part time to see how it goes?
Our home made booth is exactly how you describe yours will be.
We have 4 2×2 inlet filters and 4 2×2 exhaust filters.
We only have a fan on the exhaust and not the inlet.
It works fine I only struggle when doing full repaints as the overspray builds up but if I change the exhaust filters before doing a full repaint it is manageable.
Both our inlet and exhaust are at floor level although I would prefer the inlet to be higher.
Best of luck starting your own shop.
If it’s a genuine cooper they are fetching quite abit now. I did a full resto on a mk2 cooper s downton tuned shell 18 months ago. The labour and paint was 5k but the car is rebuilt now and probably worth 20-25k to the right man.
I didn’t need to cut the trumpets on my first mini as the rubber doughnuts had totally collapsed! So it was already pretty low and very bumpy.
It’s a customer job this one.
I did a fully de seamed mini with moulded and smoothed wheel arches. It got mistaken for a mini minus all the time as that was the look I wanted. I also put a tilt and slide sunroof out of a Citroen saxo in it as well as a metro 1275 motor.
Then I had a late cooper sport 1275 in British racing green with a white roof and full length webasto sunroof and leather interior.
They are great little cars. Do you have one Carl?
Yep that would be me haha. Not been on there for years. I had a few minis between the age of 15-19. Now I’m the ripe old age of 26 it seems a distant memory.
Plastics painted today. These bumpers and skirts were wrecked and needed replacing to be honest but parts are not so easy to get here.
It’s Ford Race Red which is quite an orange shade of red I guess.
I actually did it in Glasurit 68 line single stage for several reasons but it came out good anyway.
LHi Carl. I have found the same sometimes to be honest. What I found is that the more cots of base you lay down the more texture you will get in the clear basically.
The best way around this I have found is to get coverage in as few coats as possible using either a ground coat or tinted primer. Or sometimes if you do need a lot of base to get coverage let it dry and nib it all off ( I use p1000 dry) then just put on 1 coat and then your effect coat to finish off before clear coating.
Another thing I’ve found that helps is to get your base on nice and smooth so there is no grainy feeling to it then give it a real good tack ragging over before clear to remove any stray or stood up flakes.
I also work in a make shift booth and you are right the flat panels do get more dirt in them. If I am really clean my jobs come out clean though.
It’s catch 22 because they do come out flatter when painted horizontal but come out cleaner hung or stood up.
We don’t currently state a warrenty on work although I feel we probably should. I would put it on a sign that is clearly visible to customers.
We usually honour any work within a reasonable time frame. Perhaps 12 months is a fair amount of time for both the customer and the business.
I would only warrenty peeling or dulling paint. I wouldn’t warrenty something because it has been stone chipped to death.
Rust is a different ball game. If you tell the customer it won’t come back then you have to stand by that but if you clearly state that it will return at some point then we won’t warranty it even a week later.
That is good advise. Masking tape, guide coat and pencil lines can be a great help especially on difficult body lines and contours.
Once you have the repair in primer and blocked out I spray some wax and grease remover / panel wipe over the area and look down the panel to check for straightness. If your not happy with it, rework it otherwise it will show once painted.
I followed a guide and made one a couple months ago. I didn’t use the solux bulb just a normal light corrective bulb which are really cheap and it works very well. Maybe not as good as the correct bulb but I couldn’t get one locally at the time. It cost me about £30 to do and took about an hour so can’t complain. It does the job.
I think there was a topic about this somewhere but it turned out you had to sand it very finely all over and leave it at that to achieve the nib free Matt finish.
That is cool and nice work too!
What products are on there? The clear looks very nice.
I’ve seen products that claim they can do this but I would not feel comfortable doing it.
For the time it takes to buzz a new panel over and scotchbrite around the edges it’s not worth the risk in my opinion.
