Jack Marshall
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I turn the fan, fluid and air to fully open then turn the fluid in until you feel it start to move the trigger forward then back it off so it is fully open.
If you are using less than fully open on your fluid to get the finish you want, you need a smaller fluid tip really.
It may be because you are using a fast mix and it is not flowing out before flashing/tacking off.
Is your base smooth before you clear it? I find if my base isn’t smooth enough the clear goes on with more texture than the areas without base on.
I generally use a medium activator/hardener and reducer/thinner on my jobs. I will use fast now and then if the temperature is cool or just doing 1/2 panels.
Im sure you will get it dialled, theres always something when you change product. Keep us up to date on how the new clear performs though.
The pro clear does come with a t2 as standard which is good cap. More suited to ms and thinner hs clears and glosses.
If the valspar clear is quite thick this is probably why you are getting more texture than you would like.
If you find you can’t get the finish smooth as you would like I would recommend trying the t110 cap (although I think I paid around £80 for mine from spraygunsdirect)
I have sprayed ultra high solid clears with mine which were like syrup and still got a good oem finish.
How close do you spray? I spray around 4 inches but move quite quickly.
Hope this helps. Let us know how the new clear holds up. Who supplies it to you?
I use t1 for solvent base I wouldn’t imagine it would do very well with a hs clear at all.
I’ve not used that clear although I keep looking at valspar/octoral clears. I’ve heard and seen the hb body clear fail.
I run 1.8 bar with lechler hs clear. Everything wide open with the pressure adjusted at the wall regulator but checked with a gun guage. I also spray close and fast.
I don’t know how your boss can get a good finish using 1.1 bar! That is low.
I’d be interested to hear how the new clear goes. The test for me is how it looks a few months later.
If you want a real flat finish the t110 on a gti pro will lay it like glass which is what I use. It will also recreate oem peel with the right mix
I guess 22 is a little low for some people. I try to run a lower pressure for coverage and less paint wastage. You could probably run it around 25-26 and not use a noticeable amount more. I’m not sure what that would be in bar. Probably around 1.7-1.8.
I also use one for clear with a t110 cap and use 26-27 psi which I guess could be low for some people too.
I think the most important thing is to run a gun guage and set the pressure at the wall with all your gun settings wide open. This is how I get the optimum performance, finish and material use out of my guns.
Not posted anything here for a while but I use these guns everyday.
For solvent base coat (I use debeer) I run the t1 cap, with all the gun controls fully open including the air inlet on the bottom. I run a gun gauge but set the pressure at the wall. I run around 22psi (for coverage and less material wastage) but will bump it up a touch for blends and such.
When covering I probably run the gun 4-5 inches away. When blending probably around 6 inches. This is approximate.
Bare in mind all paint systems are different and you will need to fine tune to suit yourself and the product.
I don’t think you can go wrong with these guns. They are versatile with all the different set up options. Well priced as well especially since they pro lite was released.
Hope that helps.
I have used 2k on engine blocks quite abit and it does hold up pretty well. Eventually it seemed to flake around the spark plug area of the head. It has always been 1 coat of etch primer and a single stage gloss never used base clear on one.
Jobs a good’un.
I think I did one this colour a little while ago and had no problems using debeer solvent base. It was 3 stage though I think.
I bought a sri pro around 6 months ago. First mini gun never had use for one before.
I don’t use it that often but it’s great for those small blow ins.
Mine is the 1.0mm it sprays base clear and single stage great the one thing I have found (and its pretty obvious) if your using hs clears or single stage I have to thin them a little more than I should. I’m sure with a 1.2 I wouldn’t need too.
It is a good gun though, definitely worth spending the extra coin for one.
I couldn’t say what they have spent on panels an other parts but that added to what were charging is probably near the value of the car. It is a nice little car and a rarity I’m told being the colour it is with matching interior etc.
Andy, I painted the wings at the same time as I couldn’t risk them not matching. I did the bumpers and other parts seperate though and they’re a perfect match.
The clear had died back abit which was disappointing although expected with all that base. I did think of putting 3 coats on but didn’t want to risk anything. It’s polished up nicely after a nib with 2000 and a buff.
I might put some finished pictures up once its complete.
If I had a tenner (15 bucks) everytime I heard the rollerskate joke while I’ve been working on this I’d be a rich man!!
Bumpers and last parts.
Everybody does it differently but here’s how I do it.
Remove bumper from vehicle.
Strip off all parts.
Wash bumper with detergent and pressure washer.
Do any manipulation or plastic welding.
Sand repair area with 180. (Always best to leave as much original paint on as possible, filler bonds better with this than plastic)
Apply filler where needed.
Sand filler (80grit is ok for the actual filler, try not to rip up the plastic though) follow with 120 then 180 over repair area.
Red scotchbrite repair area and a few inches all around.
3 costs of medium wet primer with appropriate flash off.
Once dry, sand primer with 320, followed by 600.
1000 grit and grey scotchbrite any blend areas.
Base and clear as normal.Used to use the old school type but now I use these;
http://www.chicopee-europe.com/by-name/automotive/itack
From my supplier. They arnt too expensive, last ages and I cut them in half because they’re big.
Don’t leave any lint or sticky behind like the old ones.
Gun gauge fitted.
4 bar at the wall regular = 2 bar at the gun with air and gauge fully open.
Not sure why it said anonymous when I posted the question.
4psi through 3m of airline, that is surprising.
I’m using around 15-20m of airline so I can get right around a car in the booth.
I set the regulator at 2bar but the gun feels totally strangled for air.
I will get another gun gauge (used to run one) and set the regulator accordingly.
