Jack Marshall
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Its just clear base coat, just ask your supplier for it.
I use debeer solvent and this is what I use for wetbed;
http://www.de-beer.com/TDS/DBL-BB500BA.php?lang=en
Thinned/reduced 2:1 sprayed over any blend areas.
Jimmos videos show this technique very clearly.
Your blends are best done whilst the wet bed is still wet then work your way back to get coverage but it does still work when its dry Ive found.
Wet bed / orientation coat. Its all the same as far as Im aware. Recently started using it and wish Id found it a long time ago.
Plastic primed the new bumper, sealed the new hood/bonnet and bumper in light grey, put a wet bed on the wings/fenders then based and cleared. Coverage was very quick over the light grey.
[IMG]http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q705/jackmarshall1/IMG_0367_zps757fc228.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q705/jackmarshall1/IMG_0368_zps30382851.jpg[/IMG]
In the words of Jimmo ‘not too shabby’
This place really is awesome for good advice. Thanks again guys.
We’ve told them to take them elsewhere or they’re ‘preffered’ repairer.
Usually they cannot be bothered with the hassle and give you most of the hours you want.
Thanks for the help guys.
I will seal the new parts light grey before baseing to help keep the coverage consistent.
Thanks for the info.
I have sprayed it once before but only a small blend between 2 doors. It covered ok for the type of colour.
I just wondered if there would be a colour difference between the bumper and fenders if I left the bumper black.
I think I will do as you suggested and seal the new parts and just blend the fenders as normal.
Factory bumpers never match anyway I guess!
Interesting about the teknas having a larger pattern. I wonder if the tekna aircaps fit gti pros?
I spray quite close too so maybe wouldnt make much difference to me.
Nice work, you should be chuffed with that!
Thanks for that.
I dont mind buying it to try it, as you say its cheap. I just dont know if it could have an effect over time, customer complaining and re-work.
Cant see it affecting primers too much but its topcoat curing overnight I need to speed up really as its still quite soft the next morning.
I like the soft spray pattern too although I wish it were taller like an Iwata.
The T2 or any other Gti Pro aircap is no bigger either.
Apart from that they’re great.
I paid around £80 for my T110 cap from spraygunsdirect.com, they are local to me so I go to their shop when I want something. Very knowledgable and helpful folks (especially Chris)
I would say swap your fluid tips around, 1.2 for base is okay on smaller jobs but 1.3 for a high solid clear would be better than a 1.2 in my experience.
Try not to mix products either, I know we all do it but UPOL products are reasonably cheap so just use the right hardeners. A good quality thinner is also a good idea. Try to match your hardener and thinner speeds too.
From your pictures I would guess you need to move in a little closer, be braver and let it go on wetter. You will probably get runs if your new to it but you will learn how it flows and how far you can push your luck.
Id also warm the area but either direct the heater away or turn it off whilst painting, they do kick up alot of dust.
I run my guns with the fluid and fan wide open, around 28-30psi for clear.
If you cannot salvage the job you could always wet sand it with 800 and grey scotchbrite and re- clear coat it, this should get you a nice flat finish as it would be a flow coat.
I use it for HS and UHS clears, which I believe it was mainly developed for.
I think its very good, better than the T2 for HS and UHS clears. I still use the T2 for Glasurit single stage though.
What are you thinking of using it for?
Hey ho mate these things happen. I suppose you cant really expect to just ‘get it’ using a product the first time.
On another note, Ive started using the wetbed (still on solvent) and it makes life so much easier so it cant hurt to try.
Ive recently bought one, I like it but I like all the Devilbiss guns.
One thing though, I dont think it is the same build quality as the full sized guns but still pretty good.
Is anybody cleaning or valeting cars nearby? Ive seen this problem pass outdoors from building to building so if anybody is using any silicone based products nearby it could that that.
Another cause could be something diesel being run in the shop?