Jack Marshall
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I have been having the same issue especially with silvers. Now that Im using the wetbed/orientation coat before base coating the issue has now dissapeared. And no need to over reduce the base or add colourless to it.
Good point by Rikka, lighter coats over the graphics is a good idea. I have seen some graphic bubble up after a while as well I dont know if it was because of the graphic itself or the clear application being wrong.
The way Ive done them without issue is to base, clear, wet sand 800, graphics, then clear again. If you want ‘no edges’ you will have to wet sand 800 again and clear again.
I wouldnt wet sand clear with 1500 if you are going to reclear again. I once did it that way and the clear did not lay out nice over the 1500. I would stick with 800 wet for reclearing.
Hope this helps, other more experienced people will be along shortly with their suggestions.
I have never had to reclear headlights to be honest.
I sand all the old coating off first with 600, then 800, 1000 and finally 1500 before polishing back to a shine using your buffer and compound like farecla or 3m.
I do all the sanding with a palm DA, probably only takes 10 minutes per headlight tops.
Ive had them done like this on my own car for the past year and they havnt lost their shine or anything yet and if they do I will probably just break out the DA and buffer again. At least they wont stone chip like clear might?
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Job done.
I will put up pictures of our booth when we get it tidied up and painted!
It is basically a spraying room rather than a booth as such.
We have inlet filters at either end and an exhaust chest in the centre of the booth which doesnt work the best but its limited with the building we have.
Heat is ducted in from a propane heater which keeps it warm enough in mild and warm weather but we really struggle to paint in the winter months. Overnight air drying with HS products can be a pain too.
Rikka, sounds like your boss takes quite a cut! But as long as your happy with your cut at the end of it thats all that matters.
Hourly rate over there sounds high too. We manage £32 per hour from insurance companies. We get £25 per hour for fabrication and welding work but we get less than that on ordinary private work as its done to a price and it always takes longer than expected.
I have seen it done by having the glass lightly sandblasted to etch the surface then primed and painted like normal.
I guess you want to leave the glass in the van so I dont see why scuffing the glass well with say 180 on the DA wouldnt work?
Why not get a piece of glass to try it out on?
That way you could see how durable it is against the weather or a high pressure power washer.
Heres to the guys painting in home made booths and air drying! :cheers :cheers
I take nibs down with 1500 wet on a block then buzz over with 2000 if needed.
For polishing I use 3m fast cut and 3m finesse it with the appropriate polishing foams.
Your work must be super glossy if you 3000 your paint!
Does your boss take a percentage or just a set amount per job?
Hey Rikka. Thankyou for the kind words.
Theyre are a few nibs in the bonnet and top of the back wings but nothing down the sides. We usually get some in the horizontal panels unless we have a real big clean out of the workshop. I think we would probably get hardly any with more regular maintanance and a purpose built booth.
I work for my father so I can do pretty much as I please at work in my spare time but theres not been much side work for a while to be honest.
Hi John, thanks.
Clear is Lechler Macrofan 2000 HS with medium hardener/activator and a medium thinner/reducer.
Mix is 2:1 + 5-20%. About 10% thinner/reducer in this job.
We pay around £80 for 4 litres of clear and 2 litres of hardener/activator so not bad price either.
I used to use Lechler Megalack UHS clear which was about the same price but was harder to spray, needed more thinner/reducer and started having problems with solvent pop even in our low temp home made booth.
I can really hose the Macrofan on when needed and it wont pop. Also air dries overnight well unlike some HS clears.
Haha nice work man.
Yeah Ive been using the DeBeer for a number of years and cannot fault it. Very versatile I find.
The Lechler is available to me but I have never sprayed it myself only ever sanded and found it slightly harder to sand too. Think its more expensive too.
Yeah Ive been using the DeBeer for a number of years and cannot fault it. Very versatile I find.
A job well done!
Nice to see you still doing some indoor bodywork Andy. I sort of like these kind of jobs too as it brings life back into something old but well loved.
I like the sealer and single stage tint. I do something similar only with basecoat on rough bumper covers or along door bottoms/ around wheel arches that are having cheap tidy ups, it works well.
Im sure the owner will be over the moon with that, nicely done.
How would you compare the Lechler TI to DeBeer?