Jack Marshall

Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 102 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • December 6, 2012 at 11:34 pm #39712

    I use DeBeer basecoats, which I think are very good, both solvent and water.

    I have used DeBeer clear in the past, I didnt get on with it that well but I have seen others who do.

    Not used Standox much at all but I know a few who use the VOC compliant clear and love it and from what I have seen it flows very well and lays like glass.

    Ive never used Valspar but told its a Lechler spin off and Lechler is my choice of clear I find it very good to work with.

    December 5, 2012 at 11:01 pm #39691

    Is adhesion promoter okay for use as orientation coat?

    Just thinking it could kill 2 birds with one stone…

    December 4, 2012 at 11:21 am #39651

    Nice work as always Rikka. Painted a fair few frames myself not the easiest thing to do.

    December 4, 2012 at 11:17 am #39650

    Hey Rikka.

    I need glasses too. But I have to be honest I hate wearing them as I find they just get in the way or I knock them off or they fall off. So I wear contact lenses. The only problem with contact lenses is if you dont wear a full face mask then the blow back of paint can sometimes stick to them and irritate them. Im soon going to change to a full face mask as Im sure it will be better for my health also.

    It isnt good of your boss not to maintain the booth and equipment he has but dont be too envious. I work in a make shift booth, with no bake facility and it really does make it hard work at times.

    Why doesn’t he maintain his equipment anyway? A clean, well lit booth will produce better paint results, less re-works and increase his margins surely?

    December 1, 2012 at 12:07 am #39518

    Egg-celent work.

    Couldn’t resist.

    December 1, 2012 at 12:06 am #39517

    Sweet ill have to give that a try!

    November 30, 2012 at 10:03 pm #39498

    Thanks for the suggestion, sounds like a good method. Is the over reduced clear not still tacky while your tack clothing between coats of base?

    I think I will try the clear base as orientation as I can tip it out the gun and shouldnt affect the colour base if theres a little left behind.

    November 29, 2012 at 10:29 pm #39467

    Hey guys, thanks for the input.

    Its not an issue Ive had, it was just something I wondered about as I am going to start and use the wet bed method for my blends on silvers and such.

    I hadnt thought about the base not being protected from UV or moisture, good point.

    Its not likely something I will have a problem with, just a thought if it did happen would it buff invisibly.

    Usually Id rather clear the entire panel but you know how it is sometime, not just with insurance companies either. Price is everything to some customers, quality is an after thought.

    November 29, 2012 at 1:30 am #39447

    Sorry, my question was not clear. What I mean is will clear basecoat (used as orientation coat) buff back invisibly if I accidently blow it over my clearcoat blend area? Hope that makes more sence!

    November 27, 2012 at 11:25 pm #39428

    Hey Rikka, nice work.

    What process are you using to paint new panels. I notice you have a new door hanging in the e-coat, then the next picture its painted. Are you painting them wet on wet primer, base then clear?

    November 27, 2012 at 11:27 am #39425

    Great advice guys. I usually do back mask around the edge then paper up to them. My trouble comes with modern cars as the flanges on wings/ fenders are rolled right round alot of the time. I have also used the duck tape method which works well although is expensive compared to masking tape.

    November 27, 2012 at 12:17 am #39416

    Here Here!

    Not been here long but it is such a wealth of knowledge and experience, lets keep it positive!

    November 24, 2012 at 12:20 am #39381

    I use Spraygunsdirect as I live half an hour away so usually go to their store if I need something.

    The prices may seem low if you are looking at the prices without VAT added to them, currently 20% in the UK.

    As for the Iwata I cant comment as Ive never used one.

    November 1, 2012 at 11:52 pm #38846

    I would give it a buzz over with 320 on the outside and the large areas of the bumper, then a red scotchbrite on the back of the bonnet and edges/corners of the bumper.

    Prime it, let it sit overnight if your not baking.

    Sand them to either 800 wet or 600 dry, quick rub with a grey pad again and your good to go.

    October 30, 2012 at 1:14 am #38833

    Yes you would probably get away with it, but.. LA7W reflex silver is a weak covering colour in my experience, I think it has alot of clear tinters in it.

    Therefore you would really be applying to much base for coverage. Which could lead to sinkage/dieback of your clear amongst other things.

    I would either seal it as suggested above, light grey or white or 2k prime it light grey or white first.

Viewing 15 posts - 76 through 90 (of 102 total)