Jack Marshall
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Hey Andy, thanks for your input. Your knowledge of colours is always impressive.
I think you are right, I should have gone with a true black primer or undercoat. Also, I dont think I applied the tinted clear wet enough as the second time I painted it, all I did was apply more of this over the repair and blend area and once outside in the light of day, I would say it was 90% match, which the customer was happy with and I could live with. I think next time I will be able to get it closer still.
Once again, thanks everybody for your input and ideas, that is what makes this site what it is.
Also, no colour varients in the debeer scheme. Being a small shop we buy our colours pre mixed so we don’t tint much and rarely need too.
Hey guys thanks for your input. Surprised to hear you have fiestas! Paint line is debeer, colours are always very good. I did a test spray and it was close but a little light as it was over white. I thought by matching the factory undercoat it would certainly be very close and blendable. Repair area was rear quarter panel and rear door, blending into un damaged front door. Blend is unnoticeable but repair area is a touch dark. Blend was staggered with final coat of mid coat across the whole front door. This hasn’t affected the front door to fender match. I guess my undercoat was too dark even though it was very close to factory. Less ground coat would have meant repair still visible as mid coat added no coverage.
I find it strange how they’re telling us to glue and rivet these structural panels on to decrease welds.. yet still have to weld the joint up the roof pillars anyway?! What was wrong with a spot weld in the first place?!
Thats a pretty crude way of repairing a structural area to be honest.
You should be able to get the ares welded properly and coated in underseal for a good price, if you cant quite afford to have them repainted to match the rest of the truck.
Were still using first generation rp’s and nr2000’s at work.
They dont do it for me but the old man loves them and wont change until rebuild kits are no longer available!
If they are the soft type rubbers that lift away from the body slightly, I use a filler/bondo spreader to lift the rubber away and protect surrounding paintwork and use a red/grey scotchbrite to take it off.
Try a small area first though as sometimes the scotchbrite is too aggressive and tears the rubber up.
Hello again.
Well I seem to have cured the problem for now.
I tried the easiest things first which were emptying the water traps, which were pretty dry anyway.
And also I started applying more of a medium wet first coat followed by a medium/full wet coat with shorter flash time and it worked a treat.
Thanks for all the suggestions, I would have tried them all if this had not worked.
I wouldnt like to say it cant be a bad batch of activator but I have sprayed around 12-16 litres of this clear, with 3 or 4 batches of activator all with the same result.
Water in the airline could be a possibility as the compressor being used is old and tired and does pump out water but there are 2 traps emptied regularly. I also spray Glasurit gloss with their fast activator and fast reducer with no problems. I dont think the hoses are helping as they are also old and worn.
I wouldnt have thought water would show until it is put in very cold or hot conditions causing the water to freeze or boil and creating micro blisters?
I dont really want to add an accelerator as I am already using fast activators and reducers.
Ill try a medium reducer and see if it changes anything. And empty water traps and try a new air hose.
Thanks guys.
Firstly, thankyou for all the suggestions and help it is appreciated.
I think I will try a medium or slow thinner/reducer because that is the easiest variable for me to change.
Too slow clear in an air dry environment would also make sence as I can leave the first coat 15-20 minutes and it will still be pretty wet.
The clearcoat hardener/activator comes with the clear as a kit so it is made to be used with it, it does have air drying times @ 20 degrees celcius on the data sheet too.
It happens from the day I open it but thinking about it, it does seem to get a little worse as it nears the end of the tin, maybe 3-4 weeks later.
I try to mix it up regular as it seems to settle towards the bottom, I assume this is just a characteristic of HS or UHS in this case.
My supplier sells alot of it, so I dont think it is sat on the shelf too long either.
I shall try a medium or slow reducer and report back.
Thanks guys.
Or maybe my skill level at the time did not work well with such gun?
The gti pro is well known for being user friendly especially for inexperienced painters.
Hi.
This is my first post here so please excuse any ignorance.
I am 22 and I would say I am also of similar experience as the guys you are employing. I have been painting full time around 4 years now.
I was taught with a SATA and I never felt in control putting the paint on, it just seemed to run.
In the end I bought a different gun, a Devilbiss Gti Pro and since then I dont remember the last time I got a run or sag.
I also found using a slightly better clear (Lechler) than previous the result was alot better.
So maybe your guys are not experience enough to be top coating or clear coating with a SATA?