Jan Slater
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Hi! I trained up on this in 2009 and used it at 2 different shops and I can honestly say it was a great system. The lacquers(clears) are really nice too and it polishes really flat if required. It also can reproduce that factory finish slight peel look while keeping a nice shine. The reps also advised me to use Iwata supernovas for application and I found these guns to work exceptionally well while keeping material usage to a minimum.
Hi. Some great answers on here and from what I can see it is a case of contouring/mapping depending on which side of the atlantic you live on. On this forum I see a lot of different terminology regarding paint faults and painting in general so I will try and use USA/UK words!!
This has happened because the original finish/surface youve started with and repaired has started to soften because the solvents/thinners/reducers from the primer youve applied and following/subsequent coats of paint have started to attack/search out the layers of paint that you have sanded back/ feathered out that were on the hood/bonnet originally. This could have been avoided using and applying a sealer/barcoat- this type of paint would have sealed the original finish in.Obviously to remedy/fix this perhaps you should have bare-metalled before primering but due to costs and time constraints this isnt always viable/possible.
If you have shot/applied enough clearcoat/lacquer a hack/quick fix is to colorsand/wet flat with a block the marks out and then polish/mop /buff it to a show/flat finish.
One thing I will say is dont beat yourself up regarding the actual finish of the paint as on your pictures it is just clearly a gun finish or raw paint finish and this is why they invented polishing mops/buffers! 😛
Youve done a great job just getting any sort of finish at this early stage of your painting career.
Keep the pics coming as I teach paint Refinishing and I use these probs as examples to my students!!
lol at the last post :p
clear coat all day. – clear over basecoat black – winner winner chicken dinner.
Good luck!
Hi. Without question if you are painting a show car I would without doubt paint it in basecoat followed by clearcoat. Painting a straight black direct gloss has many pitfalls when it comes environmental effects, inclusion during application and UV protection(may fade as sunlight will damage it). Polishing a straight colour black is also awful and can lead to over polishing, swirling and spider webbing and then over correction.
Painting in clear over base in my experience is always a much better finished job. this is because during application any faults in the colour can be easily rectified and any faults or inclusions in the following laquer are usually invisible on a black job and can easily be levelled during the polishing/buffing stages. Laquer polishes better than direct gloss as solid colours – especioally black- easily go milky looking.
Good luck.Hi 14cfm motor 150 litre reciever tank compressor will run a normal HVLP gun but undoubtably on bigger Jobs you will need to let it keep building pressure up to keep a constant pressure at the tip.
I find 18cfm+200 litre tank is usually the best way to go. A larger compressor than this will also run an airfed. Dont forget regulators and traps!!
Jan.:welc Hi,
Edge to edge is how we refer to this situation in the UK.
I would only do this once you have discussed with the customer the pros and cons of this sort of repair.
Pro- quicker smaller repair and cost less. Con may not be 100% match to adjacent panel.
Personally I find its just quicker and easier to blend rather than waste time and paint by tinting.Jan.