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Currently I buy my solvent paint pre mixed but I want to use onyx water and by my tinters and mix my own colour from the codes
Hi jimmo basically I’m new to this paint mixing stuff I’ve only ever sprayed solvent that just needed thinners added so I’ve no idea as to what I’m supposed to do or need for onyx
Hey sorry what I meant to try and say is that at the moment my procedure is
1, remove damage or corrosion which normally means I’m left with a patch of bare ally
2, etch primer on said area
3, wet on wet primer
4,base
5,clear
My query is I’d like to use one product for steps 1+2 rather then having to prime twice, mainly because it’s a wheel and sometimes the area can be no bigger then a inch or twoThanks for all you advice it’s really appreciated, Is there a product that’s wet on wet primer with corrosion attributes like an etch but also some build that doesn’t require sanding, the small areas on an alloy that I go back to bare metal do they still require an etch prior to primer? Imt just thinking that because on most of the alloys I paint there’s some small corrosion areas anyway if I was to just primer under my paint instead of an etch how ling will corrosion take to come through and if by then other areas of the wheel will probably be corroded by then, hope this makes sense
Thanks, and thats a single rfu product you buy?
Hi could I just ask what is a foundation coat?
Is that with a direct gloss black as a base?
And paint will adhere ok to 1200/1500 or is that just for clear? And is that a good enough key for say primer to stick, not that I’d deliberately sand to 1500.anywhere that would be primed but as you know wheels it can sometimes difficult to keep the primer area local
You say GreY scotch is fine , what would you say is ideal grit for adhesion but also as not to leave visible scratch marks under clear, I find the gti reasonably good size for base coat but was thinking of the sata 4400 for my clear as that’s when I seem to find the larger gun with multiple spoked wheels a problem, oh and is there a primer which I can use wet on wet which has reasonable build and a direct to metal like an etch rather than having to use two primers every time
I use gti pro, 1.2 but large fan am thinking of trying sata 4400 mini, for exactly that reason, when you prep wheels I find I’m taking ages scotch padding the wheel in and out the small gaps etc, how much do I need to key the old clear for example is it just a light scuff quickly over or do I need to make sure every part is keyed to a certain degree?
Hi thanks for replying, I’m using a wet on wet primer at the moment from max Meyer but I’m having trouble laying it smooth it’s landing very textured not dry but like very very orange peel if that makes sense,I tried more fluid but then it runs
Is there a major difference between dry times from fast to slow in solvent base coat?
Hi mate what roughly is the difference in time drying solvent paint between using a slow reducer to a fast one? I’m using ir lamps