Jim Clark
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I have no disrespect for collision painters, I am one.
I don’t do show car work, I don’t sand my customers cars with 400,
it’s unnecessary for sure for collision repair.
Most cars I do don’t get buffed much, I do a lot of bumpers and seldom
do any buffing on them for sure. That’s not the point.
All the cars I’ve seen at the National Street Rod meet here in my home town
have been cut and buffed. I have never seen one that wasn’t so far.
Most started with coarse grits.
I have tried the 400 and can see the difference for a really straight paint job.
I tried it on my own car to see. It does make a difference.
You can sand with 400 after only 4 coats of clear and still have enough mills.
Don’t knock it till you tried it.BTW: No such word as irregardless (LOL)
[quote=”Ben” post=27056]If I had to polish all my jobs, let alone sand any thing I painted with 400, I would be fired.[/quote]
Exactly,
you’re doing collision repair, not “show car”, Big Difference.
But for someone to say sanding clear with 800 grit is a no no,
that’s just plain wrong.[quote=”Ben” post=27062]
I wish I didn’t go to school, or do an apprenticeship, I could have learned all the “right” ways on the internet and be the next Chip Foose. Now where is my Pro Form clear coat and lacquer putty, I have another show car to start…better stock up on the 400 grit now.[/quote]Wow, all that knowledge and never heard of sanding clear with 400.
you really need to get out more.
Go to the car shows and start asking about sanding the clear
to some of the really nice show car owners like I have.
Sure a lot being sanded with 400 or even 320 first.
And you’ve never heard of it or think it’s wrong???
wow! where have you been?
Perfect example of someone that”knows it all”
Can’t learn anything new, that’s for sure.Yeah, you’re right.
Those guys don’t know what they’re doing,
That guy at SPI who wrote “the perfect paint job”
surely doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
All those cars that won paint awards
were just lucky.
My 35 yrs experience could never offer anything here
so I won’t try.You guys have been stuck in “collision repair” paint jobs to long,
High End custom shops generally start with 400 grit to sand their clear,
you won’t get rid of urethane wave completely useing something
above 600 grit. Try it once and you’ll see the difference.
I know I didn’t believe it either at first, but it does make a difference.http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfect%20paint.htm
You can get excellent results if you paint early, when the sun is
just starting to come up, no wind and the dew keeps the dirt away.Solid colors are not a problem, metallics can be.
I agree with the above, you just need to polish it more thuroughly after buffing.
Some wax after buffing to make it look better but that’s just a
band-aid approach to make up for not finishing the polishing properly.What kind of putty and primer?
Sounds like the putty is absorbing solvents.
Use only putties that need a hardener and
use only primers that use an activator (hardener).
Otherwise you’ll have shrinkage issues, not swelling.
Hard to say without knowing your products.It may not be, but it sure works good for me.
Endust is NOT a cleaner and is NOT a polish.
It is made for only one thing, dusting.
And as the directions say, it leaves NO residues.
Don’t confuse it with Pledge, totally different product
for a different purpose. Dusting only.It works much better than a tack rag.
I don’t do anything between coats of spraying.
Between coats of sanding I always wash with Dawn.Laugh if you want to but I don’t use tack rags anymore.
And hardly ever use wax and grease remover.
Before I start, and when I’m done with my final sanding, I wash everything
with Dawn dish soap, never had fisheyes after doing that.
Once dry, I never blow it off with air, that just causes static,
which will make dirt stick to it.
I tack off with Endust useing clean dedicated shop rags that I wash and
keep just for that. Laugh if you want but it works better for me
and the Endust removes the static which keeps it cleaner.
Been doing it that way for over 10 yrs now, never a problem.
You all can keep those nasty sticky tack rags.kirker urethane
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html
I’ve used it on my boat and car, it’s held up great.
about $80.00 a gal with activator.
Spray it lightly, it runs like water.