Jim Clark
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You spray different colors in the same session?
Doesn’t the overspray of one color get on the other?90% of my buffing is with 4″ dia. pads on a std buffer.
Autogeek.com sells 4″ Lake Country pads and backing plates.
I like the “Spot Buff” pads the best.http://www.autogeek.net/4inch-spot-buffs.html
I love my Iwata for clear but won’t use it for base.
Too easy to stripe and mottle with metallics.
Oh sure I can make it work, spray careful and up the pressure,
but why fight it, my other guns do base so much easier and better.
I just use the Iwata for clear.
I once read that LVLP guns aren’t as good for base as HVLP’s
and HVLP’s aren’t as good at clear as LVLP’s.
I don’t know if that’s really true but it has worked out that way for me.
My old el-heapo Astro does base way better than my LPH400.I always keep my filler as thin as possible, but I’ve seen really old
panels with filler over 1″ thick and not cracked or shrunk.
Makes me wonder.:unsure:Definetly use your thing on them (LOL)
I got lots of different silver base coats leftovers in 1/2 pints if you want one, it’s FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(He’s a local boy)
[quote=”A2brb” post=17505]Jim, you do good work old man! :cheers[/quote]
Thanks whippersnapper.
That sure is a pretty red fender on your car:lol:
I recently fixed my 98 Civic’s qtr panel.
Mine is a coupe, there are patch panels available for the sedan
even found on Ebay, pretty reasonable, but not the coupe.
So I cut the meatal out of my quarters and part of the wheel tub and
glued new metal back in. (inside and outside)http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt350/JIMCLARKPAINT/CIVIC-RUST/
A new qtr panel would have been better but I didn’t want to spend the $700 it cost.
I think this will last a long time.
The key is getting it sealed, they tend to leak at the seam of the qtr panel
to whhel tub. The factory has a gasket there.
(I used agood seam sealer over epoxy, then epoxy and paint, then undercoating back side)
Once they start leaking, water and dirt gets in and hence the rust.If you painted it with a small compressor that ran most of the
time then I know what your problem is-moisture.
If the compressor got hot and the air isn’t cooled down
before reaching the gun then you put a lot of moisture into your clear.
No trap can remove it if the air isn’t cooled down first.
No matter what clear or gun you use.[b]Powermyster wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hi guys,I stripped the charger back to metal several months ago and epoxy primed before doing my filler work.
I noticed when doing a little filler work up around the c-post/roof that there seemed to be very light very small 1mm pockets of corrosion. ..
Darren[/quote]Did you use paint stripper?
Sounds like what can happen if it’s not cleaned completely off before painting.Also, as far as epoxy goes, some strictly say not to use over etch.
Good job :pcorn:
I got some red fenders that match that VW :rofl
I used a Astro gun for about 10 yrs and sprayed everything through
that one gun,it was all I had, I never had a problem.
If you clean your gun properly, you won’t either.
I still use that gun for my base.I love my Iwata for clear, but don’t care abut it for base.
My cheaper Astro does base a lot better and easier,
especially silvers.
I’ve read on other forums a lot of people feeling the same way.
It’s just not known for being good at base.
Bondoking cramks his up to about 25 psi to get base right with it.I can’t believe it’s done!!!!!
Congrats son. 😛I use a Astro plastic cup with my LPH400 and it
works fine.