Jim Clark
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These are great
http://www.timeshavertools.com/features.html#preppinwedge
They may not be as long as some like, but with coarse paper it will
straighten with the best of them.[b]phillphill wrote:[/b]
[quote] can you clear over single stage? if so what clear do you or would you use? dont wanna snub anybody so HELLO to any and every body!!! :silly:[/quote]If it’s acrylic enamel, stay with clear enamel.
Enamels stay soft, almost forever.
If it’s urethane, then any urethane clear coat works great.Big difference between enamel and urethane, both are single stage paints
but both are very different.
I cleared my daily driver that I used urethane on, that was 3 yrs ago and it
has been much more durable than anything I have ever used.
Not a single chip on the sides yet.
I waited overnight to clear it, no scuffing needed.Stay away from enamels-they’re junk compared to urethanes.
Nice to see some paint on it , finally,
I was hoping to see it done before I died!!!! :lol1I find the less air I move, the cleaner it stays.
So I paint with a bit of a cloud.nice job, that’s way out of my league.
I’ll just stick to the bumpers and dents (LOL)[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Well technically Endust is a Mixture of odorless mineral spirits and Trichloroethane (Chlorothene).Only thing that would worry me about using it is the Butane propellant might leave a dry powdery residue.
.[/quote]The Endust is only misted on a clean towel, it doesn’t even feel damp, trust me. there’s no transfer of anything-
except dust clinging to the rag. It really knocks the static off, especially on plastic parts.
Everyone I know that has tried it liked it.
Like I said, I’ve been useing only Endust for all my tacking for over 10 yrs now.That’s my final answer. (and I’m sticking to it) :exci
OK, here’s my secret, laugh if you want, but it works.
I use Endust with clean shop rags for all my tacking.
It removes static, and removes dust better than a tack rag.
It leaves no residue and never interferes with painting.
Seriously,
I have been useing Endust for over 10 years now and will
never go back to tack rags again.If you have an etch you need to see a doctor and quit scratching it.
Bondoking told me he’s back on this project but hasn’t had much time to devote to it.
I’m sure we’ll be getting an update shortly.
Maybe I’ll pay a visit this weekend and try to light a fire under his but 😛Glad to see ya here!
[b]A2brb wrote:[/b]
[quote]Good idea on taping the Jams…So on the Doors… you cut the paper to the shape of the doors or did you just fold the paper back and then tape?
Looks like I need to take more time taping.[/quote]
One thing that works good for door openings.
They sell plastic with tape already on it, I get it about 24-30 inches wide,
tape the peimeter and then just bunch the plastic up in the middle with a rubber band.
that also allows re-entry. Makes it easier to tape to. 😉[b]BondoKing wrote:[/b]
[quote]Its time to finish this bad boy up.. Pulling it back in the garage tonight so it can dry out and get ready for the tons of blocking that is needed :P[/quote]It’s about damn time!!!!! Kid! :lol1
There are cars out there with the cheapest clear on them that have held up
better than some cars with the most expensive clear.
Is it the clear? probably not, prep and application play a bigger role.
I have seen failures in the best of products, and some remarkable durability
in the cheapest ones. I guess we never know for sure how to pick.
Even when we find one we like, chances are it won’t stay the same.
Most every mfg will lessen the quality over time and then come out
with a new and improved one. It’s the games they play.
It’s a sure bet that any given clear is sold under multiple names, and prices.I like the ones that need no filler, just paint 😉
I don’t believe there’s any work going on in there, it’s to clean!!!!!
I can’t keep my little 2 car garage that clean.
That’s nice, to nice 😉