Jim Clark

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  • June 4, 2009 at 8:45 pm #14627

    I like the SPI epoxy, especially since it comes in white, gray and black.
    I buy the white and black and mix to get the shade I want depending
    on what color I’m covering with.
    It’s also a “flexible” epoxy so I like it for plastic parts and bumpers.

    I also like Kirker epoxy, it’s cheaper and only comes in black and gray,
    but it’s a real easy to use epoxy, not as flexible though.
    But I have been able to pile it on more without any issues,
    the SPI is sensitive if you go more than a couple of coats,
    I get pin holes if I rush it, never have with the Kirker.
    they both are easy to sand after a day or two.

    May 22, 2009 at 3:50 pm #14411

    Nice stipe eagle eye!!! 👿

    May 19, 2009 at 6:46 pm #14374

    Wow, sounds like it is the paint.
    I hope it’s not on the shelves currently for sale

    May 18, 2009 at 11:05 pm #14369

    Getting fish eyes is not a clear problem,
    it’s a contamination problem from somewhere else, usually silicones.
    If you add silicones to clear, it eliminates fish eyes, not causes them.
    that’s what fish eye eliminator is, a little silicone added to your paint
    to make it compatible.
    If it’s in your paint it helps, if it’s on your surface-you’re screwed!

    Transtar is a quality product that’s been around for years that’s being used
    by a lot of places. It’s not the paint.

    May 8, 2009 at 5:34 pm #14259

    Sometimes a real slow reducer helps,…. to keep it wetter.

    May 5, 2009 at 9:07 pm #14216

    that’s incredible, thanks for the tip. 😉

    April 30, 2009 at 6:22 pm #14169

    Yes, it’s a common problem. especially on qtrs that’s been repaired or replaced.
    It’s critical to get the seam of the outside qtr and the inner splash guard sealed
    weather tight. The factory uses a gasket, but most people just tack weld them together.
    This one wasn’t even close.
    I’m suprised it wasn’t worse sooner.
    I’m not happy fixing it in such a sloppy way, but it’s basically a freebe on a car that’s
    17 yrs old and on its last leg anyway. (A 1992 Prelude)
    The owner wants to get rid of it soon.
    I’ll just glue some metal in it and fill in the opening on the back side and it’ll
    probably last another 2 to 3 yrs.
    I doubt the car will be around that long.:lol1

    April 30, 2009 at 2:48 pm #14163

    I haven’t done any of this in 20 yrs, but this one’s for a kid w/ no money
    that I’m trying to help out.
    No wonder it was rusting, check out the gap on the backside where water and dirt
    right off the tire would go.
    This is what happens when a quarter panel isn’t installed right and closed up.
    I never guarantee these type of repairs, it’s a temp fix that’ll last a few years.

    [IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/jcquack/BODY%20AND%20PAINT/92PRELUDE2/RUST1.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/jcquack/BODY%20AND%20PAINT/92PRELUDE2/RUST4.jpg[/IMG]

    April 29, 2009 at 5:11 pm #14133

    I believe my jobs come out pretty clean considering I don’t have a booth.
    Most dirt seems to come after spraying clear, but I was wondering.
    I always see a few little circles when sanding the clear before buffing, just a few,
    that are very light and sand out easily.
    I’ve always wondered what causes them, I’ve always seen a few, even with
    different products, a new compressor, different guns, etc.
    I’ve noticed it on previous repairs by others too.
    They’re not really fish eyes, they’re always just in the very top coat and very slight.
    You can’t see them unless you’re sanding the clear.
    Have any of you noticed this?

    April 27, 2009 at 11:51 pm #14115

    He paints in the dark!

    April 22, 2009 at 3:23 am #14037

    :woohoo:

    April 9, 2009 at 2:54 pm #13907

    [b]natypes wrote:[/b]
    [quote]While I partly agree with you Mr. Clark, it can make the adjacent panels that weren’t painted look better and look more like the panels you painted.[/quote]

    You don’t need wax to do that.
    I buff out adjacent panels all the time to help them match the new,
    I never ever use wax. No reason to.

    April 8, 2009 at 8:36 pm #13894

    If wax makes it look “better” then you haven’t buffed it properly.

    There’s absolutely no reason for wax in a paint shop.
    It has no benefit and can only cause problems.
    When someone needs to finish by waxing they’re just putting a band-aid fix
    on improperly buffed paint.
    They need to learn how to “completely” buff it out. B)

    April 8, 2009 at 8:31 pm #13893

    Bondoqueen IS a young whippersnapper. Don’t listen to him 😛

    April 8, 2009 at 4:14 pm #13885

    [b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
    [quote]It’s a good idea. Two full coats of clear can make the panel you painted darker. Here’s the best analogy for this situation. If you have ever flown in a plane and looked out the window while flying over land and looked at a swimming pool. The deep end is darker than the shallow. The pool isn’t painted darker on one end nor is the water a different color in parts of a pool. What your seeing is how long it takes the sunlight to reflect the color on the bottom of the pool back at you. With more clear it takes longer for the light to reflect therefore giving a darkening effect.[/quote]

    That’s the best explanation I ever heard, great job!!!!
    I will be useing that as an example myself now. thanks. :cheer:

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 97 total)