Jim Clark

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 97 total)
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  • April 8, 2009 at 3:55 pm #13884

    The car I’m working on right now is so dirty and grubby on the inside, there’s no way
    I would detail it before giving it back.
    I’m not worried at the filler dust getting inside, if I just blow the inside out with a
    air hose it’ll be cleaner than when I got it.
    This is pretty typical of cars I work on.
    I don’t understand how people can drive such a dirty grungy car.
    And it’s a 06 model.
    I usually wash them when I’m done, but that’s just to make sure I get all the compound off.
    Detail it? you gotta be kidding. :rofl

    April 8, 2009 at 3:49 pm #13883

    [b]natypes wrote:[/b]
    [quote]
    His reasoning, the extra clear can make colors look different. If you put 2 coats of clear over 2 coats of OEM clear that will be 4 coats in some spots and that amount of clear can potentially adjust the color slightly.

    What do you guys think?[/quote]

    that’s exactly how I do it, and for that very same reason. 😉

    April 7, 2009 at 11:13 pm #13863

    [b]BondoKing wrote:[/b]
    [quote]… CRAP… I GOTTA QUIT HANGIN OUT WITH OLD CHEAP GUYS :wak[/quote]

    I’ve been telling you that for years.
    Don’t hang out with old people……………..I don’t.

    April 7, 2009 at 9:00 pm #13857

    A gallon of that yellow paint cost as much as red…ouch! :ohmy:

    April 7, 2009 at 6:38 pm #13854

    I only do small collision repair, I don’t do all-overs (except for myself)
    I adopted Bondoking as my #2 son only because I wanted grandchildren and
    he has cute kids. (not real sure if he’s the father though)
    But most of all, I like seeing his frustration with the jobs I wouldn’t take on,
    makes me feel not as bad when mine have problems.
    That’s why I treat him so bad, he’s like a son to me 😛

    April 7, 2009 at 3:23 pm #13849

    I’d up it $5 to $4005, that would be just about right.
    That way you can still be making less than minimum wage. 😛

    April 3, 2009 at 11:45 pm #13809

    Looks great to me 😉

    April 3, 2009 at 9:05 pm #13807

    [b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
    [quote]Hey someone agrees for a change on this one ;)[/quote]

    I disagree with that :lol1

    April 3, 2009 at 2:48 pm #13795

    [b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
    [quote]On some colors BASF will have a ground coat or tell you to use tinted primer to get better coverage.. For example I just finished a transparent red pearl that had I not used the ground coat would of taken 6-8 coats to cover, where as with the ground coat it only took 3.. I could prove that on a spray out card to, and in the end the color will match. Ultimately with enough coats yes you will get coverage and color match. But I am all for saving money and time and a good ground coat or tinted primer will do both..[/quote]

    You’re absolutely right, I agree with that. 🙂

    April 2, 2009 at 8:53 pm #13759

    Anytime you do a repair where you blend, you stop the ground coat short
    of the paint area. You can’t spray primer right to the same edge as where the color stops,
    you have to spray past that to gradually blend the color.
    That’s more color over existing color.
    If an additional color coat changes the color because the existing paint has the
    color affected by what’s underneath, it’s impossible to get a true match with new paint
    because the blend area will have more color coats.
    Aside from Dupont, most paint companies make their paint to match what is
    actually on the car with only their base,and if you don’t get enough coats it won’t match.
    Why else would they suggest spray out cards? they want you to achieve total hiding
    to get a true match.

    April 2, 2009 at 3:19 pm #13749

    There’s a reason to use “spray-out cards”…..to get total hiding.
    That’s the right way to do it, not relying on the undercoat for the final color.
    That’s why mfg’s recommend them.
    It usually only takes another coat or two.
    If you don’t do it that way, then future repairs will never match because anywhere
    you add a coat over the existing paint, it will be different.
    I don’t do overalls so it’s not an issue for me to save a little paint,
    I always have paint left over on my collision repairs.
    I had one car overall (15 yrs ago)that I didn’t get enough paint on, couldn’t
    see it untill it was out in the sun, never again will I risk that. B)

    April 1, 2009 at 11:50 pm #13734

    You’re not an ameture anymore :silly:

    April 1, 2009 at 9:25 pm #13728

    Well, like I’ve said 1000 times,
    Put enough paint on it and the groundcoat won’t matter.
    And it’ll be easier to match in the future too.
    Don’t skimp on paint, that’s why there are flash cards,
    to make sure you’re getting “total hiding”
    that’s what you want.
    If the groundcoat is making a difference, there’s not enough paint on it.:P

    March 31, 2009 at 8:45 pm #13702

    I do it both ways, lately with the coarser grits like 600, dry seems easier.
    I wear a glove on my left hand and wipe as I go.
    It really cuts fast and you can see what you’ve missed a little better
    than useing water.
    But for the finer grits, 1000 and above, water works better.
    The fine grits clog to easy without water.

    BondoQueen:
    Who you calling old, you whippersnapper.
    (Keep on and I’ll put some oil in your paint hoses):evil:

    March 31, 2009 at 3:06 pm #13695

    You can always sand it with 1000 (coarser is better-600) and clear it.

    Think about it, that’s what we do on collision repairs all the time,
    cars that are several years old, I scuff the adjoining panel and clear it after
    partial color blend. That’s clearing over a old clear.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 97 total)