jeremy bishop
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Thanks guys.
Jay, it is ok. Now that it is getting cold I notice it splintering some like the yellow did but not as bad. I don’t think anyone makes a tape worth a damn these days. The gold paper isn’t 3m but a knock off. Can’t remember off hand but at least half the price of the 3m. Think it is made by hi-tek or xtreme or something like that. There isn’t a label on the box :huh:
A lot of coats and letting it dry good between. I like to let set 30 min to an hour between coats for the first few. Then come in the next day and finish it.
Thanks Ryan.
Never really thought about using it on the rotisseries but yea always use it in engine bays for the harnesses and whatnot. Certainly be using it come paint time. :teach
One of the largest shops here (3 shops across 2 counties) went through the same last year with BASF. Of course, like you, they were told they are the only ones having issues. They tried both 90 and onyx line, complete systems. They are using envirobase now.
No expense spared but you are spraying basecoat right over poly primer. Think about that for a minute…… :stoned
A rep doesn’t always have the right answers either, a phone call to the lab is always good to double check and verify. It may not necessarily incorrect to do it, but that doesn’t mean it is the best thing to do on a $100k show car. Being a trailer queen, doesn’t mean you get to cut corners because it may not see the elements of nature that a regular job may……but that’s just the way I look at it. These guys are paying a lot of money so why shouldn’t it be done to out live a regular job if you [i]were[/i] to expose it to the elements.
I know the reason they want to use slicksand, it is cheaper product. If you actually weighed the 2 and figure in your time you would see the difference.
Have you seen any of these cars after 3+ years of them being done like that?
Jay is right though, almost makes no sense to use it on the 2nd round. If there are any bad spots that still need some work after my first round of poly, I will usually just spot those areas with more poly and block those areas out. Finish the poly out with 180 real good and move on to urethane primer. If you HAVE to do it a 2nd time overall because there are a lot of re worked areas, it shouldn’t have been poly primed int he first place. Not saying that is the case here…but I see that a lot. Just because it is restoration does not mean that you do not have to be efficient with your time.
Also would not necessarily follow the sheet on slick sand about topcoats, at that point you need to be referring to the tech sheet of whatever topcoat/basecoat you are using.
[quote=”gtome” post=33336]We base right on the Slick Sand. No troubles so far.[/quote]
Uhh..what base system are you using that recommends going over a polyester substrate?
Does hok base still reduce 2:1 ?
I think 12 quarts of sprayable color between white and red may be a little too much there.
Pretty easy with the GEO bedliner gun that SPI offers. It is pretty thick and doesn’t work well with a regular 3m shutz gun.
Thanks. The underside is SPI Bedliner. Good stuff.
[quote=”ryan999″ post=32641][quote=”jeremyb” post=32636]I’ve been trying their solvent system for a little while now. Just here and there to see what it is about..mainly on lexus colors. It seems like a good line. They have a color system, variants, camera, etc…
The color variant system is much like BASF’s. I haven’t run into a problem where the color wasn’t blendable. Covers well and sprays nice. Their 8500 clear coat is a pretty nice clear. Sprayed a 69 GTO with it a while back. Just a driver type job but laid down nice and cut and buffed nice.
Price is very reasonable.
All I have at the moment :dnc[/quote]
Traitor :cheers[/quote]
:blush: :blush: :p
I’ve been trying their solvent system for a little while now. Just here and there to see what it is about..mainly on lexus colors. It seems like a good line. They have a color system, variants, camera, etc…
The color variant system is much like BASF’s. I haven’t run into a problem where the color wasn’t blendable. Covers well and sprays nice. Their 8500 clear coat is a pretty nice clear. Sprayed a 69 GTO with it a while back. Just a driver type job but laid down nice and cut and buffed nice.
Price is very reasonable.
All I have at the moment :dnc
X2 on the sata 100b rp.
Same here, always used the rapid autocryl hardener even on all overs. I always used the extra slow activator when doing all overs in the summer here. From what I remember it is pretty fast with the rapid hardener and production/rapid activator. Been a while though :whistle: :p
link to tds: http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_357_english.pdf