jeremy bishop
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fuk you guys and your over priced POS sata guns :weights
w400
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[img]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/299219_237448536304972_598133933_n.jpg[/img]:whistle: :whistle: 😛
The fact that you say it is the best primer gun EVER and then say that the only other gun you’ve used for primer is a finishline, VOIDS any credibility to your opinion/statement. This is where the problem comes from.
It may very well be a nice primer gun and the best that YOU have used…but I have a sata that is almost 10 years old that still sprays primer well. Replaced the $10 distribution ring in it a few months ago. Will you be able to get 10 years out of that Sagola without having to replace a lot of parts? Maybe so..maybe not.
There are many CHEAPO guns out there that will spray primer nice and smooth….but you have to buy another one every couple of years or so if it sees a lot of use. Mine gets used just about every day.
The important part for primer is for it to be sprayed wet enough to fall into the scratches but not too wet to where you are flooding it on and not too dry where you are bridging the scratches. Flash times are very improtant also and vary with every primer and application. Laying it “like glass” doesn’t offer any advantage…..and many of the high viscosity primers are going to have a normal peel to them because of the amount of product you are applying.
I’ve been playing around with some of the pro spray since my jobber picked it up. Not a lot of experience with it but used the 8500 clear..it seems nice. Sprays nice and lays down nice. I compared WA177B Emerald Green with Sikkens AB+, Wanda solvent, and Prospray solvent. AB+ took about 4 coats for full coverage…Wanda 6 and the prospray about 6.5 over the black/white sprayouts. For color match they are all blendable on standard variants. Could have easily laid down some black, and blended it out in 2-3 coats with both wanda and prospray. Sprayed a lexus black 212 on a bumper, covered in 2 coats over gray and matched up well.
Limited experience…but haven’t seen anything negative with what I’ve used.
You got that link saved in a file? 😆 😆
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28971]There is always WA 258L or WA633H sunset orange metallic
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.reidonly.net/Z28/misc/kayla-camaro-07.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.reidonly.net/Z28/misc/&h=600&w=800&sz=124&tbnid=L7nI70mXhiEp4M:&tbnh=92&tbnw=122&zoom=1&usg=__RzioAypoO0FObHO_7w8E_ZZDV-k=&docid=JJGSJO7pNKpt9M&sa=X&ei=lcbPUMr7C-S6iwKh_ICoAg&ved=0CDkQ9QEwAQ&dur=411I don’t have the code but Lamborghini has a sweet orange also.[/quote]
I don’t see such a color in the pic you posted….. 😛
Nice work…and no joke about the “authenticity.”
Friend of mine just finished a resto on a 65 GTO Convertible and took it to a nationaly judged show. Docked 1 point because the carpet was cut the wrong way where it goes around the seat bracket mount to the floor. :blink:
Only point they docked him.
I like correctness to a point…but I’d rather improve upon what the factory did and do them the way I think they REALLY wanted them done. Of course though, I’ll do whatever the hell the customer says….with my input :p
x3 on the platinum. I’ve used the ultra and wasn’t impressed over the platinum. They performed very similar……but the cost difference was about $10. Platinum is cheaper, for me.
The dolphin glaze is a very nice glaze. I’ve been using the 3m platinum plus glaze lately and happy with it. Don’t think you can go wrong with either. Both are nice than evercoat metal glaze.
Another of a drift car done the same color in lesonal sb.
[img]https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/427050_501780566502785_2125438796_n.jpg[/img]
[img]https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/375609_501780549836120_76354039_n.jpg[/img]Shot this the original 1970 plum crazy in utech polybase. Pics are in the morning sun…
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b364/elitecustoms/P1110250.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b364/elitecustoms/P1110249.jpg[/IMG]You need to inspect every nook and crany and every square inch of the metal to make SURE there isn’t any surface rust..if there is remove it, obviously. Then degrease and apply the epoxy ASAP. Rust starts at the microscopic level…just because you can’t see it doesn’t mean it hasn’t already started.
Whatever your “paint guy” has been telling you, disregard it and I wouldn’ take the car to him or ever ask him for advice on paint/bodywork. Epoxy it now.
What were your post aircraft stipper prep procedures for the metal?
If it comes down to doing the whole car…getting back in touch with them would definitely be in order. Probably a tall order….
I forgot which clear..either ms 42 or 52. I know it wasn’t AG40.
LOL. Hey…he’s happy that’s all that matters 😆
I suppose….
Next door to me is a sign shop. They do a lot of the old school lettering.
